Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.12b ~5.12a | ★ Clean Shaved — 2 attempts | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Not 12b. Given 11d on MP, 24 Australian seems fair. I don’t have the reach for the “ single move” even with super high feet, but did multiple crimpy moves immediately right of the bolt that worked out well.
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5.10d | ★★ Booby Prize | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice enough on its own, but really a link up of two routes
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5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★ Autumn Fire | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
★ Rats Alley | 23m | ★ Good | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.11d | ★★ Slab-O-Meat | 34m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.11b ~5.11c | ★★ Smore Energy — 2 attempts | 26m | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.9 | ★★ Smooth Operator | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.10a | ★ Biohazard | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance — 2 attempts | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Rod Sterling Crack | 23m | ★ Good | ||||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam | 21m | Average | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.9 | ★★ Happy Hands | 21m | Average | ||||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.10d | ★★ Realignment | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Decameron Area | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Decameron - with Elliott Pryor | 27m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd Try. This thing is all time! Probably the most fun I've ever had climbing in the sun. The position is out of this world, as soon as you hit the arete you are above the tree line and climb about 35 ft on the arete with the most amazing view and the route tops out, how does it get any better! The only negative to this climb is the lack of bolts in the first section of climbing, not the most approachable for the 5.10 leader because of this. An incredible close to an amazing day of easy climbing, if every 5.10 was like this I would never feel the need to climb anything harder.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Hard | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - with Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Interesting final moves made the route
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5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.10b ~5.10c | ★ Springer | 23m | Average | ||||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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5.10d | Boing | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Strong Arming the Little Guy - with Caleb Mattson, Sam | 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd Try. Probably the hardest 5.10 I've ever done, super interesting movement on underclings and slopers, but unfortunately I was about 2 inches too short to use any of the good footholds. Not an easy section of climbing on the route. Got a bit flash pumped, and then went for a swim in the lake after.
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Sun 1st Oct 2023 - Smoke Hole Canyon | |||||||
Guide Wall Ninja Wall | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Black Hanger - with David Gray | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Nice moves, would get very good if ledge not there
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5.10a | ★ Native Suns - with David Gray | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Spaced bolts, no stopper moves
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5.8 | ★ Can't Pray The Gray Away - with David Gray | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Preparation H - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
2nd Try. Really sick route, with incredible sequences throughout. Hard moves off the ground were unenjoyable on the flash try, but felt sick on the go. Climbing to the 5th quickdraw is just some could old-fashioned arete liebacking movement with a sick toe perch to gain a crimp, and the boulder after pulling around the corner is divine with sequential footwork and an incredible float move out right. Felt a really good flow on this one and was psyched to do it soft 2nd.
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5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First route at the New! This one was on the all-time list, in fact, the only 5.10 from the New to make the list, and I've been nervous it wouldn't live up to the hype. Lucky for me, it turned out to be as sick as a 5.10 can be. Straightforward long lock-offs, balancy and thoughtful sections, and a really nice section with jugs and horizontal hand jams. People say this one is polished, but I thought it was in incredible shape for its popularity. Went back up a second time and got some crux footy from Caleb to hopefully put into the blog.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | Average | ||||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
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5.10c | ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | Don't Bother | ||||
Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Reed's Creek | |||||||
Gypsies Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice route, good warm up
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5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
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Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Under the Milky Way | 7 | |||||
beautiful arette. With a 6B boulder for a start and some permapump to fight.
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Fri 23rd Dec 2022 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Satisfaction Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Satisfaction Guaranteed | 18m, 8 | |||||
What a beauty, power start, slabby jugs, roof mantle, and weird stone at the end
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
awesome start, slightly overhanging #1 hand jams with some option for footholds. eases up after pulling the bulge to 5.6-5.7 climbing
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
more jugs than crack holds, but still fun.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Totally Tammy | 18m | |||||
wandery line makes leading the first part a little adventurous. a couple fun moves, but not continuous.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
good crack climbing broken up by ledgy traverses, finishing with some decent face moves
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
very polished with decent movement
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Star Trek Wall | |||||||
5.6 | Transporter Crack | 12m | |||||
wet
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
brilliant movement. glad I TR'd so I didn't have to worry about gear and could focus on enjoying.
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Central, Right | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ritz Cracker | 26m | |||||
awesome jams broken up by a couple ledges
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Party Till Yer Blind | 27m | |||||
commiting start on lead (also for following). great movement but finicky gear
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
just a long route. a couple good moves, but not a 4-star route. wasps in a crack 2/3 of the way up
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Ritz Cracker Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 18m | |||||
pumpy fun line
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Thu 26th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Layback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
fun, can be jammed instead of laybacking. smeary feet that would not be good to loose while in the finger lock though...
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fun route with good moves through different sections of climbing
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
decent long route. not very continuous
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | |||||
slabby, balancy cruxes
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | |||||
fun jug haul
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5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | |||||
slippery feet in the dihedral, not a gimme
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Fri 20th Aug 2021 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | |||||
Climbed it after rain. Wall is very slippery. Some dirt were washed down in the hand holds. Crux at the bottom and one third of the wall. I had to grab QuickDraws for a few moves. Then it rained about 5 minutes just to get the wall more wet before Glory followed. I had to haul her for half of the climb.... Top out can connect to the endless trail.
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Sun 29th Nov 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area The Coliseum | |||||||
9a+ 5.15a | Full Metal Brisket | ||||||
#FA Each crux a little harder than the last, culminating in a heartbreak three finger razor crimp at the bitter end. Felt considerably harder than Superpod, and took a good number of days to sort out in generally great conditions. Quite proud to be the one to climb this legendary project!
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Sat 14th Nov 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area The Coliseum | |||||||
8c 5.14a | ★★★ Still Life | 20m, 7 | |||||
Damn. A complete masterpiece. The rumors are true!! Same day as Super Pod. So psyched on the New right now!
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9a 5.14d | Superpod | 27m | |||||
Totally desperate (!!) crimp boulder after the most lovely 8a ever. Low in the grade. 4 tries.
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Tue 10th Nov 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
7a 5.11c | ★ Steve Martin's Face | 24m | |||||
Trad Tricky gear!
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7b 5.12c | ★ Chorus Line | 26m, 4 | |||||
Trad A journey through time and space with zero chalk, holy moly. This would be 7c+ in Tensleep ha!
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Sun 8th Nov 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Thieves Area | |||||||
7b+ 5.12c | ★ Portly Gentleman's Route | 18m | |||||
#2go Trad Honestly felt harder than Acharya, ha! Wicked route. Respect to G double!
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Fri 23rd Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Narcissus Cave | |||||||
5.7 | ★ That Eight - with Rachel Burland | 21m, 5 | |||||
warmup
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass | 12m, 4 | |||||
tricky scary little roof section. Lots of loose sections of rock
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Nice long climb, with a few loose blocks. Really reminded me of the 15 and 16 at Little Triggers Wall at Bardens Lookout!
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Club | |||||||
5.9 | Hidie Hidie Ho | 18m | |||||
I liked this one, varied face and slab climbing, with some technical tiny holds, flake and juggy arete! ... and some vegetation in between!
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5.10a | His | 18m | |||||
not super fun
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5.10b | Copper-Colored Transitions | 12m | |||||
Super fun pumpy climb
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5.8 | Diggie Diggie Doo | 18m | |||||
was hard for a 5.8... or at least for my first in awhile...
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Wed 14th Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Satisfaction Area | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lickity split | 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Be careful not fall from the early start since the tree is right behind the route. Fun to use the tree though.
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Satisfaction Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Satisfaction Guaranteed | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Every you want it has. I tried hard to onsight it!
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Perot Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Trigger Happy | 9m, 4 | |||||
The start is hard.
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5.10c | ★ Gun Lust | 4 | |||||
Fun route, couple traverses.
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Thunder Struck | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It's so fun when you know all the betas. Would come back for it!
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10a | Play it by Ear | 20m | |||||
It could be 5.10b.
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5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | |||||
Two tries so far. I was so pumped after climbing over the roof that I almost could not bear the good jugs near the anchor. Cool ledge climbing and big movements.
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Wed 7th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | |||||
So happy to onsight it. You really need to know how to rest on this route.
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Sun 4th Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Orange Oswald Wall | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Barfing Butterfiles | 7 | |||||
Couldn’t get through the smooth face climbing even before the roof. It’s a big move for me to reach a small crimp after my right heel hook was set up and pulled myself up to right.
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Sat 3rd Oct 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Chewy | 12m, 4 | |||||
Fun route with classic NRG big reach.
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5.9 | ★★ Personal Pronoun | ||||||
Fun route with nice movements.
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5.10b | ★★ For What? (For What? (aka Hot'n'Bothered)) | 4 | |||||
Cool route.
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5.11c | Spice | 5 | |||||
The bolts are rusted a little bit. While the roof part is really cool, climb over it is not easy since there is only some small jugs up there.
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Long Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Maximum Overdrive | 6 | |||||
nice climb. but the bolts wander like a motherfucker without a leash.
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - Summersville Lake | |||||||
Main Area Satisfaction Area | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ Satisfaction Guaranteed | 18m, 8 | |||||
brutal climb. crimpy fuckers eat your hands alive. the roof is cool then youre all pumped out and have to deal with slopey holds till the finish. has a wide variety.
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - Meadow River | |||||||
Upper Meadow Second Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Frog Hunt - with Rachel Burland | 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
very fun. cool line.
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Tue 7th Jul 2020 - Meadow River | |||||||
Upper Meadow Third Buttress | |||||||
5.7 5.9 | ★★ Lieutenant Tomek | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
very fun
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5.9 | ★★ Lieutenant Tomek - with Rachel Burland | 17m, 8 | |||||
one nasty slopy ledge but great other than that.
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Mon 6th Jul 2020 - Meadow River | |||||||
Upper Meadow First Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Lady Punk - with Rachel Burland | 24m, 7 | |||||
great. pretty. can shake out every 3/4 holds
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