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Morlais Quarries Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cualann Curon Matt Rees Gavin

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Morlais Quarries 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.779217, -3.381777

summary

Easy walk in.

description

Old limestone quarry, rock is generally good with some loose sections. Belays can be difficult and are often on stakes which should be backed up.

approach

Limited parking on the road next to the Aberglais pub. (speak to pub owners for permission to park in their car park). Short walk from here onto a large old stone Bridge, straight after crossing the bridge look left for a path leading through the woods up to the crag.

ethic

The place is a mess so please don't add to the waste. Look out for broken glass. If you can help clear some rubbish.

1.1. Lower Tier 0 routes in Cliff

1.2. Middle Tier 47 routes in Cliff

Summary:

1.2.1. Great Wall 18 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Old Friends

FA: 2001

VD Trad 13m
2 To The Batmobile HVS 5b Trad 15m
3 Grace Under Pressure E1 5b Trad 15m
4 Phobia E1 5b Trad 18m
5 The Rattling Finish E2 5c Trad 17m
6 Blade Runner E3 5c Trad 18m
7 Morlais in a Tramps Vest E5 6a Trad
8 Rogues Gallery E5 6b Trad 18m
9 No Mercy E6 6c Trad 21m
10 Partners in Crime E5 6c Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Fly Arete

Can be wet and muddy, wait until later for it to dry.

HS Trad
12 Massascent Groove VD Trad
13 Ledge Way VD Trad
14 Tiptoe S Trad
15 Spectacle S Trad
16 Serpant VD Trad
17 Lost Groove D Trad
18 Two Corners VD Trad

1.2.2. The Ramparts 3 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

description

Short easy climbs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dirty Corner D Trad
2 Sixties Groove VD Trad
3 Easy route M Trad

1.2.3. Castle Bay 7 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

summary

A great grag, some classic routes here.

description

Two faces here, one is the bulging cliff face and the other is a vertical slab with some crack lines.

approach

All climbs are approached the same. Ask permission from the pub owners if you park in the car park. Road parking available.

history

There's an old castle with some remains left intact on the top. The area is an old open mine.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Gold medal VS Trad 16m
2 Top Cat

Start in the wide crack, climb out and slightly left. Continue into the corner then top out.

S Trad 16m
3 Name Game HS Trad 16m
4 Great Corner

Obvious corner to the right, follow it all the way up on good gear and good holds.

S Trad 16m
5 Castle Wall

A well protected crack line slightly to the right of great corner. Can be started from the ledge at great corner for a easier start.

VS Trad 20m
6 Arisk

The next crack along from castle wall up the otherwise blank wall. Follow cracks to the top.

VS Trad
7 Wall Cracks

Final crack to the right on the blank wall.

HVS Trad

1.2.4. Windy Wall 19 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Griptight HS 4b Trad
2 Gripfix HS 4b Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Parting Company S Trad
4 Windy HVS 5a Trad
5 Pullover HVS 5a Trad
6 Breezing HVS 5b Trad
7 Overdrive E1 5a Trad
8 Oxo VS 4b Trad
9 Philanderer VS 4c Trad
10 Blue Buska E3 5c Trad
11 Grease Monkey VD Trad
12 Groovy S Trad
13 Pull Through S Trad
14 Blockhead S Trad
15 Tree Corner S Trad
16 Split Buttress VD Trad
17 Fork Left VS 4c Trad
18 Fork Right S 4a Trad
19 Sting VD Trad

1.3. Upper Tier 0 routes in Cliff

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
M Easy route Trad 1.2.2. The Ramparts
D Lost Groove Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Dirty Corner Trad 1.2.2. The Ramparts
VD Ledge Way Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Massascent Groove Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Old Friends Trad 13m 1.2.1. Great Wall
Serpant Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Two Corners Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Sixties Groove Trad 1.2.2. The Ramparts
Grease Monkey Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Split Buttress Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Sting Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
S 4a Fork Right Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
S Spectacle Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Tiptoe Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Great Corner Trad 16m 1.2.3. Castle Bay
Top Cat Trad 16m 1.2.3. Castle Bay
Blockhead Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Groovy Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Parting Company Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Pull Through Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Tree Corner Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
HS 4b Gripfix Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Griptight Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
HS Fly Arete Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
Name Game Trad 16m 1.2.3. Castle Bay
VS 4b Oxo Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
VS 4c Fork Left Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Philanderer Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
VS Arisk Trad 1.2.3. Castle Bay
Castle Wall Trad 20m 1.2.3. Castle Bay
Gold medal Trad 16m 1.2.3. Castle Bay
HVS 5a Pullover Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
Windy Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
HVS Wall Cracks Trad 1.2.3. Castle Bay
E1 5a Overdrive Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
HVS 5b To The Batmobile Trad 15m 1.2.1. Great Wall
Breezing Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
E1 5b Grace Under Pressure Trad 15m 1.2.1. Great Wall
Phobia Trad 18m 1.2.1. Great Wall
E2 5c The Rattling Finish Trad 17m 1.2.1. Great Wall
E3 5c Blade Runner Trad 18m 1.2.1. Great Wall
Blue Buska Trad 1.2.4. Windy Wall
E5 6a Morlais in a Tramps Vest Trad 1.2.1. Great Wall
E5 6b Rogues Gallery Trad 18m 1.2.1. Great Wall
E5 6c Partners in Crime Trad 18m 1.2.1. Great Wall
E6 6c No Mercy Trad 21m 1.2.1. Great Wall
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