The beginning is a bit scary as the best hold is your only pro but I managed to crimp some things and move up. I did fall up high at the traverse as I didn’t read the tricky sequence right. So good though!
Just the first amazing pitch - 11a! Will come back and do the whole thing. So good. Foot slipped on TR but did all the moves fairly easily - will come back to lead!
Made things way too strenuous under the roof, and missed the single hold that gets you onto the face. Had to sit. Would go knowing where to make that move rather than getting caught between genesis and boomerang
Redid the second pitch. Preplaced gear, I feel dirty. Wouldn’t be any harder to place it, I just wasn’t sure I could do that move again so I didn’t strip it on the way down.
I gave this thing everything I had and got so close after 3 shots but needed another. Preplaced gear as it gets exciting and you need to be careful through the crux, but be warned, don't place gear in the crucial finger locks!
Tronsight. Last pitch handcrack and boulder problem was definitely the most strenuous. The finger crack down low is the technicalcrux. Use the edge, heel hook when bumping the right foot and you'll be all right.
Entered the chimney too low! Next time I'll have to get a little higher at that section before jamming my head back.
Done with the 5.10b original Kor 1st pitch (which is exciting on tiny wires), and the 5.10c variant P5/P6 finish. Every pitch is brilliant and different. Onsight P1 & P2 (linked) and P4 & P5 and part P6 (all linked). Clean 2nd all others. The Kor start is powerful steepness, P2 is techy stemming, P3 is bouldery stemming, P4 features an amazingrooftraverse, P5 has a very hardbalancyexposedcrux, our P6 finish featured challengingarete climbing and a crazy summit topout.
