Nodes in Castle Dome Trail Area

Old pitons protect the overhanging start.

Descend by rappelling the Regular Route from the bolted anchors above the east face.

Great jams and frequent stemming rests characterize this obvious crack and left-facing corner on the south side of the spire. Bolted top anchor is near the summit, far from the top of the crack. Build a gear anchor for top-roping. Descend by rappelling from the east side of the spire. Pro to 4".

Two pitches up the south arête. The Falcon guide sandbagged this at 5.6!

~90ft to the chains, ~110ft to the tree which is reachable with a scramble up the gully to the left. The crux comes late with sparse gear placements for last 20 feet. Pro to 2" or 3".

Top-rope the line up the right side of the face to join Warmup Route just below the shared chains.

3rd class approach.

1. (5.9+ R) Climb the right side of the pinnacle, then wander up run out climbing past some bolts and fixed gear. Two ropes suggested.

2. (5.10c) Thin cracks with few placements lead to the summit.

Scramble off to the right.

1. 85ft (5.10c) Climb past five bolts to a bolted belay.

2. (5.10b R) Continue up runout climbing past three bolts and thin cracks to the summit.

Rappel after just pitch one, or scramble off to the right from the summit.

Chimney climbing. Approach from the right (4th class) or directly from below (5.7).

A bolt protects face climbing to the crack. A few good hand jams lead up to the 2 bolt top anchor with chains.

1. 140ft (5.10b) Ascend the crack, then clip bolts up the face to the bolted anchor shared with Whisper. Double rope rappel, or ...

2. 40ft (5.8/5.9) ... continue up the obvious crack. Walk off down the trail back to Newspaper Ledge.

Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel.

1. (5.9) Lead up the crack to the overhang, and set up a belay above the overhang.

2. (5.11c) Traverse left. The first bolt is up and right. Follow the bolts to the top.

Careful footwork and technical face climbing leads straight up the line of bolts. Stick to the newer hardware, avoiding the (obviously) suspect bolt hanger as well as the (obviously) suspect chain top anchor.

Start right of Bulldog Direct and climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up the flakes, staying right of the bolts.

Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5".