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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Dane Evans Zhiqi STEPHEN Hadik Scott Johnson Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns Brian Tessier Stephen Varney jordan wood

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Castle Rock 90 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.979380, -105.455064

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The North Face is a series of ledges split by class 4 that will take you to the top of the castle

2 North Face 5.0 Trad

Routes start on the west face, starting just above the road

4 West Face 5.5 Trad
5 Big Deal Pinnacle 5.9 Trad
6 Poyester Leisure Suit 5.11a Unknown
7 Times Past 5.9 Trad
8 Another Roadside Attraction 5.10 Unknown
9 Skunk Crack 5.9 Trad
10 Comeback Crack 5.10c Trad
11 Storming the Castle

The line of bolts between Comeback Crack and Curving Crack. A wire/small cam is advised for below the 1st bolt.

5.11c Sport 36ft
12 Curving Crack 5.9 Trad
13 Invisble Idiot 5.9 Trad
14 Bailey's Overhang 5.8 Trad
15 Dead Mouse Traverse 5.10 Unknown
16 The Final Exam 5.11a Trad
17 Pass/Fail Option 5.11a Trad
18 E-Z Action 5.9 Trad
19 Coffin Crack 5.10b Trad
20 The By Gully 5.9 Trad

The large roof is home to a few hard routes, although more routinely aided.

22 Aid Roof / Headline

Also climbs as C1 in Aid.

5.14c Sport
23 The Campaigner 5.12c Trad
24 Rebellion 5.12b Trad
25 Victim Of Circumstance 5.13d Trad
26 Ground Zero 5.13d Unknown
27 Crank It / Slabio

FA: Jerry Moffat

5.13c Sport 3
28 Nuclear Winter 5.12b Sport
29 Cussin' Crack 5.7 Trad
30 Cadaver Crack 5.11a Trad
31 Sticky Fingers 5.10d Unknown
32 Western Pleasure 5.11a Unknown
33 Jackson's Wall 5.6 Trad
34 Jackson's Wall Direct 5.9 Trad 3
35 Acrobat's Overhang 5.12 Unknown
36 Circadian Rhythms 5.9 Trad
37 Tongo 5.11a Trad
38 Tongo Direct Start 5.8 Trad
39 After Forever 5.11c Unknown
40 Endangered 5.10 Unknown
41 Atlas Shrugged 5.11d Trad
42 Black Crack 5.9 Trad
43 Gill Crack 5.12a Trad
44 The Sting 5.11 Trad
45 Alien Sex Toy 5.13a Sport
46 Close To The Edge 5.12b Sport
47 Boot Lead 5.12a Trad
48 South Face 5.9 Trad
49 Knight With The Shining Stick A4 Aid
50 Corinthian Vine 5.12d Unknown
51 Never A Dull Moment 5.12a Trad
52 Athlete's Feat

Start a few meters left of country club, at the pointy rock. Tend left up the crackline after the initial hard slab

5.11a Trad 260ft
53 Englishman's Home 5.11c Trad
54 Country Club Crack

Start up the blank slab just before the bridge before following the obvious cracks to the top

5.11c Trad 200ft, 2
55 Spin Off 5.11c Unknown
56 Domestic Abuse 5.12a Unknown

The following routes are further around to the right and are generally approached across the water

58 Tourist's Extravagance 5.13a Sport
59 Radio Andromeda 5.11b Unknown
60 First Movement 5.10 Unknown
61 Route 66 5.8 Trad
63 Left of Acro V0+ Boulder
64 The Acro-Ace V4 Boulder
65 Altered-Acro V6 Boulder
66 The Acro-Aerial V7 Boulder
67 Acro-Aerial Sit V8 Boulder
68 Acrobatic Overhang V5 Boulder
69 Citadel V1 V1 Boulder
70 Hit Hard Tactics V7 Boulder
71 One V9 Boulder
72 Smokey the Bandit V8 Boulder
73 The Citadel V8 Boulder
74 The Flow V8 Boulder
75 Free Range V13 Boulder
76 Cage Free V11 Boulder
77 Surface Tension V10 Boulder
78 Midnight Express V14 Boulder
79 Trainspotting V12 R Boulder
80 Hardbboiled V9/10 Boulder
81 The Replacement Killers V10/11 Boulder
82 Nintendo V4 Boulder

1.1. Wild West 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.979441, -105.454927

description

the short cliff on the north east side of Castle Rock

approach

From the base of the North Route, head around the cliff to the left to find yourself on a large sloping terrace

descent notes

mostly rap anchors

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Born to be Wild

FA: Bob Horan, 2011

5.11 Mixed trad 7
2 Wild Side

FA: Bob Horan, 2011

5.12c/d Sport
3 Wild Dog

FA: Bob Horan, 2011

5.10 Trad
4 Into the Wild

FA: Bob Horan, 2012

5.12d Mixed trad 6
5 Wild Way

FA: Bob Horan & John Baldwin, 2011

5.11 Mixed trad 5
6 Wild Thing

FA: Bob Horan & John Baldwin, 2011

5.11 Mixed trad 5
7 Wild Child SportProject
8 Wild Fire

FA: John Baldwin & Bob Horan, 2011

5.12 Sport
9 Garden Party

FA: Bob Horan, 2011

5.10d Mixed trad 4
10 Wild One SportProject
11 Wild Horses

FA: Bruno Hache & Ron Olsen, 2008

5.11 Mixed trad 3
12 Wild Man 5.12a Trad
13 Wild Flowers

FA: Bob Horan & C.Simon, 2011

5.11 Mixed trad 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.0 North Face Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.5 West Face Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.6 Jackson's Wall Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.7 Cussin' Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.8 Bailey's Overhang Trad 1. Castle Rock
Route 66 Trad 1. Castle Rock
Tongo Direct Start Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.9 Big Deal Pinnacle Trad 1. Castle Rock
Black Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
Circadian Rhythms Trad 1. Castle Rock
Curving Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
E-Z Action Trad 1. Castle Rock
Invisble Idiot Trad 1. Castle Rock
Jackson's Wall Direct Trad 3 1. Castle Rock
Skunk Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
South Face Trad 1. Castle Rock
The By Gully Trad 1. Castle Rock
Times Past Trad 1. Castle Rock
V0+ Left of Acro Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.10b Coffin Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
V1 Citadel V1 Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.10c Comeback Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.10 Another Roadside Attraction Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Dead Mouse Traverse Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Endangered Unknown 1. Castle Rock
First Movement Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Wild Dog Trad 1.1. Wild West
5.10d Sticky Fingers Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Garden Party Mixed trad 4 1.1. Wild West
5.11a Athlete's Feat Trad 260ft 1. Castle Rock
Cadaver Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
Pass/Fail Option Trad 1. Castle Rock
Poyester Leisure Suit Unknown 1. Castle Rock
The Final Exam Trad 1. Castle Rock
Tongo Trad 1. Castle Rock
Western Pleasure Unknown 1. Castle Rock
5.11b Radio Andromeda Unknown 1. Castle Rock
5.11c After Forever Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Country Club Crack Trad 200ft, 2 1. Castle Rock
Englishman's Home Trad 1. Castle Rock
Spin Off Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Storming the Castle Sport 36ft 1. Castle Rock
5.11 The Sting Trad 1. Castle Rock
Born to be Wild Mixed trad 7 1.1. Wild West
Wild Flowers Mixed trad 2 1.1. Wild West
Wild Horses Mixed trad 3 1.1. Wild West
Wild Thing Mixed trad 5 1.1. Wild West
Wild Way Mixed trad 5 1.1. Wild West
5.11d Atlas Shrugged Trad 1. Castle Rock
V4 Nintendo Boulder 1. Castle Rock
The Acro-Ace Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.12a Boot Lead Trad 1. Castle Rock
Domestic Abuse Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Gill Crack Trad 1. Castle Rock
Never A Dull Moment Trad 1. Castle Rock
Wild Man Trad 1.1. Wild West
5.12b Close To The Edge Sport 1. Castle Rock
Nuclear Winter Sport 1. Castle Rock
Rebellion Trad 1. Castle Rock
V5 Acrobatic Overhang Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.12c The Campaigner Trad 1. Castle Rock
5.12 Acrobat's Overhang Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Wild Fire Sport 1.1. Wild West
V6 Altered-Acro Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.12c/d Wild Side Sport 1.1. Wild West
5.12d Corinthian Vine Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Into the Wild Mixed trad 6 1.1. Wild West
V7 Hit Hard Tactics Boulder 1. Castle Rock
The Acro-Aerial Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.13a Alien Sex Toy Sport 1. Castle Rock
Tourist's Extravagance Sport 1. Castle Rock
V8 Acro-Aerial Sit Boulder 1. Castle Rock
Smokey the Bandit Boulder 1. Castle Rock
The Citadel Boulder 1. Castle Rock
The Flow Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.13c Crank It Sport 3 1. Castle Rock
V9 One Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.13d Ground Zero Unknown 1. Castle Rock
Victim Of Circumstance Trad 1. Castle Rock
V9/10 Hardbboiled Boulder 1. Castle Rock
V10 Surface Tension Boulder 1. Castle Rock
V10/11 The Replacement Killers Boulder 1. Castle Rock
V11 Cage Free Boulder 1. Castle Rock
5.14c Aid Roof Sport 1. Castle Rock
V12 R Trainspotting Boulder 1. Castle Rock
V13 Free Range Boulder 1. Castle Rock
V14 Midnight Express Boulder 1. Castle Rock
? Wild Child SportProject 1.1. Wild West
Wild One SportProject 1.1. Wild West
A4 Knight With The Shining Stick Aid 1. Castle Rock
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