Routes in California for selected grade

On the backside of the right boulder.

Climb the large crack. Best as a TR.

Bolter rout farthest right. Use directional to TR.

TR the face below the Bear Hug anchor.

Sit start just right of the arete. Hard move or two on nice textured slopers / pinches, then jugs to the top. Could probably make up some harder variants / eliminates here.

Pro to 4". Bolted top anchor.

Pro to 4". Climb the right crack to the first bolt.

Pro to 5". Bolted top anchor.

Bolted top anchor.

or A0. Originally bolted (on lead) as an aid line.

Can take optional gear.

Reachy. Usually top-roped. Pro to 2".

3rd class approach.

1. (5.9+ R) Climb the right side of the pinnacle, then wander up run out climbing past some bolts and fixed gear. Two ropes suggested.

2. (5.10c) Thin cracks with few placements lead to the summit.

Scramble off to the right.

1. 85ft (5.10c) Climb past five bolts to a bolted belay.

2. (5.10b R) Continue up runout climbing past three bolts and thin cracks to the summit.

Rappel after just pitch one, or scramble off to the right from the summit.

1. 140ft (5.10b) Ascend the crack, then clip bolts up the face to the bolted anchor shared with Whisper. Double rope rappel, or ...

2. 40ft (5.8/5.9) ... continue up the obvious crack. Walk off down the trail back to Newspaper Ledge.

Careful footwork and technical face climbing leads straight up the line of bolts. Stick to the newer hardware, avoiding the (obviously) suspect bolt hanger as well as the (obviously) suspect chain top anchor.

Start right of Bulldog Direct and climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up the flakes, staying right of the bolts.

Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5".

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

Finish on P2 of The Good Book.

5.10b or 5.9 C0 via pendulum traverse (on 1/4" bolts).

Pro to 3".

1. (5.8)

2. (5.9)

3. (5.7)

4. (5.10c)

5. (5.0)

After P1 of Cosmic Wall, move left to climb inside the ogre's eye. Continue up, rejoining Cosmic Wall at the base of P4.

Pro to 1".

Pro to 4".

1. 90' (5.10b) 1 bolt. Pro to 3".

2. 100' (5.10c PG) 2 bolts. Pro to 4".

Pro to 2".

Nice leaning large crack to chimney. Gear to 4". Not in guide book?

1. (5.6)

2. (5.10)

3. (A2)

4. (A2)

5. (A3)

6. (5.9)

7. (5.9)

Wide pro.

1. 50' (5.10b) Pro to 1".

2. 90' (5.10b) Pro to 3".

From the FA: "Without a picture I'm not sure, but the name Great Chimney rings a bell. This chimney is on the leftmost substantial peak of Castle Crags when viewed from the road on the south side, i.e. the South Face. We climbed this route in about 6 pitches, the 2nd or 3rd pitch being a 50m sqeeze chimney without protection which we thought to be 5.9. Above the chimney we went left a few metres and finished up a thin leftwards trending groove which was about 5.10b/20. To descend we dropped north into a canyon wnd followed it to the east and then the south to the road. This route appeared to have been attempted as there was some abseil tat low in the chimney and no signs above. We did some gardening/cleaning of the crux pitch on ascent. We named the route The Perfumed Garden After the blooming fragrant honeysuckle encountered in the canyon on our descent. Hope you like this."

Bolted crack - also goes on gear.

Gear to 4". A start that is a little spooky leads through tricky to protect face climbing. A short rightward traverse leads into a multi-tiered roof. Crux is the last move.

Climb the dihedral then traverse left and up the roof.

A well bolted, short route that harder than it looks.

2-bolt top anchor.

Last bolt and 2-bolt top anchor are shared with 'Limestone Cowboy'[233091954].

2-bolt top anchor. Pro to 2".

Climb past the first 3 bolts of 'Rapture'[233100717], then traverse right to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Blew It'[233102346].

2-bolt top anchor.

2-bolt top anchor.

5 half-inch removable bolts. 2-bolt anchor.