Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Bethel Area Crags Shagg Crag | |||||
5.10c | Unknown Name | 18m | |||
5.11b | Recombinant Dna | 27m | |||
5.4 | Standard Route | 11m | |||
5.10d | Patches The Clown | 27m | |||
5.12b | Loopy Noodle Butt Conspiracy | 18m | |||
5.12a | Death To The Queen | 18m | |||
5.11c | Pushes Little Daisies | 18m | |||
5.13a | The Ritual | 6m, 15 | |||
5.10b | Continental Divide | 30m | |||
5.11b | Deja Voodoo | 9m | |||
5.11c | Velvet Elvis | 9m | |||
V8 | The Raging Bull | 3m | |||
V8 | Grimas De Oro | 5m | |||
5.7 | Rhino Flake | 8m | |||
5.8 | Rough Rhino | 14m | |||
Gilead Rest Area | |||||
5.12b | Arachnophobia | ||||
Bemis stream | |||||
5.11+ | ★★★ The biggest jugs you'll ever fall off.
The start is at the dead tree under the roof. Big holds at the start and good feet. The direct line gives you crimpers with hard feet , to a throw to the roof. You can also skip the throw and go for a 2 finger sloper that is a high reach, but not as high as the jugs just over the roof. Once you get to the roof, you feel like you want to bail as you get pumped. The holds over the roof are sharp and cut into the hand. They make it hard to hold on. The grade for the direct route is 5.11a from what I am told. It seems harder than that to me, but it may no be. The second line is a left side variation. This brings you away from the bolted line. It is a little more run out if you try this ascent. Before you get to the shark tooth type crimper before the roof, head left. You will have to use the hold under the steep section before the roof with your left hand. Then you have to cross over to the tooth type hold out left with your right hand. It feels like you will barndoor here, but if you pull hard with your left hand, you will stay on. Then you reach up with your left hand to the shark tooth hold your right hand is on. Then throw up with your right hand to the crimper. Bring your left foot up to the big slopey section. Then reach up to under the roof with your right hand to a sloper. You can get 3 fingers on this hold. Then move your right foot out to the shark tooth type hold that is just by the bolt. Get your left hand on the sloper under the roof. It gets tough here. You have to get the left foot up on the slopey section that looks terrible. It holds you if you hold on tightly with noth hands. Then you have to throw to the jugs with your right hand. You will just about come off if you can stay on at all. Once you get this hold or the jugs, it gets awkward. The holdsa are big, but like the driect line, they cut. This is the variation to The biggest jugs you'll ever fall off. FA: Ray - from Lewiston | 16m | |||
5.11+ | ★★ There is a big jug right there - variation of "The Biggest jugs you'll ever fall off " | 16m | |||
5.12+ | ★★ Where have all the good jugs gone - variation of "The Biggest jugs you'll ever fall off " | 16m | |||
Quoddy Head | |||||
5.13d | Maniac
FA: Dan Goodwin, 1984 | ||||
5.12b | Stiletto
FA: Dan Goodwin, 1984 | ||||
5.11c | Yellow Dagger
FA: Dan Goodwin, 1984 | ||||
5.12b | Triangulation
FA: Dan Goodwin, 1984 | ||||
Fort Williams | |||||
V1 | Piece 0-Cake | 3m | |||
V2/3 | Blade Runner | 8m | |||
V0 PG13 | Web Crawler | 3m | |||
V1 | Flake Out | 3m | |||
5.8 R | Borderline | 8m | |||
Sebago Lake DWS | |||||
V1 | Small Frye's Flake | 6m | |||
Royal River Bouldering Park St. Public Way | |||||
V3 | Little Wing | ||||
Tracy Shore Boulder | |||||
V4 | Martha Stewart's Sofa Monolith | 3m | |||
V4 | Feel Cheerful | 5m | |||
V2 | To Scotland | 3m | |||
V1 | Big Groove | 3m | |||
V0 - 1 | Various Arêtes | 3m | |||
V0 | Wall With Ferns | 3m | |||
V0 | Noah's Arête | 3m | |||
V0 | Baby Aurora's Baby Arête | 2m | |||
V0 | Moss Icing | 3m | |||
V2 | The Barrel | 3m | |||
V2 | The Guillotine | 3m | |||
V1/2 | Overlook Wall | 5m | |||
Giant's Stair Bouldering Mini-Wave Wall Sector | |||||
V0 | Walling Up | 2m | |||
V0 | Cut-Back | 2m | |||
V0- | Grommet | 2m | |||
V0 | Death Wave | 3m | |||
Giant's Stair Bouldering Silverfin Sector | |||||
V0 | Silverfin | 3m | |||
Lisbon Falls Boulder | |||||
V1 | Warmups | 2m | |||
V4/5 | Maybus | 3m | |||
V5 | Static Shock | ||||
V5 | Moxie Madness | 3m | |||
V7 | Head For Higher Ground | 3m | |||
Clifford Park | |||||
V0 | Unamed | 5m | |||
VB | The Pinnacle | 5m | |||
V0 | Rock Slug | 3m | |||
V0 | Stand And Deliver | 3m | |||
V1 | The Peace Stem | 5m | |||
V1 | Very Unnecessary | 8m | |||
V1 R | Bonsai | 8m | |||
V1 | Spinal Flake | 3m | |||
V1 | Starfish | 6m | |||
V1 | Magic Bean | 5m | |||
V1 | Sound The Alarm | 6m | |||
V2 | Lady Slippers | 5m | |||
V2 | Tetanus | 6m | |||
V3 | Murder Rocks | 5m | |||
V3 | Eaten Alive | 5m | |||
V3/4 | Fancy Toes | 3m | |||
5.5 | Slabcrack | 8m | |||
5.7 | Iron Spike | 14m | |||
5.7 | Get Off My Lawn ! | 14m | |||
5.8 | Sea Legs | 8m | |||
5.9 | Iron Arête | 14m | |||
5.9 | Squasher | 14m | |||
5.10a | Iron Roof | 14m | |||
Sugarloaf Region Carrabassett Valley Boulders Tufulio's Boulders | |||||
V0 - 1 | Super Sloper | 3m | |||
V0 | Moosehead On Tap | 2m | |||
V1 | Arête Problem ? | 5m | |||
V1 | Pumpkin Head | 3m | |||
V2 | Cross Cut | 5m | |||
Sugarloaf Region Carrabassett Valley Boulders Poplar Stream Trail Boulders | |||||
V2 | Another Day In Paradise ? | 3m | |||
Shell Pond Below High Meadow Wall Boulders Trail Side Boulder | |||||
V3 | The Civilian | 3m | |||
V6 | Search Warrant | 3m | |||
V6 | Blast Furnace | 3m | |||
Shell Pond Below The Family Wall Boulders The White Boulder | |||||
V3 | Case Study | 3m | |||
V6 | Honorable Discharge | 3m | |||
Shell Pond The Void Boulders | |||||
V4 | Badass | 5m | |||
V5 | Elbow Grease | 3m | |||
Shell Pond The Family Wall | |||||
5.9 | 3 Climbs Left Of "the Trunk" | 24m | |||
5.5 | The Trunk | 27m | |||
5.9 | Moose Du Jour | 27m | |||
5.10a | Chocolate Moose | 15m | |||
5.7 | Flake Route | 30m | |||
5.9 | Moose's Leap | 30m | |||
5.10a R | Mr. Moose's Wild Ride | 24m | |||
5.8 | Bubblecuffer | 24m | |||
5.8 | Four Routes To The Right Of Slab | 24m | |||
5.2 | School's Out | 24m | |||
Shell Pond High Meadow Wall | |||||
5.11b | Science Project | 27m | |||
5.10a | Captain Dinghy | 30m |