Routes as trad in Castleton Tower

1. 40m (5.9) More of a crack pitch than a chimney, it looks intimidating for the grade. A low crux leads to the chimney and a double crack system. Straight up with lay-backing & jamming, well protected throughout, bring plenty of cams. There is a higher crux just before the belay through a bulge. DBB.

2. 30m (5.9) A short and awkward off-width section just above the belay, bring a BD#5 to protect and ignore the manky old bolt. Continue up chimneying and passing a few loose chockstones. Trad belay with small to medium cams, although there may be fixed pitons in-place.

3. 30m (5.7) Continue chimneying up, and exit to the right to a loose gravel chute with large loose boulders. Climb over these to a saddle and join the Kor-Ingalis route. Not great gear, but body belay behind boulder is fine.

4. 15m (5.6) Nice climbing up flakes trending left to the top and rappel chains.

1. 110 ft (5.12b) Pro: single set of cams to 5", 7 quickdraws.

2. 105 ft (5.13b) Pro: 16 quickdraws.

3. 65 ft (5.12b) Pro: cams to 0.5-2", 3 quickdraws.

4. 80 ft (5.12a) Pro: 0.75" cam, 7 quickdraws.

Descend with a 70m rope in 4 rappels down the south face of the arrow and then into the dihedral of 'Kor-Ingalls'[19398475] to the bottom.

FA. April 13/14 2001 by Paul Ross ,Jeff Pheasent. Some wild situations. Unrepeated as of 2010. The Traverse uses 4 pitches of establised climbs and 5 new pitches.

1. P1 of Kor-Ingalls.140' 5.6.
2. Move belat to the right to join Arrowhead Left .Climb this pitch to the top of the Arrowhead (junction with Stardust Cowboys)100' 5.10.
3. The long Ed WEbster bolt ladder is followed,then up to the right to a belay overlooking North Chimney.110'.
4. Climb down 20' then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 North Chimney. Traverse right across the slab to the bolt rap/lower ,and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of P2 North Face route.110'.
5. Up ledges to the right ,then climb down 12' to a beatifully exposed narrow slab traverse line.(some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers ,nut and washers in place- bring 1/2" wrench,or use wires) Follow the slab crossing Sun,Moon and Stars climb to an anchor overlooking The West Face route.110' 5.9+ AO (with pro now in place should go all free).
6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face.
7. Follow a thin crack up and right to a belay around the corner. C1 5.3.
8. The long exposed crack is followed across theWest Face to a belay overlooking the Kor-Ingall route.80' 5.9 C1.
9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. 170' C1.

Climb Kor or rap off... Gear Two sets of Cams from Metolius 00 to #4 Friend many biners for Webster bolt ladder ,Stoppers ,and perhaps hand drill as now route is getting old without second ascent.!

1. 130ft (5.6) Up into an awful tight squeeze chimney. Maybe a better alternative is to start 20 foot right and climb up through blocks. Belay on massive ledge with massive bolts and chains.

2. 100ft (5.8) Move across to the chimney and double crack system. Ignore the chimney on the left with the bolt (that’s “Black Sun”). Instead, on the right is a double crack system, the left crack is probably best. Climb over some loose blocks at the top to a comfy ledge with bolts and chains.

3. 100ft (5.9) Layback up the corner, the crack widens and you move into and find a bolt, the crack narrows and you’re forced out for the crux which is protected by a bolt, you’ll stem with thin footholds and gratefully reach a large calcite hold for your left hand. More wide crack/chimney above before being forced out on to the right face just before the belay, bolts and chains.

4. 80ft (5.8) The obvious line is straight up the off-width crack. However, easier climbing up right to join the North Chimney route, climb flakes up to rappel chains.