Routes as trad in Central Cascade Mountains

Slightly left trending splitter hand crack.

The first two pitches of this route are most commonly combined with p3 of Heart of the Country, with which it shares all three anchors.

p1: From a two-bolt anchor perched above a slab to the right of the tunnel, climb a short low-angle slab to gain a ledge. Walk left to find a two-bolt anchor. (5.8)

p2: Pull a small roof formed by giant flakes to find a short crack leading to another bolted anchor. (5.9)

p3: Try to ignore the spectacular splitter to the right and instead go left up wide cracks to the final anchor. (5.9)

Rappel the route.

From the big sandy ledge, climb the wide left-facing crack through an easy roof to a short slab up to an old two-bolt anchor (do not stop here). Continue left/up a crack system to a bolted anchor next to a tree.

Slightly overhanging splitter crack from tight hands to wide hands or fists, this is the wider/leftmost of two cracks reachable from the top of Roger's Corner.

This is the second/bigger left-trending roof from the left side of LTW. After turning the corner of the roof, follow the chimney to an excellent splitter. Most climbers stop at the chains for a 5.10b adventure. Continue through the roof for full value at 5.11b.

Left trending pair of cracks.

P1: A low-angle crack leads to a right-facing corner with a finger crack leads to a sandy ledge with filtered sun and a two-bolt anchor.

P2: A right-facing/overhanging #2-#3 camalot-sized crack tops out on an even sandier sloping ledge with another two-bolt anchor.

P3: Two cracks in a chimney provide many options. The right side starts finger-sized, eventually widening to fists. The left is wide offwidth to squeeze chimney. Much of the whole chimney can be stemmed with assistance and gear from the two cracks. The final anchor is equipped with mussy hooks. This pitch is often followed on toprope, with the leader back at the top of p2.

Rappel the route.

Easily up arete with poor pro. Top can be accessed for top roping.

Follow the rightward leading hand crack with good protection into a groove. From here work in some protection and climb the face on good holds and sloping feet to the anchor above.

The anchor at the top also provides a good TR setup for the classic stemming corner The View from the Bridge

This gentle introduction to Index 5.11b follows the finger crack and flake system that starts with Roger's Corner. From the top of Roger's Corner, step right into a good stance and fire up a sequence of fingers, side pulls, and long reaches. Shares a top anchor with Breakfast of Champions.

flake L of City Park p2, long runners

Climb rampy jugs with big feet up the middle of a triangular face. Moving right clip a bolt and place a finger size cam in a horizontal cracked feature. Break soft left on face moves past two bolts to a pedestal belay for Racer-X/Metal/Beetle Bailey.

A tremendous psychological warm-up for Racer-X as it compares in physical difficulty, but is much more generous with protection. Initially viewed as a 2nd and slightly harder/longer pitch to Behind the Tombstone, it also became the 2nd pitch of one of Index’s best moderate multi-pitches, Ride The Lightning.

From the top of “Behind the Tombstone”, Follow the ramp with natural gear a few feet until you see a bolt above in a “circular cutout”. Climb into the cutout and then onto the slab. Climb past the intermediate anchor (the start of p3 of Ride The Lightning) and another bolt. Move right to the white corner, padding up fun knobs for feet and crimps in the roof to the anchor for the 5.10a/b finish. The route uses a series of expanding flake systems that are safe for climbing but highly suspect for gear.

The anchor is shared with “Beetle Bailey P2” and “Larry’s Lycra” and is an easy access to set up a TR for those routes.

Inspiring roofs, slabs, traverses and exposure rolled into four very different moderate pitches, everything to test the new 5.10 leader.

P1 Climb “Behind the Tomb Stone. 5.9

P2 “Rope Eating Mice” Bolts and a handful of finger-to-tight hand-size gear placements. some face moves to start into expanding flakes and a high crux. Stop at the first set of anchors NOT the high set of rap rings. 10a/b

P3 “ From the lower belay, make an easy traverse right, up a ramp with optional gear, aiming for an obvious low bolt on an exposed Arete (5.6) At the bolt match low then make an exposed karate kick to good feet and slap out right to a jug. Follow bolts up exposed terrain minding your feet with a few reachy moves. 10c

P4 This pitch can be seen from the pullout by the river. It’s a fantastic clip-up on slabby mantles, high steps and a memorable foot traverse with extraordinary views of Mt Index and the river singing in the background. 10a

This is how most people climb these two routes, which share all anchors:

[G.M. p1]

climb from a two bolt anchor above a slab, trending slightly right to a huge ledge. Walk the ledge to the left and scramble up to the anchor. (5.8+)

[G.M. p2]

Scramble up to an overhang formed by a pair of huge flakes. Overcome the roof to gain a wide crack. This is a short pitch that can be easily combined with p1 for a great time. (5.9)

[HotC p3]

Step right into a widening splitter, leading to a ledge (5.9 to here, where you can bail to the anchors at the right). Continue up the slightly overhanging hand crack, step left a bit, and find anchors on a ledge; feels a bit like Breakfast of Champions. (5.10a)

Rappel p3 --> p1--> ground.