Ascents in United States of America as Onsight by Steve Foy

No super obvious crux, important pockets and underclings, gets pumpy. Awesome!

Flipping out of the OW section was the crux of the route, but I thought the super bomber hand and finger jams made the route pretty darn cool. Placements were much better, but I still noticed significant mental blocks throughout the climb. Placed blue and gold stoppers at the bottom of the OW section, followed by purple, green, silver, and maybe even gold camalots.

Placed only 3 pieces on the first pitch, as I kept wasting time and effort screwing around with those darn hexes. It turned out that I only placed #2,3,4 camalots. Dan led the second pitch. I should have set up the first pitch belay anchors a little cleaner, utilizing the mimalist method of clipping in with the rope direct to save on slings that Dan could have used on the second pitch.

Good red river gorge overhanging pump fest. I wouldn't say this was 10c though, book lists it I think more correctly as 10a. Anywho, I went into this climb not looking to onsight, but it just went so smoothly and with good technique that I was able to take advantage of good form and breathing control.

Hardest part of this route and Moonbeam was trying to find what you wanted to use, as the holds were really hard to see due to the bulgy nature of the rock and the plethora of pockets. Breathing and focus was really good throughout the two routes.

Fun, very small and crimpy, pretty damn sharp too!

Awesome route, but long and commiting as shit for me. Placed almost my entire rack but for nuts and tricams, still was run out though. Really freaked me out like 50-75 feet of C crack traverse. Anchors for the first belay are way the hell up there. Lots of pretty good hexes in camming mode. Not 100% confident in them though, but I wouldn't have been able to climb and protect it otherwise. Was so intent on keeping the #3 camalot on my rack for up top that I never placed it, which was pretty stupid on my part as it would have given me huge piece of mind. Also, instead of rapping off of the tree, I would prefer to rap off the first anchor, would be much safer.

Juggy, a little balancy for a 5.7. Pretty good warmup to the trip.

Meh, reminded me of a juggy sport route more than anything else. Not the coolest route of the day, I much preferred the earlier trad lines to this type of climbing.

Pretty cool, had to climb through nest of bugs, parts of crack were wet, mossy wetness up top was less than stellar. Only trad lead of the day, pretty much made my day.

Last climb of the day, really took it out of me. Especially the off-width crack section near the top.

Great route! Massive anchor bolt hangers, although they could use a screw link to lower rope friction when pulling it back through post rappell.

Really weird, long route. It starts with stemming in this really narrow hallway, and then wanders all over the main face. Cool though.

Really cool crack system that you shimmy up