Nodes in Diablo Canyon

Crack to face with finger pockets.

From the parking area (by end of sometimes drivable sandy access road) the Diablo Canyon cuts west or northwest through a basalt mesa. Winter wall is the wall immediately to the right on the mesa front. This area is a natural oven, allowing comfortable climbs late in the season.

This route climbs the face left of the gear/bolts route Basalt Therapy finishing up a nice arête with great position. It’s the first route you’ll encounter as you head up the approach trail to the winter wall proper. It can be done in one long pitch or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots to reduce rope drag up high.

Pitch 1 (105'): Start up just below a large block with half a chalked “X” on it (I worked on this block for 10 minutes with a crow bar and while it wiggled, it wouldn’t come out) and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that route’s integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.

Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.

Pitch 2 (85'): Continue up the fun and airy arête on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.

Note: We spent many hours the on a couple of weekends cleaning the route. It still has some loose surface rocks on it but the big killers have been removed (some even bounced all the way down into the sandy wash!) Expect some loose rock and a “mountaineering feel” to the route until it cleans up a little more as it sees some more traffic. We are continually impressed how much cleaning is necessary on this wall. That said, it's a safe lead now in its current state (I was just damn tired of the sketchy and scary rap in from the mesa top to the anchors).

17 bolts plus the anchors. Pumpy route with a definite crux at a small roof just below the anchors.

Start at the fence post and follow the bolts. Two ropes needed to rap.

12' to 15' right of Hellboy. Scramble up a pillar, then you have a variety of types of climbing moves as you move up this side and that of an arete, then face to then arete and face to the top.

Starts at a low angle with plenty of holds in most places. About 2/3 of the way up is the crux, bypassing an overhang by going to the right side of it on steeper rock. This is the best part of the climb.

Shares chains at top with Old Sling

Up ramp with rollover short wall on right which forms an open book. Pick the ramp with the best handholds in the corner. Ascend between block in front and wall on right, then continue on easier blocky route bearing left and around edge on right to chains.

Not described in the newest guidebooks. To left of Protein Supplement. Go up gulley to notch, then up ramp and cut over to the right (long way) or diagonal left to anchor bolts (short way).

While the height is about 80' you need a little more rope because the rock slopes.

Furthest right bolted route on wall. Up diagonal slope to 80 degree section. At crux layback to the right of bolt, then reach high left with right hand to sidepull then further left to small hole. The rest of the route gets a little easier.

Long straight Basalt with lots of features. Good place to go in the fall. Not usually crowded

Very challenging route, right from the start.

At least two cruxes on this climb: a bulge at the middle, and a thin face at the top. Awesome climb, well bolted, as are all Bradshow routes. Cold Shuts at the top. Thank you, Rick.

Great face climbing. Cold shuts at the anchor.

A nice arête climb.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.

All routes have cold shut anchors. Use draws until your last climber lowers in order to save wear on the shuts.