Routes in Whitney Portal

Corners to face climbing, bolted on some of the face.

Pitches:

1. 5.7. Gear. Gear anchors.

2. 5.7. Gear. Gear anchor.

3. 5.9. Gear & bolts. Bolted anchor.

4. 5.10a Bolts. Bolted anchor.

5. 5.10b bolts, to gear.

6. (optional) scramble/climb up and right, then walk-off.

Start as for "Beckey Route", but instead of stepping right above first roof, continue up and left.

Near the front of the buttress is a smaller buttress with bushes and a ledge on top. Start up either side of this buttress:

1. Climb a grovelly corner to a ledge. Up past more bushes to a an awesome crack in a corner. Stay left of the first obvious roof, pull up, step right, and belay at a tree and huge knobs. 5.7.

2. Look up at the huge roof. Step up and right to the arete, then up the exposed arete bypassing the huge roof to the right. Pull a small roof (crux) and then belay at good cracks. 5.9

3. Up thin face/slabs/intermittent cracks above with occasional dykes, until a bolt anchor appears to the left. 5.8

4. Run-out bolts up slab thin face and intermittent cracks and seams to another bolted anchor.

5. Up 200ft of mixed 4th class and easy 5th to the summit, generally trending rightwards.

1. 5.9

2. 5.9

3. 5.9

4. 5.6

7 bolts per pitch. Can do a single 70m rappel to ground from top anchor. Or two shorter raps .

1. 5.11c, 9 bolts, 35m.

2. 5.10b, 5 bolts, 35m.