★★★ Ham And Eggs WI4 M4 V

This uber-classic couloir route is the most crowded on the Tooth, and probably sits second in popularity within the Range only to the West Buttress of Denali.

Climb M3-AI3 and easy snow to a few crux options around 300m up. The FA variant through slabs and snow mushrooms is rarely done. Instead, chose between the left ice at WI4 (funnels sluff and spindrift) or the crack system at M4 on the right. Continue up moderate ice and snow to the col, where the fixed rap anchors disappear.

Move onwards over a corniced ridge to the summit.

The descent involves 20-22 rappels from the col, and bypasses the leftwards dogleg of the first pitch by rappelling straight down.