Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sat 5th Dec 2015 - San Luis Valley | ||||||
English Valley | ||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Big Monkey Left | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classic climbing on slightly less than classic rock quality. Cool route.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Big Monkey Right | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Fantastic jutting jugs in one section. Cool rock.
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Chim Chim | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great climbing. The feet get pretty bad for a while right when you don't want them to.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★ Me Tarzan | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Seemed trickier than the other routes here. I had to hang on and figure a couple of sections out.
|
||||||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty | ||||||
5.10d 5.10c | ★★★ Crimp Scampi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two thin sections.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Leonid | 17m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty Circus Walls | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Fat Hand | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Boulder problem and then still sustained until the angle eases.
|
||||||
5.12c | ★★ Corn Grinder | 21m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not exactly sustained but good quality. Steeper than it looked.
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Dancing Outlaw | 21m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Long and steep and diagonal. A 5.9 with perma-draws!
|
||||||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Controversy | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Cool arete
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Strongman | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ The Greatest Show on Earth | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ African Herbman | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b | ★ Adult Supervision | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Unfortunately the harder bit id too short
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Smooth Criminal | 12m | ★ Good | |||
5.9 | ★ Mefloquine Dreams | 13m | ★ Good | |||
Tue 1st Dec 2015 - Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||||||
The North Forty Circus Walls | ||||||
5.12- | ★★ Lavender Eye | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Missed the heel hook the first time
|
||||||
5.9 | ★★ Green Goblin | 18m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
5.10a | ★ Ace in the Hole | 19m | ★ Good | |||
5.11+ | Trapeze Artist | Average | ||||
Only one super hard bit and the top is too easy.
|
||||||
5.11 | ★★ Big Top | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great! Sustained goodness
|
||||||
Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | ||||||
5.11a | ★ Methane Rising | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
pretty friendly apart from one move (which is still pretty friendly)
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This one is a winner! The rock quality deteriorates slightly up higher but not too badly.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ Critters on the Cliff | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The routes on this wall are great fun. Long moves on mostly big holds
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Interesting moves and a bit longer than other walls around. I can see why this place gets so rammed.
|
||||||
Fri 27th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Muir Valley Sunnyside | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Machete | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Weed Eater | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
a few hard sections separated by big rests. Not that impressed with this wall
|
||||||
5.9 | ★ Kokopeli's Dream | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
a bit slopey and then a lot easier
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Suppress The Rage | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Slipped off at the start
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ Some Humans Ain't Human | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 26th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Primus Noctum | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great big runout through the crux. You could take an 8-10m whip if you were too pumped to clip the anchor
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Spirit Fingers | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great crimp plates and then big moves on bigger holds.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Slick and the 9mm | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty steep in one bit. Better than I thought it would be.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Extra Backup | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Would be more classic without the rest bit would also be harder! The start is thin.
|
||||||
5.12b | ★★ Whipper Snapper | 24m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very close to the onsight but foot slipped at the end of the boulder problem. Pretty hard for the grade.
|
||||||
Tue 24th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Fern Buttress Thieves Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Has it all! Starts with a mini roof, then long moves on good holds, then a crimp rail, then great face climbing topped by a mantle. Very sustained apart from one rest jug. Really classic.
|
||||||
Mon 23rd Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Team Machine | 21m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic rock.
|
||||||
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.12a | ★★ Fine Motor Control | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great rock and nice climbing. If the first third (ie the crux) was at the top it would be more classic. Still worthwhile I thought.
|
||||||
Sat 21st Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Blackhappy | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
So classic! Exciting finish.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Aesthetica | 26m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Perfect rock. It's like someone designed it!
A couple of the slopers had never seen a brush!
|
||||||
Wed 18th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | ||||||
5.9 | ★ You Want It, You Got It | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10b 5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Onteresting moves. Makes you think.
|
||||||
Tue 17th Nov 2015 - New River Gorge | ||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Reachers Of Habit | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Bouldery bits in between good footholds.
|
||||||
Sun 15th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Lady Slipper Emerald City | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Lollipop Kids | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Only hard at the start then much easier.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Oz | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.10c | ★★ Diamond in the Rough | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
5.11a | ★★ Ruby Slippers | 21m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11d 5.11c | ★★ Flying Monkeys | 21m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One desperate bit! Used to be 12a.
|
||||||
Sat 14th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Miller Fork Recreational Preserve The Infirmary | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ Porphyria | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pumpy for a short thing. Why bolt new routes with non stainless hardware? We've seen routes REbolted here with gold passivated bolts! I don't get it.
|
||||||
5.10b | ★ Aquagenic Urticaria | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.12b | ★★★ Ebola | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
One fall at the crux putting on the draws. I only just squeaked through the lower crux and then was gassed, end of the day.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Trephination | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Great route. Super steep (for me anyway) and continuous. Pumpy plus.
|
||||||
Fri 13th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Lady Slipper Global Village | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ Circa Man | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting footwork for a change.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Out For Justice | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Reachy crux down low and a couple of goey sections. Good route.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★ Down By Law | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Feels like a high chance of breaking one of the million crimps on this.
|
||||||
5.6 | ★★ Eureka | 26m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
A slab with jugs!
|
||||||
5.10a | ★★ Kentucky Pinstripe | 24m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Not that sustained unfortunately. Nice position.
|
||||||
Thu 12th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.10b | ★ Make a Wish | 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.13a | ★★★ Easy Rider | 30m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Classy route. Steep and long. Flashed to the crux but that's pretty low. Managed all the sections without any trouble but linking it all would need some fitness...
|
||||||
5.10c | ★ Layback & Groove (Payback & Groove) | 15m | ★ Good | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 26m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice sequencey crimps in parts and some finger locks.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★ A Wave New Wolrd | 15m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 9th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Wadcutter | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★ Dream of a Bee | 14m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.12b | ★★ Big Money Grip | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fell off the last hard move putting the draws on but didn't have another go. I need a rest day
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Found this one harder than the 11c next door, the bottom crux anyway. Might've been because it was the last route of the day.
|
||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Centerfire | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Cool continuous climbing. This wall is fantastic.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Bandolier | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nice steep finish on huge holds.
|
||||||
Sun 8th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Solar Collector | ||||||
5.10a | ★ The Decline of Western Civilization | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11b | ★★ Mona Lisa Overdrive | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.12a 5.11d | ★★ Buddha Hole | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Sun 8th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Coal Bank Hollow Crossroads | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ A1A | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.10d | ★★ Yell Fire! | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11c | ★★ Severn Bore | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
No chalk no draws. What's going on? Desperate for one move.
|
||||||
5.10c | ★★ Banjolero | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.8 | ★★ Deeznuts | 18m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
5.12a | ★★ Jingus Khan | 21m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Climbs better than it looks.
|
||||||
Fri 6th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Drive-By Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Naked Lunch | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Not too bad to the crux. Classic plates just like its neighbours.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Breakfast Burrito | 24m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool steep arête on big holds to finish
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Check Your Grip | 24m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Nice and pumpy. Happily, I got it back at the jug.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Whipstocking | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
Fantastic long moves and good holds and steel. Really great.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Yada Yada Yada | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Interesting arête move. The holds face the wrong way in one section.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★★ Fire and Brimstone | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
So much chalk and rubber. And I can see why.
|
||||||
Thu 5th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region Torrent Falls | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ It's Alive | 17m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty wet in spots and felt hard
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Us and Them | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Messed up the sequence and was too pumped to reverse. Second go.
|
||||||
5.10d | ★★ Pocket Pussy | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11d | ★★ Sex Show | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Nearly fell off the start. Pretty continuous.
|
||||||
5.11d | ★★ Sport for Brains | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sort of like steep monkey bars. Great fun at the end of the day.
|
||||||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Bob Marley Crag | ||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Crosley | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Fantastic hero climbing. Steep arête on big holds to finish. So good.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★★ Toker | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wed 4th Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Bald Rock Recreational Preserve (BRRP) The Motherlode | ||||||
5.12a | ★★ Chainsaw Massacre | 18m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Very pumpy. Missed an obvious hold and pumped out putting the draws on but got it second go. Redpoint crux is clipping the chains.
|
||||||
5.12a | ★★ Burlier's Bane | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This one's actually pretty good. Bigger holds in general than chainsaw.
|
||||||
5.11a | ★★ Ben | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great rock and holds and moves. Only let down is its too easy to half height.
|
||||||
Sun 1st Nov 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Natural Bridge Region The Zoo | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Wet but great.
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Cannon Ball | 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Wet and dirty
|
||||||
5.11b | ★★ Animal Husbandry | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Hippopotomoose | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Great but wet.
|
||||||
Fri 30th Oct 2015 - Red River Gorge | ||||||
Southern Region Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) Sore Heel Hollow The Playground | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Monkey Bars | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Felt solid for 10a
|