Showing all 13 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Alaska Seward Highway Goat's Head Soup | ||||||||
5.10b | ★ Goat's Head Soup | ★ Good | Fri 14th Apr 2006 | |||||
Nice little crack half way up makes the climb.
|
||||||||
5.10b | ★★ No Whiners | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Apr 2006 | |||||
This is a good climb. Use 24" slings on the first two bolts to reduce rope drag
|
||||||||
Alaska Seward Highway Sky Pilot | ||||||||
A3 | ★★★ Auto Pilot - with solo first ascent in 1993 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 16th Jul 2015 | |||||
Pretty cool aid route that uses hooks heads and tied off pins to traverse an almost horizontal roof to some ratty old button head bolts at the top. One may want to beef up rap anchor at top. A3 grade based on placement security but but it is pretty close to the ground and decking out is quite possible.
|
||||||||
Alaska Seward Highway Bermuda Triangle | ||||||||
5.3 | Easy Crack | Don't Bother | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Dirty and Dull
|
||||||||
Alaska Hatcher's Pass Archangel Valley The Monolith | ||||||||
5.9 | ★ Center Slab Left | ★ Good | Fri 1st Jul 2005 | |||||
I went a bought a cam just so I could climb this fun one without borrowing gear.
|
||||||||
Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Frances | ||||||||
Class 3/4 | East Ridge - with Adam Flower | 1100m | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
Yay a chill route with zero spindrift and lots of awesome views.
After this day, the wind changed to a hit-and-miss easterly flow and further climbs were abandoned in favour of card games and cool ski touring. |
||||||||
Alaska Denali National Park Ruth Gorge Mooses Tooth | ||||||||
WI5 M5/6 V | ★★★ Shaken Not Stirred - with Adam Flower | 900m | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
2am start under the northern lights illuminating the SE face of Denali and bouncing off the Ruth. Soon, the sunrise and simulblocks brought us to the route's crux, which Adam dispatched with style in desperately dry conditions.
Nick an JT met us there from above, and after hearing their description of deep, faceted wallowing to the col, we all agreed on going down. After a few "wish our ropes were 10m longer" moments, all 4 boys were swimming down afternoon slush towards lunch and a snooz. |
||||||||
WI4 M4 V | ★★★ Ham And Eggs - with Adam Flower | 970m | Mon 1st May 2023 | |||||
Hearing whispers that two other teams were starting early (and being thoroughly displeased with yesterday's iceblock shower), we had the ultimate Think Tank moment and decided to leave at 8pm.
For Adam, who is more used to both alpine climbing and sleep deprivation, this may have worked, but for me it was the start of a night of unravelling. Despite a strong start in perfect connies, the Donkey Boys were forced into a scary M4 variant due to spindrift on the ice crux. This lost us time, and fighting against the clock of sleep, my pace slowed and my eating stopped. At best I estimate to have consumed 900cals and 700mL of water on the way up. Having reached the col, this Donkey was beyond buggered and both Boys turned to rap the route in daylight. |
||||||||
Alaska Denali National Park Mt. Hunter | ||||||||
TD | ★★ West Ridge (W-ridge) - with T.Gustafsson | 2500m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 29th May 1992 | ||||
Alpine style ascent 7 days. Climbed as aclimatisation for Denali west rib ascent.
|
||||||||
Alaska Denali National Park Denali | ||||||||
5.8 5.8 AI4 | Cassin Ridge - with M. Holmgren, D. Bidner, N. Björnerstedt | 2500m | Thu 17th May 1990 | |||||
Alpine style 6 days on face
|
||||||||
AI3 | West Rib - with T. Gustafsson | 2800m | Sun 7th Jun 1992 | |||||
Alaska grade 4
|
||||||||
Class 3 to Class 4 | ★★★ West Buttress - with M. Holmgren, D. Bidner, N. Björnerstedt | 4000m | Tue 1st May 1990 | |||||
Aclimatisation for Cassin. Reached around 5900m
|
||||||||
Alaska The Arrigetch Peaks Shot/Battleship/Emmons Ridge Shot Tower | ||||||||
5.9 A2 5.9 A2 IV | West Ridge of Shot Tower - with john | 490m | Crap | Mon 27th Aug 2012 | ||||
TEst
|
Showing all 13 ascents.