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Nodes in Calaveras Dome Area

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Showing all 86 nodes.

Node
Calaveras Dome Area

Some big, lesser known domes.

Calaveras Dome

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome
North Face Apron

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome North Face Apron
5.10d Finger Of God

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10c/d Fallen Angel

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10+ Backslider

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.7 Botanical Gardens

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a A0 R Medicine Man

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11b Shaman

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.8 Layin' On The Hands

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.12d Whales Tale

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Fist Fight

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10c R Beacons To Mars

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10d PG13 Sole Sacrifice

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a PG13 Lightning Bolt

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b R Thunderbolt

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.9 Old Smokey

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome
Central Dome

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome Central Dome
5.10c Green Sponge

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11c PG13 Tsunami

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a PG13 Vaya Con Pollos

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b PG13 Wall Of The Worlds

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome
Northeast Face

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Calaveras Dome Northeast Face
5.11c Fine Line

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Mighty Joe Young

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a King Kong

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Totally Buzzed

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.12 A1 - 2 Banzai

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10d The Emerald

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10d Rainbows End

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Orphan Train

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11c/d PG13 Resurrection

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.12a Free Fallling

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Mr. Stiffy

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10c Schizophrenic Dike

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11d Laughing Hyena

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.9 Blockhead

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b R Eraserhead

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11 Silk Road

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11c R Karakoram Highway

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.12 PG13 Fault Line

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.9 Sands Of Time

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Hidden Dome

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Hidden Dome
North Face

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Hidden Dome North Face
5.11a Sharp Shooter

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Finders Keepers

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Hammer Dome

Home to several moderate classics, and while popular by Calaveras Dome standards, you can often have the dome to yourself.

Clint Cummins has a topo of the most popular section of the dome here: http://web.stanford.edu/~clint/caldomes/gullycat.pdf

Hammer Dome
To access all the routes right of and including 'Smoke Screen', scramble straight up where the aqued

To access all the routes right of and including 'Smoke Screen', scramble straight up where the aqueduct enters the dome to the highest ledge with trees. You'll arrive at the base of 'Smoke Screen'.

5.7 Wings and Stings

Major right facing corner on the right hand side of the dome.

5.10c R Smoke Screen

Slab route to the right of Gemini Cracks, and also the rappel descent for that and nearby routes.

  1. 30m 5.10a. Up the blocky corner (watch out for wasps), and up a tricky laybacking section to the roof. Traverse right under the roof until below the first bolt. Pull over the roof, clip the bolt then up the slab (2nd bolt) to a hanging belay on chains.

  2. 30m 5.10c. Up a well protected face past 7 bolts to another hanging belay on chains. Can rappel to the ground from here on double 60m ropes.

  3. 15m 5.10a. Short pitch past 3 bolts to hanging belay on chains. Can be linked with P4.

  4. 30m 5.10b/c. As for 'Gemini Cracks' P4, but using the right hand crack only - a bit contrived, but awesome nonetheless (take lots of finger-size gear). Shared belay on chains.

  5. 30m 5.10a R. Cross over Gemini Cracks (which goes right at this point) and trend slightly left up the face above, passing spaced bolts. 2 bolt anchor.

Rappel the route with double ropes (60m recommended).

To access 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' and routes to the left, head down from where the aqueduct ent

To access 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' and routes to the left, head down from where the aqueduct enters the tunnel.

5.7 Gemini Cracks Direct Start

To get to the start, look for a ledge system about 50' down from the aqueduct, under a large oak tree, and follow it past a step-across until you're below the obvious slab with bolts.

Cruxy start with mediocre small gear (can be avoided via the chossy trench on the right), to pleasant slab climbing past 5 bolts and a variety of small to mid-size gear to join the original route at the first belay (natural anchor).

Much better than the original P1.

5.8 A0 Gemini Cracks

A classic! Pitch 4 is the money pitch, with a superb moderate crack way up in the sky.

The best way to do this route is to link 'Gemini Cracks Direct Start' into P2 of 'Gemini Cracks' into 'Gemini Cracks Variant P3' into P4 of 'Gemini Cracks', then rappel from there.

  1. 40m 5.0. Up a non-descript V-chute to a small ledge with trees (natural anchor). Watch out for poison oak.

  2. 20m 5.8 A0 / 5.10c. Nice corner and crack up rock scar to roof. Pull on a #4 cam to get into offwidth trench, then easily past small tree to double bolt hanging belay (with slings and a rap ring).

  3. 40m 5.7. Continue up the crack to a pod (button head just above - possible to belay here), then follow the nice discontinuous cracks right to a hanging belay on chains.

  4. 30m 5.8. The pitch you came for! Up the awesome twin splitter cracks (mostly climbing the left hand one) to a chain belay. Most people descend from here, as P5 isn't worth doing and descending from the top of the dome is more difficult.

  5. 30m 5.4. Move right along crack to tree then easily up crack system. 4th class except for one move near the top (stay roped up).

Rappel descent is down 'Smoke Screen' - double ropes are required and 2x60m ropes are recommended (can descend in 2 long rappels with double 60s).

5.8 Gemini Cracks Variant P3
  1. 35m 5.8 From the P2 belay on Gemini Cracks, go left on the hero undercling flake (#4 / #3.5 cams), and up a lovely easy crack on the left hand side. Belay at chains on top of the flake.

  2. 30m 5.2 Move right on broken blocks (watch for the rope getting hooked up) then up nice discontinuous cracks to rejoin original route at the chains below P4.

With a 60m rope, it's also (just) possible to link pitch 2 all the way to the top of 'Gemini Cracks' P4. In this case the second should clip into the P1 anchor with long slings, so they can give the leader as much rope as possible.

Better than the original P3.

5.11 R Set The Controls For The Heart Of The Sun

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Pressure Wave

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Lizard Of Ahs

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Squeaks Of Gold

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a PG13 Shrieks Of Bold

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10 R Razor Face

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10a Sea Of Holes

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Deer Bridge Dome

A cool little area with a selection of moderate slab routes and the odd crack. Clint Cummins has a good (albeit slightly out of date) topo available at the web archive of his old Stanford site.

Deer Bridge Dome
Silver Streak Wall

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Deer Bridge Dome Silver Streak Wall
5.8 Fickle Finger Crack

The obvious left-leaning splitter right about where you reach the cliff, with two new bolts leading up a slab to the start of the crack.

  1. 25m 5.8 Up the slab (2 bolts) to the crack, then following the crack to a chain belay. This pitch can be top-roped, but directionals are strongly recommended to avoid big swings.

  2. 25m 5.6 Walk right on the ledge (may be worth moving the belay) until you reach a pleasant little left facing corner crack. Up this to belay on the diagonal ramp.

4th class descent down the ramp to the left.

5.10b Captain's Paradise

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10a Embarrassment of Riches

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.9 Hang Nail

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10+ Clambake

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Deer Bridge Dome
Designer Wall

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Deer Bridge Dome Designer Wall
5.10b Captain's Paradise

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.9 Taster's Choice

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10 Smooth Sailing

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Riptide

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b/c Sendero Luminoso

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b/c Rio Negro

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a Glide Slope

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Rainy Day Rock

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Rainy Day Rock
5.11c Stairs Cliff

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11b Abdominator

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Dreaming of JTree

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Upper Sergeant Rock

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Upper Sergeant Rock
5.11c Starting Line

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Thunderbolt and Lightfoot

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.8 Layin' On the Hands

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.11a C.L.O.G.

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

5.10b Preasure Wave

No access issues, as its located in National Forest.

Showing all 86 nodes.

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