Routes in Castle Crags for selected grade

Two pitches up the south arête. The Falcon guide sandbagged this at 5.6!

Chimney climbing. Approach from the right (4th class) or directly from below (5.7).

Cracks and flakes lead up to a bolted anchor shared with Mild Steel.

1. 100ft (5.8) Move through the early crux, then follow the crack straight up,.

2. 100ft (5.8) Continue up the crack, then struggle through a short off-width section. Rappel, or ...

3. 100ft (5.6) ... continue up the dihedral to the right to gain the summit.

Pro to 4.5" with widest pro at the off-width crux. #5 C4 or #11 BD hex will see you through.

1. Start on Chocksucker, but traverse right to the arête after passing the P1 anchor of Six Toe Crack. Belay at the ledge with the bushes.

2. Continue up the arête to the summit.

Pro to 4". Descend by down climbing The Regular Route.

Pro to 3".

1. (5.4)

2. (5.8)

3. (5.4)

Pro to 4".