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Ascents in Parking Area Wall having Beta

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Showing all 15 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Thu 12th Apr 2012 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.7 Fat Boy's Pork Palace Trad Good
Michael Gray
This AIN'T Fat Boys Pork Palace. That name was given to another route over a decade before this line was climbed by anyone on this site, at least one of whom whoud know better. The line was dubbed "Franklin Traditions" by the guy who installed the anchor; yours truly. No FA info is available, but the founders of this crag (John Burcham, Eric Anderson, Ed Begoon, Mike Artz, George Powell, etc) had no knowledge of the routes existance or any personal ascents on the line.

 
Sun 12th Oct 2008 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.9 Lunar Debris Sport 15m, 4 Good
Saloca
Good warm-up with many stemming opportunities.

 
Sat 4th Oct 2008 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Odysseus Sport 16m, 5 Don't Bother
Saloca
Very hard on the bottom, very sharp holds on top. Not my favorite. If you see the first ascensionist hanging around (very possible) ask him for beta to see his impressive knee bar and other unique moves on the lower section.

 
Fri 23rd May 2008 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10d Route of All Evil Sport 7 Very Good
J. Feher
Fun climb. Pulled the roof at the top without moving right to the arete, thus skipping the last bolt on the face right of the anchors.

 
Mon 31st Dec 2007 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Odysseus Sport 16m, 5
@drdoom
Very good.

 
Tue 25th Dec 2007 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.7 Fat Boy's Pork Palace Trad Good
Michael Gray
Who decided this route was called "Fat Boy's"? Ed Begoon and Mike Artz put up a route named Fat Boys several decades ago, and this is NOT it. If you don't know the name, DON'T make one up... you only reveal your ignorance regarding local climbing history.

 
Sun 29th Jul 2007 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
James Curry
Great Route!

 
Sun 1st Apr 2007 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10b Wild Wild West Sport 19m Very Good
Michael Gray
A sweet variation start, albeit an occasionally green one. Hope the starting block never collapses... that would raise the grade at least to 10+. Another Mike Fisher classic!

 
Mon 28th Aug 2006 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
Jonathan Horst
excellent route, very pumpy and sustained and the hardest 10a i've ever seen

 
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7 Average
Ben Browand
So out of shape

 
Sat 28th Jan 2006 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7 Average
Boer
Freezing rock!

 
Wed 25th May 2005 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7
Ben Browand
mad slick holds to first bolt got to my head

 
Wed 29th Dec 2004 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.7 Fat Boy's Pork Palace Trad Don't Bother
Jonathan Horst
ok, but some loose stuff

 
Wed 1st Apr 1992 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.11b Limestoned Sport 19m Classic
Michael Gray
Mega-classic. climbed this as a much younger climber who worked as a concrete finisher and jackhammer operator. Tricky, balancey crux and incredible moves.

 
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Franklin Gorge
Parking Area Wall
5.10a Squeal Like A Pig Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
Jesse Morehouse
Unless you are tall or solid in the grade, stick clip the first, usually spinning bolt. All other bolts are solid.

 

Showing all 15 ascents.

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