Showing all 98 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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Parking Area Wall | |||||
5.7 | Fat Boy's Pork Palace
Trad, corner, a set of cold shut anchors has recently been added. FA: Unknown | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Limestoned
First sport route to be established at Franklin. 6 bolts, ring anchors. FA: John Burcham | 19m | |||
5.10b | ★ Wild Wild West
This route links the first 3 bolts on "Route of All Evil", to the last bolt on "Limestoned". 6 bolts, plus ring anchors. A grade of 5.10- is more accurate. FA: Michael Fisher | 19m | |||
5.10d | ★ Route of All Evil
7 bolts, shuts. 5.9 if you use flex flake, and bypass the upper arete & 7th bolt. FA: Michael Fisher | 7 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Lunar Debris
4 bolts, shuts. FA: George Powell | 15m, 4 | |||
5.10a | Odysseus
To the right of Lunar Debris. 5 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Mike Gray, 2007 | 16m, 5 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Two Blind Mice
6 bolts, ring anchors. High quality, and very sustained. FA: Michael Fisher, 2007 | 19m, 6 | |||
5.10a | ★ Squeal Like A Pig
7 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. This is the rightmost route at the Parking Area Wall. Look for the graffiti. 1st bolt & hanger were recently replaced. FFA: John Burcham | 17m, 7 | |||
Contact Zone | |||||
5.9 | ★ Raised by Sasquatch
A testy, two bolt route, with FIXE Super Shuts at top. | 9m, 2 | |||
5.6 | ★ Sticks & Stones
To the right of Raised by Sasquatch. 6 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. Don't miss the 4th bolt, although it is somewhat hidden, it is directly above the 3rd. A decent moderate route. FFA: M. Fisher & M. Gray, 2008 | 18m, 6 | |||
5.7 | Days Gone By
A trad route, in the corner to the immediate left of Barney Rubble. FA: George Powell | ||||
5.11b | ★ Barney Rubble
5 bolts, then traverse right to the anchors of Potential Energy. | 14m, 5 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Potential Energy
On the steep arete, passing 5 bolts, and finishing at a set of ring anchors. An excellent route. Some parties prefer to clip the 1st bolt on "Barney Rubble", to provide added safety reaching the 1st bolt. | 15m, 5 | |||
5.12b | ★★ Shizzel
This route is located in between Potential Energy and Dynosaurus. FFA: UNKNOWN | 17m, 8 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Dynosaurus
FFA: Eddie Begoon | 18m, 7 | |||
5.11d | Roofasaurus
Another excellent contribution by D. Hensley, bolted on lead. FFA: Darrel Hensley FA: Darrel Hensley | 19m, 6 | |||
5.7 | Hoss Corner
Traditional route, rappel from tree on ledge. FA: unknown | ||||
5.11a | The Grey Matter
This was an open project, to the right of Roofasaurus, with a proposed grade of 5.11a. The bolts have been installed, and the first ascent was done by Brian D. aka "The Tall Man". No further information is available at this time. FA: Brian D., 2008 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Hello
5 bolts, finish at anchors of Lost Planet Airmen. Original topo suggested use of medium cams. A #1 Camalot should be sufficient. FA: Eddie Begoon | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Lost Planet Airmen
6 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Eddie Begoon | ||||
5.10a | ★ Burcham's Beach
6 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. A bit of a sandbag. Originally rated 5.10a, but current consensus suggests that heavy traffic has polished and/or broken some holds, leaving this route a letter grade or so harder. FA: Howard Clark | ||||
5.9 | ★ Aloha
Summer 2009: bolt hangers & top anchors replaced. FA: Michael Gray | 15m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★ Break the Chain
8 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. This route is described by many as an atypical Franklin route, offering a little something different in terms of holds. A very fine route, with cryptic & committing movements. FFA: Mike Artz ? | 18m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ route deleted
All fixed anchors have been removed from this route, due to the unsafe condition of the original hardware (non-welded 3/8" cold shuts as bolt hangers, lap-links, etc.), and a few close calls. Name of this route is "Deeper Shade of Soul". FA: Mike Artz | ||||
5.10c | ★★★ Moment Of Clarity
6 bolts, finishing at a set of anchor chains w/ carabiners. Begin by scrambling onto the ledge above the trail, the 1st bolt can be reached from there. FFA: Michael Fisher, 2006 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.10c | ★ Eddie's 10c Roof
From the trail, scramble up to a book. Climb the book, passing two bolts, and clipping a third at the lip of the roof above. Pull the roof on good holds, and continue up the head wall passing two more bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. Another great route, and one of the driest at the crag. FFA: Eddie Begoon | 5 | |||
5.9 | unknown #1
Quite a ways up to the first bolt, with groundfall potential of 50 feet or more. Possibly a mixed route...some bolts, leading to a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. Little else is known about this route. FA: unknown | 25m, 5 | |||
5.10a | ★ Franklinstein
7 bolts, cold shut anchors. Climb the face past two bolts, to reach a very large ledge system. Walk left across the ledge, passing a good bit of loose rock, to reach a bolt at the lip of an overhang. Excellent 5.9ish climbing passes 4 more bolts and ends at a set of cold shuts. FFA: Michael Gray | 19m, 7 | |||
Impact Zone | |||||
5.11c | route deleted
Route decommissioned in March 2008, due to safety concerns (2nd bolt was falling out, others were "shimmed" with glue). | ||||
5.12a | ★★★ One For One
3 bolts, with a pair of rings at the top. FA: Darrel Hensley | 9m, 3 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Blood, Sweat, & Chalk
9 bolts, finishing at a set of chains. FFA: George Powell | 9 | |||
5.10 | ★ Almost Heaven
5 bolts, finishing at a set of ring anchors. An obscure route, situated on a ledge system above the trail. FFA: Michael Fisher | 5 | |||
5.9 | route deleted
Bolts were removed on September 6th 2008, as requested by the first ascent party. This route is named "No Stoppin' The Burn". FA: Michael Gray | 9m | |||
5.11b | ★★★ unknown #2
One of Franklin's best, but well "hidden" routes. 4 bolts, cold shut anchors at top. FA: Eddie Begoon | 10m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★ No Weld
A little run-out, til you get to the lip. FA: Mike Artz | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Wintermute
6 bolts, fishing at a set of ring anchors. UPDATE: New top anchor bolts were installed, Spring 2009 FFA: Michael Gray, 2006 | 20m, 6 | |||
5.9 | Hand Job
5 bolts, Metolius rap hangers at top. Starting at the trail, climb short vertical face to a BIG ledge, passing one bolt before the mantel. Continue across the ledge, scrambling up low angled rock to the second bolt. Climb steepening rock, passing another bolt or two, gaining a small roof. Clip another bolt, pull the roof, climb a short headwall to reach the anchors. FA: The Bum Guides | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Persephone
4 bolts, cold shut anchors. First bolt is very high up, on moderate terrain, but well out of stick-clip range...use your head. FA: Michael Fisher, 2008 | 19m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Castaways
4 bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts. FFA: Tracy Begoon | 13m, 4 | |||
5.7 | ★ First Aid
4 bolts, plus ring anchors (recently added). FA: Michael Fisher | 10m, 4 | |||
5.10b | ★ unknown #3, AKA: Eddie's Arete
3 bolts, now has ring anchors. A testy little route. FFA: Eddie Begoon | 10m, 3 | |||
5.10d | ★ Captain Hook
It has been reported that, as of August 2010,the top anchors are missing on this route FA: M. Fisher | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Trident
4 bolts, plus ring anchors. A complete top anchor replacement, including bolts, was done on this route on May 3rd 2008. UPDATE: Bolts #3 & 4 were replaced, Spring 2009. FFA: Mike Artz | 17m, 4 | |||
5.11b | The Bends
5.11c, this is a left finish variation of Decompression Sickness, pulling through the big roof at the end. 9 bolts, chains at top. A very solid route, another testament to the strength of Mr. Begoon. A strong and rather tall young climber from NC once called this one of the "meatiest" routes at Franklin. FA: Eddie Begoon | 13m, 9 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Decompression Sickness
7 bolts + ring anchors. Begin just left of "Barnacle Bill", the run to bolt #2 is definitely a "No Fall Zone". Climb past bolts, tending left after the shake-out, then up to a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up to anchors. FFA: George Powell | 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Walk The Plank
Start on Barnacle Bill, clipping the first 3 bolts, then go left to a good rest, and then through overhang. An excellent route. FFA: John Burcham | 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Barnacle Bill
9 bolts, ring anchors. All remaining cold shuts were replaced with standard hangers in 2008. FA: Begoon/Clark | 21m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Anchors Aweigh
Starts on ledge, to the right of Barnacle Bill. 4 bolts, ring anchors at top. FA: George Powell | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Super Amazing Sea Monkeys
Situated on the large but exposed ledge, climb the multi-teired overhangs, to a bolt in the last tier. Continue over the lip, and finish at a set of ring anchors. A nice, gymnastic route. FFA: John Burcham? | 10m, 5 | |||
5.10d | Keelhauled
To the right of Super Amazing Sea Monkeys, 4 bolts, uses anchors of Belly of The Whale. FA: Darrel Hensley | ||||
5.8 | ★ Belly of The Whale
Through the key hole, last bolted climb on the ledge section. Has been re-bolted and now has one additional bolt from what most guidebooks say. FA: Michael Gray | 10m, 5 | |||
5.12b | Skid Mark
This is a burly trad route, located about 15 yards to the left of Neptune. Climb moderate terrain to reach the big roof. Climb the slitter crack out the roof, and follow the crack up the short headwall. There is no fixed protection, save for a set of Metolius rap hangers at the top. FFA: Sam Powell | ||||
5.9 | Wasp Stop
All hangers removed in March 2008, due to safety concerns (aging & corroded bolts). FA: Eric Anderson | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Neptune
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5.10a | ★★ Aqualung
Said to have been the original benchmark for 5.10a at Franklin. Left start is the original line (7 bolts, ring anchors). A right start (3 bolts) was added later. | ||||
5.10d | ★★ unknown #5, variation start to Aqualung
A right start variation to Aqualung, 3 bolts, then finish on Aqualung. FA: Ed Begoon | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Shipwrecked
5.9, 7 bolts + ring anchors. Very high quality. FA: George Powell | 23m, 7 | |||
5.11d | ★ Hidden Treasure
FA: Crazy Charlie | 25m | |||
5.11d | ★ Bird of Prey
4 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Michael Fisher | 11m, 4 | |||
5.9 | ★★ The Last Laugh
8 bolts, ring anchors at top. Note: A #1 Camalot was used after the last bolt during the first ascent. An excellent route, which many climbers feel is very stiff for a 5.9, probably a 5.10-. FA: Michael Gray, 2008 | 23m, 8 | |||
5.8 | ★ Jump Start
3 bolts, plus ring anchors. FA: Michael Fisher | 10m, 3 | |||
5.12a | Davy Jones' Locker
8 bolts, cold shuts. To the right and just uphill from "Jumpstart". Climbing is very steep & sustained, passing five bolts to reach a chain dangling from above the lip of a sizable roof. Climb past the chain, clipping another bolt under the last roof. Powerful & delicate movement gains the final lip, and one more bolt. Pull the lip and continue to a set of welded cold shuts. FA: Clay Clarke, 2009 | 19m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★ Early Retirement
3 bolts, ring anchors at top. Very committing to the first bolt, with bit of a run-out to the anchors as well. Good quality movement, and very solid for a 5.10a. FA: Scott Prince | 13m, 3 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Rock Your World
4 bolts, rings at top. Steep, top quality. FA: John Burcham | 13m, 4 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Hard Thang
3 bolts. 2 sets of anchors exist...the FFA was to the right anchors. FA: Michael Gray | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Edge-U-Cate
3 bolts, & ring anchors. FA: Darrel Hensley | 13m | |||
5.11b | Mostly Harmless
Traverse right to big roof, then straight out. 4 bolts, plus anchors. FA: Darrel Hensley | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Room with a View
5 bolts, ring anchors. A classic route. FA: Van Eitel II & Scott Prince | 12m, 5 | |||
★★ unknown #7
A variation, diverging to the right, with a separate anchor. FA: Van Eitel II & Scott Prince | |||||
5.10b | ★★ unknown #8
5 bolts, ring anchors. FA: Van Eitel II & Scott Prince | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Jake the Snake
Trad route, with cold shut anchor at top. FA: Scott Prince | 13m | |||
River's Bend | |||||
5.11d | Sweet Dreams
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5.13a | Then I Fired the Gun
8 bolts, anchors at top. | ||||
5.11a | Wish I Were a Fisherman
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5.11d | Unnamed
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5.11b | Wish I Were a Golfer
4 bolts, plus anchors. | ||||
5.13b | Dehydration
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5.11d | Footloose
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5.11a | ★ Hell Cat
6 bolts, plus anchors. | ||||
5.10a | Blowing Mud
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5.12a | Dig Dog Dig (Left)
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5.10b | ★★ Dig Dog Dig (Right)
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5.12c | I Saw the Carrot
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5.13a | Flood Level
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5.13a | Reflections
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5.13c | Hell Fire
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Project (14a?)
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5.12c | Southside
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5.13a | Lizzie Borden's Axe
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5.9 | ★ Slush
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5.12b | ★★ Sanitary Fish Market
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5.13a | In Your Face
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5.12c | Get Well Card
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5.13b | Sick
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5.12a | Brand New Dance
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5.11c | Unnamed2
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The Ivory Tower | |||||
5.10a | Tusk
It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham. | ||||
5.10c | White Slaver
It is believed that The Ivory Tower routes were established by George Powell & John Burcham. |
Showing all 98 routes.