Ascents in Minnesota having Beta

Sierra Madre 12a

powerful but doable. took a couple times throughout the route. first roof left hand into slot right next to bolt, then right hand into slot directly above, then left hand out to left sidepull thing. second roof, bump right hand, left hand up to great slot, toe on edge then big move right to hold with right hand.

TR clean. enjoyable route

great route. careful getting second bolt clipped

fell at crux and took a few tries to get through it. right hand pinch, left hand side pull, left hand Gaston on shark tooth, right hand Gaston on side pull block, left hand to mono pocket

tough middle section, but leads well. get stood up on feet at first clip. crux in middle. clip third bolt from upper left crimp, then right foot up to polished slopey thing? then dynamic move to jug out left. set feet and go for ledge.

tough crux section between huecos. Give a session on top rope to work out the right beta. straight up probably won't work; work left then back right

hand jams!

send! from jug at top: right hand up to hueco, left hand to top slot, right hand to bottom slot, left hand to dihedral corner

TR solo on headwall for pictures

TR solo in approach shoes clean. great hand crack in a dihedral with crumbly rock above and below

Fell at crux. Tried to climb straight up the finger crack, gets hard 2/3 of the way up. Instead, reaching left (maybe using the right hand pinch?) to the sidepulls, getting feet up, then reaching to the ledge feels easier. A "jug" is to the right of the crack which might help getting into the loose finger crack above. high left foot onto a small edge. remains tough for a few more moves, but the hand jams are there to rest. awesome hand jams to start.

clean. good quick warm up route

great route - maybe the most enjoyable for me at red wing

go straight up at second bolt to ledge, then heel hook right

at 4th bolt: right hand in pocket side pull, work feet up (high right foot), left hand up to Gaston, right hand to jug

got the crux sequence on my third try, no other falls. keep body by left face, side pull hard on top pod with a rand smear in crack and right foot on smeary bulge.

TR clean, started right hip in, then switched to left hip in at ledge

Super fun movement on the bottom 1/2. Tough arete climbing on loose rock for the top 1/2. At crux left heel jug, left hand side pull around arete , right hand to 3rd pod with thumb catch, left hand upper crystal side pull, right hand to pocket. Then, stay within 1 arms length of arete, first left on crumbly cracks, with a section of easier climbing on the right side before finishing on the left side in the good finger sized crack.

TR clean

TR clean

TR rope solo clean

use right hand crimp at top of crux rather than pinch. 1-hung the beginning.

to get up to crux, left hand good pinch, work your way up the right side of the bolts, right hand up to side pull in drill hole. at crux, start with right toes facing down, then spin to standing up. left hand throw to ledge

high foot, right hand crimp crux. traverse right immediately after crux

left hand side pull, right hand slot, high right foot, stand up into right hand side pull. Small gear that you don't want to test

TR clean. great route. a mix of delicate stemming, hard crimping, and pulling hard on a small crack.

TR clean. bottom pitch not worth doing: balancy crimps on crumbling rock. top pitch has some good moves, but the final headwall is the best part. the holds are there to go straight up!

TR clean.

still an awesome route. TR clean

TR clean. good jams

decent holds, and some fun moves, but the wandering nature of the route and alternate paths (some of which are dead-ends) make this just an okay route

fun route. crux comes at the middle: right and left hand side pulling on crimps, stand up on good edge, right hand into press, work feet, left hand to crimp above undercling, work feet, then to great pocket

probably not as good as it once was, but still a couple fun moves. no stick clip required. totally possible to clip old bolt #3 around corner. work feet onto arete with left hand in pocket, bump up right hand side pull, then big move left to rail. decent edge at the top. top out left or right, just commit.

fun sustained route. beta notes: high left foot, left hand into small two finger undercling pocket. layback left on decent edges, then right foot out right to a good foot hold, then right hand to pocket. right hand side pull, left hand pocket straight up, right hand out right to good friction pinch, work feet, right hand bump to side pull, work feet, then left hand high to large pocket?

did the direct start

holds out left are tempting, but all the holes are there to go straight up, sticking slightly right of the bolt line

Better top roping than leading

pumpy route. sorting feet out above the first roof was the crux

fell going to the crumbly ledge at the anchors. correct beta: get into the dihedral at the level of the gaston. Key left foot at the edge of the roof

had to take at the two final 2 finger pockets. ended up switching the left hand jug into an undercling and going straight to the good ledge