Showing all 17 nodes.
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Sun Wall
If you've honed your slabbing skills enough that routes like the Nose and Peregrine seem tame, maybe it's time to move along to the Sun Wall. The infamous Titties and Beer is described by the guidebook as the "easiest way to the top of the Sun Wall," but it's not for the faint of heart -- and things only get harder from there. The Sun Wall offers an abundance of steep and intimidating climbs ranging up to the 5.12 level. |
5.9
★★★ Tits and Beer
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5.10d
★★★ Aerospace Cadet
This section of the Sun Wall is quite intimidating with some intense hand jamming. Aerospace Cadet is one of the easier routes up through the bulges. Weird climbing on the second pitch. Big bulgy slopers moves and mantles. Good pro when you need it. Location: Starts about 50 left of Out to Lunch, right side of an apron. Protection: Typical Glass Rack |
5.10d PG13
★★ Black Out
Climbs a sustained crimpy face past a bolt and piton. Then breaks out left under a roof heading towards fixed gear. Then heads up and gently right from bashy past more gear to a two bolt anchor. Location: 20 feet right of Out To Lunch. Protection: Small and mid size cams. A small (grey or purple) C3 may be used to back up the bashy above the roof. |
5.12d
★★★ The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test
Best route name ever. This is a beautiful piece of stone and one of the coolest routes in North Carolina. This climb requires a nice mix of power, finesse, and a bit of boldness. MUCH harder to lead than toprope, fall above the crux and its pretty much a mandatory 20 footer with slab smacking potential. The top eases off technically but pro is scant and thin. Location: Located on the Sun Wall, down and right from the Nose area, this climb is the obvious arching right facing corner. NOTE: This is the first pitch of Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man done free. Protection: Lots of RP's, small tcu's up to .75 camalot |
5.10d
★★★ Irish Jig
Steep 'brows with techy gear and good holds make this a worthy outing on the far right of the Sun Wall.
Location: Right of Ruby Tuesday at Southender. One Rap with two ropes. Protection: Standard Looking Glass stuff. Med. cams in the belay. Extra TCU's in smaller sizes helpful. Double ropes. |
5.11d
★★ Labia
This route shares the first pitch with Aerospace Cadet. If I recall correctly it was done in 81/82 . It starts about 50 feet left of Out to Lunch.
Location: On the Sun Wall left of Out to Lunch Protection: Standard Looking Glass Trad rack. Cams and Stainless Steel Testicles... |
5.11b
★★★ Le Pump
Much steeper than it looks; the pump is good the moves are better! The route climbs up and left through steep eyebrows with good pro and a couple of bolts to ease the mind. The crux comes after the second bolt. After these moves you head out right to the anchors of Out To Lunch. Location: This route is on the Sun wall 150' left of Tits and Beer. It is 10' to the left of a broken crack (Out to Lunch). Protection: 2 bolts; micro cams to .75. Rap rings at the top. |
5.11b R
★★★ The Legendary Nuclear Bomb
The best water groove ever. With TCU's (which they didn't have on the first ascent) the route may or may not deserve a solid R rating depending on how brittle your bones are / how lucky you are, but for all the cruxes you are a above your pro making for commiting climbing. The final crux bulge is a potential ankle breaker due to the fall onto a 65 or 70 degree slab from a vertical bulge when your feet are about 6 feet above gear.
Location: Obvious steep water groove just left of the Odyssey Protection: Doubles of cams to #2, one #3 including hybrids if you have them. may want some tricams too though I don't recall any key placements that only take tricams. many of the horizontals take bomber nuts too. |
5.10b
★★★ Nick Danger
Not actually dangerous except for one or two heady moves at the start of P1.
Rejoyce in your send of this Sun Wall Classic. Location: 100 yds rock right of Tits and Beer. 100 Yds rock left of Southender. Start at a low angle slab look for a slight left facing corner looking for a pin and a bolt. Rap from Irish Jig with two 60m ropes. Protection: Doubles in #1 and #2 cams are helpful. Double sets TCU's very helpful as well. Tri-cams are a great bet as well. P1 and P2 anchors are gear. Bolts at the top of P3. This is the rap station. 2 60m ropes to descend. |
5.11a
★★★ The Odyssey
This route is an Odyssey, and seems right on par for what a Sun Wall route should be. This is probably one of the easier routes on this wall to start out on.
Descent: Rap down Prey with 2 ropes. At the top, look for two bolts to the left of the Odyssey near two dead trees. I can't remember if it was 2 or 3 raps...it seems like 2, but I could be wrong. Location: On the Sun Wall. Take the Sun Wall trail, branching left off of the Nose trail at the appropriate time. The trail will hit the wall at a large apron, go left through a tree tunnel up to a nice little ledge under the "raven's roost" that the hard route "Prey" climbs over. This is a nice spot to rack up, but we saw a timber rattler here once, and another large snake. Take note of where Prey is (locate a line of bolts) then Odyssey is the second water streak to the right with a long crack starting about 50' up. Protection: Standard rack. I find extra .5's and .75's to be especially useful in the eyebrows, which there are a lot of on this route. |
5.10d
★★★ Out to Lunch
Great crack climbing up a steep wall. 3rd pitch may be sandbagged at 5.10d. Location:20ft Right of Le Pump Protection: Standard NC Rack |
5.10b
★★★ Pat Ewing
Location: Third route left of Southender on the Sun wall. Start at obvious hand crack. Approach from South Face parking area or Nose area. Former is easier. Descent: One two rope rap with 60s from P3 anchors gets you down. Protection: Singles from 00 to 0. Doubles from .1 to #2 Camalots. Single set stoppers. Long runners or double ropes. All belays are gear except for end of P3. |
5.12c
★★★ Predator
A super testpiece of "brow" climbing. The crux is down low pulling a move off the "spoon" hold but things stay exciting all the way to the top as each hard move comes just before clipping the next bolt. Beautiful moves but may need a bit of brushing off before a send can take place since its rarely climbed and the water streak may be a little dirty. Location: Park as for the Nose. Down and right from the Nose. Immediately right of the Psych Delusions/Acid Test corner is a black water streak with bolts. Protection: Bolts and maybe a couple of tcu's |
5.10 PG13
★★★ Ruby Tuesday
Really, really cool water groove/face climbing. This route was originally rated 5.10R. Its still pretty R (P1) but probably PG13 with small gear.
Location: First route left of Southender on the Sun Wall. Approach from South Face. Rap Irish Jig with two 60s from bolts. One rap will get you down. Beautiful black water groove. |
5.10b
★★★ Scotty Pippen
A var. of Patrick Ewing. Belay at the base of the P. Ewing hand crack. Climb the hand crack to the 2nd bolt of PE. For Scotty Pippen, go straight up past the 2nd bolt to a 3rd bolt at very crisp positive crimps. Power over the bolt thru shallow bulges and good gear being careful with the "potato chip" hold. Mantle thur another bulge at the base of a final bulge. Clip the bolt and make a long reach to an eyebrow and step over on the low angled face. Climb 5.6 'brows to a good .4 C4 and traverse back left to the gear belay at the top of PE P2. Two #2 camalots are nice at the belay. Finish on PE. Location: In between Pat Ewing and Nick Danger. Rap the Ruby Tuesday anchors with two 60s. Protection: Two bolts and gear. 4 bolts total counting the two on PE. Gear belays. |
5.9
★★★ Two Legged Snake
A long over looked classic that deserves a go! Climb eyebrows with gear and sculpted edges. Watch the rock change from polished granite to pebbly sand paper ending at a two bolt anchor. Location: Immediately left of T and B on the Sun Wall apron. Starts on a steep black face. Protection: Small cams, nuts and gear up to a one inch. Two bolts on pitch |
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