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Mt. Shasta Area |
Castle Crags
Climbing at Castle Crags can be hugely rewarding but also dangerous due to the remoteness, loose rock, complicated approaches, and even more complicated descents. Bring a guide book. Grover Shipman's Mt Shasta Area Rock Climbing (ISBN 0988827204) and State Of Jefferson Rock Climber's Guide (shastabasecamp.com) are currently the most comprehensive and up-to-date. |
Castle Crags |
Castle Dome Trail Area |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Peach Brandy Wall |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Peach Brandy Wall |
5.8 ★ Peach Brandy Wall |
5.10a
★ Peaches and Cream
Old pitons protect the overhanging start. |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Super Crack Spire
Descend by rappelling the Regular Route from the bolted anchors above the east face. |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Super Crack Spire |
5.9
★★★ Super Crack
Great jams and frequent stemming rests characterize this obvious crack and left-facing corner on the south side of the spire. Bolted top anchor is near the summit, far from the top of the crack. Build a gear anchor for top-roping. Descend by rappelling from the east side of the spire. Pro to 4". |
5.6 ★★ Regular Route |
5.8
South Arête
Two pitches up the south arête. The Falcon guide sandbagged this at 5.6! |
5.10c Spreading the Stoke |
5.10a ★★ West Crack |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Warmup Wall |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Warmup Wall |
5.9
★★ Warmup Route
~90ft to the chains, ~110ft to the tree which is reachable with a scramble up the gully to the left. The crux comes late with sparse gear placements for last 20 feet. Pro to 2" or 3". |
5.9
★ Unknown 1
Top-rope the line up the right side of the face to join Warmup Route just below the shared chains. |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Windsong Wall |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Windsong Wall |
5.10c
Rollercoaster
3rd class approach.
Scramble off to the right. |
5.10c R
★★ One Hand Scratching
Rappel after just pitch one, or scramble off to the right from the summit. |
5.8
Disappointment Dihedral
Chimney climbing. Approach from the right (4th class) or directly from below (5.7). |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Pincushion Wall |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Pincushion Wall |
Lower Pincushion Wall |
5.10a
★★ First Aid
A bolt protects face climbing to the crack. A few good hand jams lead up to the 2 bolt top anchor with chains. |
5.10b
★ Mild Steel
|
5.8
Whisper
Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel. |
Upper Pincushion Wall |
5.9 ★ Psycho |
5.11c
★ Snag
|
5.8 The Flakes |
5.8 Inside Out |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Bulldog Rock |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Bulldog Rock |
5.11+ Left Route |
5.10c
★★ Bulldog Direct
Careful footwork and technical face climbing leads straight up the line of bolts. Stick to the newer hardware, avoiding the (obviously) suspect bolt hanger as well as the (obviously) suspect chain top anchor. |
5.10b
Flake n' Shake
Start right of Bulldog Direct and climb up to the hanging flake. Continue up the flakes, staying right of the bolts. |
5.10b
★★ The Peanut
Starts to the right of Bulldog Direct. Ascend the huecos and pockets, then follow the right leaning crack up to the crux at the piton. Continue up, then left back to the Bulldog Direct anchor. Pro to 2.5". |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Snag Spire |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Snag Spire |
5.6 South Face |
5.9 West Face |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Saddle Spire |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Saddle Spire |
5.7 South Arête |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area |
Sidekick Boulder |
Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Sidekick Boulder |
5.9 Sidekick |
Castle Crags |
Six Toe Rock
From the summit, either rappel Six Toe Crack with a single rope, or double-rope rappel (free hanging!) off of the backside into The Grotto. |
Castle Crags Six Toe Rock |
5.6
★ Easy Street
Climb the right-leaning crack in two pitches to join Six Toe Crack at the notch. |
5.7
★ Easy On
Climb the right-leaning crack to join Six Toe Crack at the first belay anchor. |
5.8
★★ Six Toe Crack
Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the off-width crux. #5 C4 or #11 BD hex will see you through. |
5.10a
★ Chocksucker
Climb the crack / chimney up the left-facing dihedral to the right of Six Toe Crack, tunneling behind the massive chockstone. Finish at the bolted anchor shared with Six Toe Crack. Pro to 4". |
5.8
★ Purple Heart
|
The Grotto |
Castle Crags Six Toe Rock The Grotto |
5.10a R
★★ Killer Tofu
Climb about 30' up easy 5th class dihedral, on left side of large roof, then traverse left and up face placing gear in flakes as you go. About 50' up, face thins out and you make delicate moves past 2 bolts and 10a crux to gain a right-facing dihedral. Layback up to the top of the dihedral, and reach left to a large detached flake with a spike of rock on top which can be slung with a long runner. Follow cracks straight up another 40' to chain anchor. Pro to 3". 60m rope suffices to lower to easy terrain (tie a knot in the end). |
5.11d
★★★ Meclazine Dream
Start on Apnea. After initial bouldery start climb up layback crack about 10' then traverse right to a bolt on thin face moves (11-). Continue right a bit then straight up to another bolt and pass bolt crux (11b/c). Place #4 BD stopper or equivalent from a dicey stance, traverse back left a couple of moves, then up for about 10'-15' of solid 5.10r until you gain a layback flake and pro. Continue to a roof with a bolt, turn roof (10-), and traverse back into the 5.10 finish of Apnea. Pro to 3". |
5.12d
★★★ Apnea
Ultra Classic. Start just left of large roof. Bouldery start at a bolt to sustained thin crack/seam with good but sporty pro. Turn a small roof, and climb face on thin but positive edges to a larger roof. Turn roof 'crux' and continue up steep sporty cracks to chain anchor. Pro to 3". |
5.11a
★★★ Aliens Are My Friends
Classic. Start left of Apnea about 40' up on a ledge just left of flaky right-facing dihedral. From ledge do a mantle 10a move on perfect marble like rock to gain a bolt, then up a rounded arête to a layback crack. Throw in some bomber gear, and layback up a couple of moves. Make a face move back right, and climb up to a roof. Power through roof 11a crux, then up thin face to another cruxy move 10d to chain anchor. Pro to 0.75". |
5.10d R
★ Mixed Nuts
Same start as Aliens Are My Friends. From top of crack head left and up to split crack in roof. Place gear and bust over roof crux, then traverse right and finish up on Aliens Are My Friends. Pro to 3". |
5.11b
★ Illegal Alien
Left of Aliens Are My Freinds about 15' climb up thin cracks with tricky gear then clip a bolt. Head up and left to a crack, place some gear, and make thin moves left to another bolt. Bust straight up and over powerful roof crux, then up more thin moves and tricky gear. Head right to the top anchor shared with Aliens Are My Friends. Beware of loose blocks near anchor. Pro to 1". |
5.11d
★★★ Hanuman
Classic. One of the few sport climbs at the Crags. Bring a sling for a horn up high. Top anchor shared with The Seeker. |
5.10d
★ The Seeker
On east face of the Grotto behind and a little up from Apnea. Climb up steep clean right facing crack, place a large cam in a pocket and make powerful move over a roof 10d'crux' then head left and up on steep terrain with large hold and marginal gear. make a move up onto a ramp head up ramp until you can access a tree with slings around it to rappel and/or set up a top rope. Pro to 4". |
5.11b
★★ Breaking The Law
Climb up face past 3 bolts, slinging horns between bolts. |
5.11a R
★★ Gland Entry
Pro to 3". |
5.12a
★★★ Stellar
Climb overhanging splitter crack on arête, which is at the opening of the Grotto, for 40'. Then turn corner onto lower angle side and meander up face with tricky gear placements for another 60'. Pro to 4". |
Castle Crags |
The Mansion
Just walk down the Castle Crags Trail. |
Castle Crags The Mansion |
East Face |
Castle Crags The Mansion East Face |
5.11a ★★ Casino |
Castle Crags |
Castle Dome |
Castle Crags Castle Dome |
East Face |
Castle Crags Castle Dome East Face |
Approach via Crags Trail:
Approach via Crags Trail: |
5.10 R
Maiden Voyage
Finish on P2 of The Good Book. |
5.10
I-5
Finish on P2 of The Good Book. |
5.10a
★ The Good Book
Pro to 3". |
Approach via Root Creek:
Approach via Root Creek: |
5.11c R
★★ Following Spirit
Pro to 4".
|
5.10 The Consolation Prize |
5.10a
★ Castle Blaster
Pro to 4". Guides disagree on grades (5.8 to 5.10) and number of pitches (5 to 8). |
5.10d R
★★★ East Face
Most pitches are PG13 / R. An area classic, but long run-outs, old bolts, tricky placements, and a 4th class walk off should deter anyone not solid at the grade. Pro to 3".
Descend by downclimbing the 'Regular Route'[18567493] on the SW face. |
5.12a R Brothel |
5.11+ Temporary Setback |
5.10d
★★★ Golden Flow
Pro from micro nuts to 2". |
5.11a
★★★ Lunar Flow
Pro to 1". |
5.12c
★★★ Castle Corner
Pro to 3". |
5.12a
★★★ Year of the Dragon
Pro from micro nuts to 2". |
Castle Crags Castle Dome |
West Face |
Castle Crags Castle Dome West Face |
5.8
West Ridge
Pro to 4". Descend by down climbing The Regular Route. |
5.10 Fetal Gesture |
Class 4 X
★★ SW Scramble
|
Castle Crags Castle Dome |
North Face |
Castle Crags Castle Dome North Face |
5.10 R Northeast Ridge |
5.10b R
★ North Face
5.10b or 5.9 C0 via pendulum traverse (on 1/4" bolts). |
Castle Crags |
Root Creek |
Castle Crags Root Creek |
5.8
★★ Dike Hike
Pro to 3".
|
5.10c
Dunsmuir Avenue
Pro to 3".
|
Castle Crags |
Mt. Hubris |
Castle Crags Mt. Hubris |
5.8 The Great Chimney |
5.10d R
★★★ Solar Wind
|
5.10b R
★ Faceted Dike
After P1 of Cosmic Wall, move left to climb inside the ogre's eye. Continue up, rejoining Cosmic Wall at the base of P4. |
5.6
★★★ Cosmic Wall
Stay high on the saddle to follow faint trails through the manzanita from the Crags Trail towards the descent gully. Skirt left around the base of Mt Hubris until you reach the large tree at the base of the right-facing dihedral that marks the beginning of the route.
Descend the NE face with a 90ft rappel from chains, then an 80ft rappel from rings. Follow the 3rd class gully back down to meet the saddle approach trail in the manzanita. Gear: 60m rope, standard rack to 3" plus long slings for horns and thread-throughs. |
5.9 R
★ Golden Opportunity
|
Castle Crags |
Beck's Tower |
Castle Crags Beck's Tower |
Marble Gully |
Castle Crags Beck's Tower Marble Gully |
5.12b PG
★ More Bolts Less Nuts
Pro to 1". |
5.12b R
★★★ Organic Mechanic
Pro to 0.75". |
5.8
★★ Ducks on Parade
Pro to 4". |