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Ascents in United States of America as sport by Gareth Llewellin

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 263 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Sat 5th Dec 2015 - San Luis Valley
English Valley
5.11d Big Monkey Left Sport 25m, 10 Classic
Classic climbing on slightly less than classic rock quality. Cool route.

 
5.12a Big Monkey Right Sport 25m, 11 Very Good
Fantastic jutting jugs in one section. Cool rock.

 
5.12c Chim Chim Sport 25m, 9 Classic
Great climbing. The feet get pretty bad for a while right when you don't want them to.

 
5.12b Me Tarzan Sport 25m, 11 Classic
Seemed trickier than the other routes here. I had to hang on and figure a couple of sections out.

 
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
The North Forty
5.10d 5.10c Crimp Scampi Sport 15m Very Good
Two thin sections.

 
5.9 Leonid Sport 17m Good
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
The North Forty Circus Walls
5.12a Fat Hand Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Boulder problem and then still sustained until the angle eases.

 
5.12c Corn Grinder Sport 21m, 9 Very Good
Not exactly sustained but good quality. Steeper than it looked.

 
5.9 Dancing Outlaw Sport 21m Very Good
Long and steep and diagonal. A 5.9 with perma-draws!

 
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
The North Forty
5.9 The Controversy Sport 20m Good
Cool arete

 
5.9 Strongman Sport 17m Very Good
5.8 The Greatest Show on Earth Sport 17m Very Good
5.8 African Herbman Sport 15m Very Good
5.10b Adult Supervision Sport 12m Good
Unfortunately the harder bit id too short

 
5.9 Smooth Criminal Sport 12m Good
5.9 Mefloquine Dreams Sport 13m Good
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
The North Forty Circus Walls
5.12- Lavender Eye Sport 18m, 8 Good
Missed the heel hook the first time

 
5.9 Green Goblin Sport 18m, 8 Good
5.10a Ace in the Hole Sport 19m Good
5.11+ Trapeze Artist Sport Average
Only one super hard bit and the top is too easy.

 
5.11 Big Top Sport Very Good
Great! Sustained goodness

 
Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall
5.11a Methane Rising Sport 15m, 3 Good
pretty friendly apart from one move (which is still pretty friendly)

 
5.10d Return of the Manimal Sport 26m, 10 Classic
This one is a winner! The rock quality deteriorates slightly up higher but not too badly.

 
5.11a Critters on the Cliff Sport 23m, 9 Very Good
The routes on this wall are great fun. Long moves on mostly big holds

 
5.10a Rat Stew Sport 23m, 9 Classic
Interesting moves and a bit longer than other walls around. I can see why this place gets so rammed.

 
Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Muir Valley Sunnyside
5.10b Machete Sport 20m, 7 Good
5.11b Weed Eater Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
a few hard sections separated by big rests. Not that impressed with this wall

 
5.9 Kokopeli's Dream Sport 12m, 4 Good
a bit slopey and then a lot easier

 
5.12a Suppress The Rage Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Slipped off at the start

 
5.10c Some Humans Ain't Human Sport 15m, 5 Good
Thu 26th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag
5.12a Primus Noctum Sport 23m, 8 Classic
Great big runout through the crux. You could take an 8-10m whip if you were too pumped to clip the anchor

 
5.11c Spirit Fingers Sport 21m, 7 Mega Classic
Great crimp plates and then big moves on bigger holds.

 
5.10b Slick and the 9mm Sport 18m, 9 Very Good
Pretty steep in one bit. Better than I thought it would be.

 
5.12a Extra Backup Sport 21m, 6 Very Good
Would be more classic without the rest bit would also be harder! The start is thin.

 
5.12b Whipper Snapper Sport 24m, 9 Classic
Very close to the onsight but foot slipped at the end of the boulder problem. Pretty hard for the grade.

 
Tue 24th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Fern Buttress Thieves Area
5.12b Thieves In The Temple Sport 24m, 8 Mega Classic
Has it all! Starts with a mini roof, then long moves on good holds, then a crimp rail, then great face climbing topped by a mantle. Very sustained apart from one rest jug. Really classic.

 
Mon 23rd Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress
5.12a Team Machine Sport 21m Classic
Fantastic rock.

 
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Endless Wall Diamond Point
5.10b Strike a Scowl Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
5.12a Fine Motor Control Sport 26m Very Good
Great rock and nice climbing. If the first third (ie the crux) was at the top it would be more classic. Still worthwhile I thought.

 
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Endless Wall Fantasy Area
5.12b Blackhappy Sport 26m, 9 Mega Classic
So classic! Exciting finish.

 
5.11c Aesthetica Sport 26m, 8 Mega Classic
Perfect rock. It's like someone designed it! A couple of the slopers had never seen a brush!

 
Wed 18th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Beauty Mountain The Brain
5.9 You Want It, You Got It Sport 20m Very Good
5.10b 5.10c Brain Tweezers Sport 20m, 5 Very Good
Onteresting moves. Makes you think.

 
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge
Junkyard Junkyard Wall
5.11b Reachers Of Habit Sport 15m Very Good
Bouldery bits in between good footholds.

 
Sun 15th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Natural Bridge Region Lady Slipper Emerald City
5.11b Lollipop Kids Sport 21m, 7 Good
Only hard at the start then much easier.

 
5.11c Oz Sport 21m, 6 Good
5.10c Diamond in the Rough Sport 24m, 7 Classic
5.11a Ruby Slippers Sport 21m, 6 Very Good
5.11d 5.11c Flying Monkeys Sport 21m, 5 Very Good
One desperate bit! Used to be 12a.

 
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve The Infirmary
5.11a Porphyria Sport 18m, 5 Very Good
Pumpy for a short thing. Why bolt new routes with non stainless hardware? We've seen routes REbolted here with gold passivated bolts! I don't get it.

 
5.10b Aquagenic Urticaria Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
5.12b Ebola Sport 21m, 7 Classic
One fall at the crux putting on the draws. I only just squeaked through the lower crux and then was gassed, end of the day.

 
5.11d Trephination Sport 26m, 9 Mega Classic
Great route. Super steep (for me anyway) and continuous. Pumpy plus.

 
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Natural Bridge Region Lady Slipper Global Village
5.10d Circa Man Sport 18m, 5 Very Good
Interesting footwork for a change.

 
5.11c Out For Justice Sport 20m, 8 Very Good
Reachy crux down low and a couple of goey sections. Good route.

 
5.11c Down By Law Sport 20m, 8 Good
Feels like a high chance of breaking one of the million crimps on this.

 
5.6 Eureka Sport 26m, 8 Very Good
A slab with jugs!

 
5.10a Kentucky Pinstripe Sport 24m Very Good
Not that sustained unfortunately. Nice position.

 
Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag
5.10b Make a Wish Sport 23m, 8 Very Good
5.13a Easy Rider Sport 30m, 12 Classic
Classy route. Steep and long. Flashed to the crux but that's pretty low. Managed all the sections without any trouble but linking it all would need some fitness...

 
5.10c Layback & Groove (Payback & Groove) Sport 15m Good
5.12a Hakuna Matata Sport 26m, 9 Classic
Nice sequencey crimps in parts and some finger locks.

 
5.10c A Wave New Wolrd Sport 15m, 8 Good
Mon 9th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls
5.9 Wadcutter Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
5.8 Dream of a Bee Sport 14m, 6 Good
5.12b Big Money Grip Sport 21m, 7 Classic
Fell off the last hard move putting the draws on but didn't have another go. I need a rest day

 
5.11d Recoil Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
5.11b Reciever Sport 20m, 8 Classic
Found this one harder than the 11c next door, the bottom crux anyway. Might've been because it was the last route of the day.

 
5.11c Centerfire Sport 23m, 8 Classic
Cool continuous climbing. This wall is fantastic.

 
5.11a Bandolier Sport 21m, 7 Classic
Nice steep finish on huge holds.

 
Sun 8th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector
5.10a The Decline of Western Civilization Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
5.11b Mona Lisa Overdrive Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
5.12a 5.11d Buddha Hole Sport 23m, 8 Classic
Sun 8th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Crossroads
5.10b A1A Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
5.10d Yell Fire! Sport 24m, 10 Very Good
5.11c Severn Bore Sport 18m, 7 Good
No chalk no draws. What's going on? Desperate for one move.

 
5.10c Banjolero Sport 20m, 7 Very Good
5.8 Deeznuts Sport 18m, 6 Good
5.12a Jingus Khan Sport 21m, 8 Very Good
Climbs better than it looks.

 
Fri 6th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag
5.12a Naked Lunch Sport 24m, 8 Classic
Not too bad to the crux. Classic plates just like its neighbours.

 
5.10d Breakfast Burrito Sport 24m, 10 Very Good
Cool steep arête on big holds to finish

 
5.12a Check Your Grip Sport 24m, 7 Mega Classic
Nice and pumpy. Happily, I got it back at the jug.

 
5.11a Whipstocking Sport 24m, 8 Mega Classic
Fantastic long moves and good holds and steel. Really great.

 
5.11b Yada Yada Yada Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Interesting arête move. The holds face the wrong way in one section.

 
5.10d Fire and Brimstone Sport 27m, 10 Classic
So much chalk and rubber. And I can see why.

 
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls
5.10d It's Alive Sport 17m, 8 Very Good
Pretty wet in spots and felt hard

 
5.12a Us and Them Sport 21m, 7 Classic
Messed up the sequence and was too pumped to reverse. Second go.

 
5.10d Pocket Pussy Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
5.11d Sex Show Sport 15m, 5 Classic
Nearly fell off the start. Pretty continuous.

 
5.11d Sport for Brains Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
Sort of like steep monkey bars. Great fun at the end of the day.

 
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Bob Marley Crag
5.11c Crosley Sport 24m, 8 Classic
Fantastic hero climbing. Steep arête on big holds to finish. So good.

 
5.11a Toker Sport 21m, 8 Classic
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Motherlode
5.12a Chainsaw Massacre Sport 18m, 7 Classic
Very pumpy. Missed an obvious hold and pumped out putting the draws on but got it second go. Redpoint crux is clipping the chains.

 
5.12a Burlier's Bane Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
This one's actually pretty good. Bigger holds in general than chainsaw.

 
5.11a Ben Sport 18m, 6 Very Good
Great rock and holds and moves. Only let down is its too easy to half height.

 
Sun 1st Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge
Natural Bridge Region The Zoo
5.12a Scar Tissue Sport 14m, 5 Classic
Wet but great.

 
5.11b Cannon Ball Sport 24m, 8 Good
Wet and dirty

 
5.11b Animal Husbandry Sport 27m, 9 Very Good
5.11c Hippopotomoose Sport 24m, 8 Classic
Great but wet.

 
Fri 30th Oct 2015 - Red River Gorge
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Playground
5.10a Monkey Bars Sport 15m Very Good
Felt solid for 10a

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 263 ascents.

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