Routes as trad in Castle Dome Trail Area

Great jams and frequent stemming rests characterize this obvious crack and left-facing corner on the south side of the spire. Bolted top anchor is near the summit, far from the top of the crack. Build a gear anchor for top-roping. Descend by rappelling from the east side of the spire. Pro to 4".

A bolt protects face climbing to the crack. A few good hand jams lead up to the 2 bolt top anchor with chains.

~90ft to the chains, ~110ft to the tree which is reachable with a scramble up the gully to the left. The crux comes late with sparse gear placements for last 20 feet. Pro to 2" or 3".

3rd class approach.

1. (5.9+ R) Climb the right side of the pinnacle, then wander up run out climbing past some bolts and fixed gear. Two ropes suggested.

2. (5.10c) Thin cracks with few placements lead to the summit.

Scramble off to the right.

1. 85ft (5.10c) Climb past five bolts to a bolted belay.

2. (5.10b R) Continue up runout climbing past three bolts and thin cracks to the summit.

Rappel after just pitch one, or scramble off to the right from the summit.

Chimney climbing. Approach from the right (4th class) or directly from below (5.7).

1. 140ft (5.10b) Ascend the crack, then clip bolts up the face to the bolted anchor shared with Whisper. Double rope rappel, or ...

2. 40ft (5.8/5.9) ... continue up the obvious crack. Walk off down the trail back to Newspaper Ledge.

Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel.

Old pitons protect the overhanging start.

1. (5.9) Lead up the crack to the overhang, and set up a belay above the overhang.

2. (5.11c) Traverse left. The first bolt is up and right. Follow the bolts to the top.

Two pitches up the south arête. The Falcon guide sandbagged this at 5.6!

Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5".