A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Morlais Quarries
47 in Crag
- 1.1. Lower Tier 0 in Cliff
-
1.2.
Middle Tier 47 in Cliff
- 1.2.1. Great Wall 18 in Sector
- 1.2.2. The Ramparts 3 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Castle Bay 7 in Crag
- 1.2.4. Windy Wall 19 in Sector
- 1.3. Upper Tier 0 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Morlais Quarries 47 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.779217, -3.381777
summary
Easy walk in.
description
Old limestone quarry, rock is generally good with some loose sections. Belays can be difficult and are often on stakes which should be backed up.
approach
Limited parking on the road next to the Aberglais pub. (speak to pub owners for permission to park in their car park). Short walk from here onto a large old stone Bridge, straight after crossing the bridge look left for a path leading through the woods up to the crag.
ethic
The place is a mess so please don't add to the waste. Look out for broken glass. If you can help clear some rubbish.
1.1. Lower Tier 0 routes in Cliff
1.2. Middle Tier 47 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
1.2.1. Great Wall 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Old Friends
FA: 2001 | VD | 13m | |||||
2 | ★ To The Batmobile | HVS 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | Grace Under Pressure | E1 5b | 15m | |||||
4 | ★ Phobia | E1 5b | 18m | |||||
5 | ★ The Rattling Finish | E2 5c | 17m | |||||
6 | ★★ Blade Runner | E3 5c | 18m | |||||
7 | ★★ Morlais in a Tramps Vest | E5 6a | ||||||
8 | ★ Rogues Gallery | E5 6b | 18m | |||||
9 | ★ No Mercy | E6 6c | 21m | |||||
10 | ★★ Partners in Crime | E5 6c | 18m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Fly Arete
Can be wet and muddy, wait until later for it to dry. | HS | ||||||
12 | Massascent Groove | VD | ||||||
13 | Ledge Way | VD | ||||||
14 | Tiptoe | S | ||||||
15 | Spectacle | S | ||||||
16 | Serpant | VD | ||||||
17 | Lost Groove | D | ||||||
18 | Two Corners | VD |
1.2.2. The Ramparts 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Short easy climbs
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Dirty Corner | D | ||||
2 | Sixties Groove | VD | ||||
3 | Easy route | M |
1.2.3. Castle Bay 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
summary
A great grag, some classic routes here.
description
Two faces here, one is the bulging cliff face and the other is a vertical slab with some crack lines.
approach
All climbs are approached the same. Ask permission from the pub owners if you park in the car park. Road parking available.
history
There's an old castle with some remains left intact on the top. The area is an old open mine.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Gold medal | VS | 16m | |||||
2 |
Top Cat
Start in the wide crack, climb out and slightly left. Continue into the corner then top out. | S | 16m | |||||
3 | Name Game | HS | 16m | |||||
4 |
Great Corner
Obvious corner to the right, follow it all the way up on good gear and good holds. | S | 16m | |||||
5 |
Castle Wall
A well protected crack line slightly to the right of great corner. Can be started from the ledge at great corner for a easier start. | VS | 20m | |||||
6 |
Arisk
The next crack along from castle wall up the otherwise blank wall. Follow cracks to the top. | VS | ||||||
7 |
Wall Cracks
Final crack to the right on the blank wall. | HVS |
1.2.4. Windy Wall 19 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Griptight | HS 4b | ||||||
2 | Gripfix | HS 4b | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | Parting Company | S | ||||||
4 | Windy | HVS 5a | ||||||
5 | Pullover | HVS 5a | ||||||
6 | Breezing | HVS 5b | ||||||
7 | Overdrive | E1 5a | ||||||
8 | Oxo | VS 4b | ||||||
9 | Philanderer | VS 4c | ||||||
10 | Blue Buska | E3 5c | ||||||
11 | Grease Monkey | VD | ||||||
12 | Groovy | S | ||||||
13 | Pull Through | S | ||||||
14 | Blockhead | S | ||||||
15 | Tree Corner | S | ||||||
16 | Split Buttress | VD | ||||||
17 | Fork Left | VS 4c | ||||||
18 | Fork Right | S 4a | ||||||
19 | Sting | VD |