Ascents in Guillemot Ledge

First E1 – but felt more like HVS 5a/4c. A mini-epic, partner fell out of the beginning of the upper crack on p1, left hanging under the overhang unable to reach it. P1 fun, p2 a one-move pony – Rockfax says “bold” twice in the description of p2, which is twice too many.

Led the second pitch, wish i led the first.

Lovely warmup, best as one pitch

Combined into one. The sandy traverse was a bit hair raising, but a nice climb all round.

Climbed soaking wet. Was meaning to turn off onto tensor 2 but got carried away! Struggled to work out the roof crux in the wet, until my arms failed and I lowered off.

Climbed in rain with heavy pack. Couldn't figure out the roof crux move and after getting pumped out of my mind had to weight the rope to move out onto the face. Negotiating the chimney with a bag on was interesting!