Showing all 20 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 | ★ Staircase
FA: Steve Cheyney, Bob Stauch & Pete Croff, 1983 | ||||
5.10 | Insignificant, But There
Boulder Problem or Top Rope FA: Mike Johnson & Bob D'Antonio, 1983 | ||||
5.8 | ★ Practice Slab, 5.8 | ||||
5.4 | Practice Slab, 5.4 | ||||
5.1 | Practice Slab, 5.1 | ||||
5.5 | Notch Traverse | ||||
5.10 | Tower Crack
FA: Bob Robertson, 1982 | ||||
5.7 | Sandman
FA: Harvey Carter, 1960 | ||||
5.12a | ★★ Kor's Korner
FFA: Leonard Coyne, 1979 FFA: Richard Aschert, 1985 | ||||
5.8 R | ★★ West Point Crack
Part of a large flake on the South Gateway Rock, it forms into a separate column near the top. P1. The start is tricky, on a rough overhang. The old drilled pins have been replaced with 3 modern bolts. There is a thin belay stance about halfway up the length of the column. 50', 5.7. P2. Ascend the crack that becomes a chimney passing 2 drilled pins. The best part is after you finish the chimney section and end the second pitch by pulling left onto the top of the column. The view is awesome, and well worth the effort. 95', 5.7+. P3. To top out, you step across from the flake to the right just below a drilled pin. This move has become more difficult as the rock eroded. Climb past a drilled angle to a finishing groove. It is kind of scary and hard up there, so it's not done as often. Belay to the south on a ledge system behind the main wall. Scramble south down the big gully to the end of South Gateway to get off. FFA: Harvey Carter, 1950 | 3, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★★ West Point Crack (first pitch only)
Follow bolts to anchor FA: Harvey Carter, 1950 | 15m, 3 | |||
5.10d R | ★★ Pipe Route
This is an exciting route that goes up the steep white face of the Indian Head formation, right of West Point Crack. It begins at an overhang with a new bolt just off the ground. P1) Crank the overhang, then continue up on easier terrain past a thread for some protection, and another new bolt. Step right to a crack where you can place a #4 Camalot, then continue up to another new bolt. (At this point, the Indian Head Route continues straight up). Traverse right past 2 drilled pitons, and make an exciting move right to a left facing corner. You can place a #0.75 Camalot here, but it's not that great, nor is it too necessary. Climb to the top of the pillar and belay from two bolts and a ring angle piton. (5.9+, 90 feet) P2) Climb straight up about 12 feet on steep, friable rock to a bolt and a piton. This is pretty exciting and has potential for a factor 2 fall onto the anchor. Traverse right about 10 feet to a left facing corner/flake/groove. It's possible to place a #3 Camalot here, but a few feet higher is another new bolt. Continue up steep, sustained, and loose climbing, past four more new bolts to the obvious saddle in the white rock. (5.10+ R, 70 feet) Rappel the route. Or climb straight up a slab from the top of the flake on the right and walk off (5.6 R, 40 feet). FA: John Auld & Gary Ziegler, 1960 FFA: Earl Wiggins & Jim Souder, 1976 | 64m, 2, 9 | |||
5.9 R | Indian Head
FA: Steve Hong, Ed Webster & Earl Wiggins, 1976 | ||||
5.10d R | ★★ Pipe Dreams
FA: Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster & Steve Hong, 1976 | 3 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Credibility Gap
The route begins behind a large boulder about 70' to the right of West Point Crack. The first piton if reached by getting between the boulder and South Gateway Rock and climbing up and left on a steep ramp. From there, follow the obvious line where the white and red sandstone meet and form a crack/edge. This leads to a face climb protected by 4 pins straight up to double anchors. Rap from the anchors or continue up the second pitch which ascends an angling ramp up and right. FA: Gary Zeigler & John Auld, 1960 FFA: Morgan Gadd & Skip Hamilton, 1970 | 2, 6 | |||
5.11a | Dog Day Afternoon
P1 - First pitch of Credibility Gap P2 - Traverse up and right pass 8 drilled pitons FA: Mark Rolofson & Ed Webster, 1978 | 2 | |||
5.9 | South End Tower, North Arete
FA: Harvey Carter, 1982 | 1 | |||
5.10b | South End Tower, West Face
FA: Harvey Carter, 1982 | ||||
5.9 | Southwest Crack
FA: Ed Webster & Harvey Carter, 1982 | ||||
5.11b | The Renegade
Sport? FA: Ian Spencer-Green & Stewart Green, 1993 |
Showing all 20 routes.