Ascents in Sanford Wall

What a great Flash, felt really good with this climb. Really feel I could've onsighted this the last time. But I was way to fresh, this time i was ready for it. Truthfully I felt like this climb was a little bit harder then a 5.9, maybe a 5.10a but it is what it is.

Extremely sandbagged.... Bolts and chains are in good condition.

Went for a repeat and to hang the draws for Steven so he could work it. Still a tough route.

Got a quick repeat! Love this face climb.

Sorted beta for bottom crux and hung draws.

Smashed crux but fluffed it at the top.

Smashed it!!! Fired through the crux and took my time through the upper section. Glad to close out Sanford Wall.

Did not use the arretes

Climbed at the end of the day, too tired to place my third lead. A couple interesting undercling moves.

Wasted time and energy doing the crux wrong. Route eases up after second bolt.

Too gassed from redpoint burn to make much of a TR attempt but it was good to practice the moves.

Smashed the boulder after a try or two but faced difficulty finding feet to help me navigate the crimps of the upper sections. Looking forward to trying this one again.

Great first lead post injury. Those upper crimps are still a little tricky.

Fluffed the first boulder sequence numerous times, I forgot how tricky the feet are, but felt comfortable on the step through and undercling sequence. A water streak made the upper climbing a little interesting but proved manageable.

Took a rest and waited for the route to come under shade. Fired through the boulder, tick tacked up into the undercling, shook out, then carefully eased around the slick upper section to the chains. Quite happy to send this route after so much time away.

Warmup lap.

Slipped off a smear going through the gaston flake section. Forgot how pumpy this thing can be if you don't know the sequence.

Corrected my beta and moved through it clean.

Messed up the crux

Super fun

Nearly sent it this trip. And I discovered some new beta. Was def. climbing it wrong. No need to even use that slopey dish for a hand...it's a foot. Looking forward to the next trip.

More practice and endurance. This thing twice in a row will work you over.

Spent some time rehearsing my moves and trying to tone down the crux around the second clip. Something still feels off about this sequence. Doesn't flow with the rest of the climb.

Think my beta is still off. The move off the sloping dish doesn't really match the route description. But I am getting close. Fired through the first boulder this time.

Nearly figured out a decent sequence for the bottom boulder when I tore a giant sidepull off. Back to the drawing board.

New beta for the bottom boulder since I tore of the giant sidepull. It'll go.

Loved this climb. Wonderfully sustained crimpy face climbing with plenty of tiny edges. Fight the pump till the thank god jugs at the top.

Nice to come back and smash this one easily.

Tried it with different beta this time. Made progress, but still no clean ascent.

Big and burly. 3 bolts. One could deck if not careful.