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San Francisco Bay Area
The fabled "Land of Microcrags". Limited, though varied and interesting climbing and bouldering on a wide variety of rock types. |
North Bay
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
[name redacted]
A cool free-standing chert cube with faces up to about 20' high. Some nice boulder problems on the left hand side (V0-V5) and possibly some futuristic projects under the big overhang. The tall, clean right hand side has a handful of 5.8+ top rope problems. There's one manky hangerless bolt above the right hand wall, but it's best to bring a lot of long slings or a 2nd rope to sling a block way back from the edge. There's also a 1" - 2" cam flake immediately behind the bolt, but it's exceptionally loose - don't use it! Note that the rock is exposed to the wind howling up from Rodeo Beach - it can be pretty unpleasant on cold, windy days. |
Black Sand Beach
A tide-dependent adventurous escape from the crowds and city, without having to go far. Offers two distinct areas, on very different rock types. A tide chart is available here. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach |
Hidden Cove
A 300' wide outcropping of chert up to around 35' in height that's been undercut, and, in the lower sections polished, by the ocean. The strata generally dips at around 45 degrees, making for universally challenging problems - your pinch strength will get a workout. The rock is crumbly, especially above maximum wave height and you will snap off numerous holds while climbing here! As a result the area is best approached with an adventurous mindset, and extra care taken to avoid out-of-control falls. On the plus side, the landings are mostly excellent - the coarse grained black sand doesn't seem to get hard packed even when wet, and often offers a softer landing than a mat. One or two problems on the initial wall have dangerous rocks underneath them, but they're the exception rather than the rule. The number of problems here is virtually unlimited, due to the extremely featured nature of the chert. However due to the water polished rock and down-dipping nature of the layers, most of the climbing is V2 or harder. Due to the difficulty of the problems and snappy nature of the rock, this is not a good area for beginners, although the location is stunning and worth a non-climbing visit anyway. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove |
South Side
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove South Side |
V5
The Ladder - left finish
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V4
The Ladder - right finish
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V3
Snake Charmer
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V0+ X
Sunset Solo
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove |
Bholláin Muire
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove Bholláin Muire |
V2 PG13
Kitten Kisser
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V0 - 1
Mango's Walkabout
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V2 PG13
Hugs From Thugs
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V0
Inappropriate Footwear
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V0
Lauren's Crack
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove |
North Side
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Hidden Cove North Side |
V5
Intruding Dyke
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V9 R
Hidden Cove Project
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V8 R
Scary Roof Project
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V3
The Ocean Floor
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V2
The Abalone
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach |
Last Cove
A remote and adventurous area offering great bouldering on exceptional water polished greywacke. Note that the rock quality rapidly deteriorates the higher you go. Given the seclusion, this is also a popular area for nudists. |
North Bay Black Sand Beach Last Cove |
V6
Best Of The Bay
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V7/8
Texture
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V3
Cutter
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay |
Dias Ridge Rock
A 25' tall boulder right beside the Dias Ridge Trail, about half a mile from the parking lot. Doesn't look like much on the approach, but the western and southern sides offer some steeper highball / top rope terrain (bring gear for an anchor if top-roping). |
Mount Tamalpais
The prominent peak (2500' / 780m ASL) just across the Golden Gate in Marin County. Offers a small but pleasant variety of climbing and bouldering on a smattering of different rock types. The 'Summit Crags' are well worth visiting for the view - on a clear winter or spring day you can see the Sierras, 200 miles to the East. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais |
Bootjack / Ravine Boulders |
Rock Spring Boulders
A dispersed collection of serpentine boulders on the Western and Southern slopes of Mt Tam. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders |
The Molar
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
Roadside Boulder
A 40 foot high lump of crumbly serpentine right beside the road. Doesn't look like much from the road side, but the other side is steep and tall. May be worth bringing top roping gear if you're at all nervous about highballs, although there aren't a lot of options for an anchor (at one time there was a bolt on top, but all that's left is a rusty empty sleeve). Landings are mostly excellent (flat gravel). |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders Roadside Boulder |
V7
★★ Camel Pie Traverse
Left to right. |
V2
★ Left Side
Start 10ft left of the base of the crack, at some low flat holds. |
V2
★ Pocket Problem
Start at the large undercling pocket at head height, about 4ft left of the base of the crack. Straight up through the obvious second undercling pocket. Graded V2 in guidebooks, but that seems a bit sandbagged. |
V4
★ Camel Toe
Start at the base of the crack, then blast straight up over the bulge. |
V1
★ Camel High
Start at the two obvious head-height jug pockets, and follow the easiest line to the top. |
V1
★★ Right Side
Start just right of the right hand pocket on 'Camel High', using a large high left facing sidepull to get going. |
Right Again
Seems like there'd be another V4-ish line just right again, going over the next bulge. |
V1
Right Once More
Between 'Right Again' and 'Right Arete'. |
VB
Right Arete
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders |
Bayview Boulder
A steep but limited boulder with a handful of mostly hard problems. Sloping landings mean you should probably have a spotter. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders Bayview Boulder |
V8
★ Left
Sit start. Stand start is V6. |
V3
★ Scenic Cruise
Sit start then up the ramp / corner. Hard at the top. |
V5
★ Liechen Detector
Start as for 'Scenic Cruise'. |
V5
★ Truth Serum
Sit start. |
V12
★★★ Bayview Crimp
The crimpy line to the left of Scenic Cruise. VERY CRIMPY!! |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders |
Eastern Bloc
An impressive, featured, steep wall with the potential for a lot of variants on the problems described here. Landings are quite sloping, so extra pads (to build up the landing zone) and spotters are recommended. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Rock Spring Boulders Eastern Bloc |
V4
★ Centre Route
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V4
★ Limb Burger
Sit start. |
V2
★ Warm Up Crack
Sit start. |
V5
★ 38 Special
Sit start on the sidepull, then up and slightly left. |
V5
★ Snake Charmer
Start as for '38 Special', but move up and right. |
V4
★★ Target Practice
Start on the rail then traverse up and right. Finish on a jug on the lip. |
V6
★★ ATF Traverse
Left to right traverse. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais |
Lakeview Crags
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Lakeview Crags |
Lakeview Boulders
A neat cluster of boulders hidden in amongst a lovely forest. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Lakeview Crags Lakeview Boulders |
Trailside Boulder
The clean cut boulder right beside the trail. |
V3
Trailside Traverse
Traverse right to left. |
V5
Trailside Sit Start
Starts near the end of the 'Trailside Traverse'. |
Corridor Boulder
The boulder on the right side, downhill from the 'Trailside Boulder'. |
V3
Hi Ho Silver
Traverse the Corridor boulder uphill. |
V2
The Old Man Card
V6 variant traverses below the lip. |
The Cairn
The projecting boulder on the left side, opposite the 'Corridor Boulder'. |
V8
★★ Campus Girlz
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V5
Kitty Hawk
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V5
Bush Pilot
Start as for 'Kitty Hawk', but move right. |
V2
High Heeled Hookers
Traverse left to right. |
V6
★ Girl Power
Sit start problem on the back of the boulder. |
The Building Block
The lower of two boulders visible through the trees off to the left (facing out) of 'The Cairn'. |
V1
★★ The Best Damn
Vague left arete. |
V4
The Devil Wears Prana
Start as for 'The Best Damn', but move left. |
V1
★ Contact High
Centre of face. Take care with a loose hold up high. |
V2
★ Eraser Arete
Right arete. |
Lakeview Slab
A large 35ft high slab in the middle of the boulder field, with fantastic views to the north. |
5.10a
★ Lakeview Slab Left
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.10d
★★ Lakeview Slab Centre
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.9
★ Lakeview Slab Right
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
Big Hunk
A prominent boulder downhill and right of the 'Lakeview Slab'. |
V8
★ Hunger Strike
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V1
★ EC Does It
Vague arete left of 'Hunger Strike'. |
5.10a
★ Arete
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V3
★ Slab Right
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V4
★ Centre Slab
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V2
★ Left Slab
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
Pee Wee's Playhouse
A small cave under a boulder to the left of 'Big Hunk'. |
V7
★ The Little Adventure
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V7
★ Adult Entertainment
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Lakeview Crags |
Spirits Wall
A cool boulder with an inspiring featured cave on its downhill side. Some opportunity for hard new problems & variants. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais Lakeview Crags Spirits Wall |
V3
★★ Absynthe
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V5
Beam Me Up
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
V5
Two Buck Chuck
Sit start. |
V7
★★ High Spirits
Low start. |
V5
Cocktail
Start as for 'High Spirits', but traverse right. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais |
East Peak Crags
A cluster of small crags offering a day's mid-range top-roping in a spectacular setting. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais East Peak Crags |
Northern Formation
The first and most extensive of the 4 features on the East Peak of Mt Tamalpais. Bring lots of long slings, or better yet a second rope, for slinging blocks for an anchor. A small rack may also be useful - there are a few options for wires and cams. |
North Bay Mount Tamalpais East Peak Crags Northern Formation |
South Face
A sun trap - this face can get very hot in summer, and has minimal shade at the base. |
5.5
Sun Slab Left
The left most line on the feature. Hard to top-rope from the same anchors as the other routes. |
5.7
Sun Slab Undercling
Up to the obvious overhanging block. Undercling right to join Sun Slab Center. |
5.10b
Sun Slab Center
Up the blank bulgy wall between Sun Slab Undercling and Equinox. Harder & better if you avoid the large cracked hold to the left. |