Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval - with Mark Hoggard | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
pretty burly for a slab. Found the perfect thumb pinch hold..
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Mon 13th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Zag - with Mark Hoggard | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
found the start to be quite demanding but maybe it was just sore muscles from super crack..
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Sun 12th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Thunder Buttress | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Super Crack - with Mark Hoggard | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wow, this was quite the journey. Takes you through a chimney, cruxy overhang, fairly enjoyable crack, gnarly chicken wing, and steeeeeep finish. Forgot to breathe for the last 5 mins. Mega!
Took so much out of both of us that we packed up and went for a swim in the New lol
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Sat 11th May 2024 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fantasy Area | |||||||
5.8 | ★★★ Fantasy - with Mark Hoggard | 40m | |||||
P1 offers mild crack climbing with a couple of hard moves to get situated in the crack. If you are reading this, do yourself a favour and stop at P1 anchor. The top out of P2 is caked with runoff (May 2024) which resulted in a 2hr ascent. The two crimps below the anchor were filled with mud leading to some type 2 fun.
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Mon 27th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult | 27m | |||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | |||||
Mon 27th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
Sat 25th Nov 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Cottonmouth | 6 | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ End of Innocence | ★★★ Classic | |||||
5.11b | ★★ Q-Tip | 7 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Cottonhead | 12m | |||||
Thu 12th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ G-String | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice climb. I wore my thongs to belay Dave and had to explain joke
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5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Much easier than all the 5.9 trad classics at NRG, could also be led on trad safely.
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Wed 11th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Exoduster | 14m | ★ Good | ||||
Fora short route it packed a punch. A gnarly warm up for me
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5.10b | ★★★ Party In My Mind | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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Sun 8th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Totally-clipse | 23m, 5 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
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5.10b | ★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
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5.9 | ★★ The Upheaval | 26m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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Fri 6th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Burning Calves | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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Wed 4th Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain The Brain | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Brain Tweezers | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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Tue 3rd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wow, this might be as good as rock climbing gets. Incredible climbing from beginning to end with an amazing view from the chains. I can't imagine anything that would make this climb better. The new 1st bolt for a direct start is definitely a huge win for this route. The roof is classic, the crack is cool and everything in between is heaven. I'm stunned and overjoyed!
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5.6 Hard | ★ Bobby D's Bunny - with Elliott Pryor | 21m, 9 | ★ Good | ||||
I thought this one was harder than the 5.8s and nowhere close to as enjoyable. Weird reachy crux at the 3rd quickdraw and then uninspiring wandery climbing after. Worth doing if you are 5.8 climber at this crag looking to do another pitch, but no one should do this climb before climbing the two 5.8s next door.
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5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl - with Elliott Pryor | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really nice climbing, I'd probably think it was all time if it weren't for its neighbor. Fun fist crack to start and then continuous climbing over and around bulges. For the 5.8 climber, this is totally a route worth doing, but it leaves a bit to be desired for the more seasoned climber.
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 Hard | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie - with Caleb Mattson, Sam, Chris | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bummer. I really expected this thing to be all time, and sure it was good but it certainly left a lot to be desired. The bottom was uninspiring and lacked a clear line, and many of the holds seemed chossy. Once you pull around to the right side of the arete, however, the route is amazing. Super fun face climbing on cool holds and even a sinker mono in the crux if you choose to use it. If the whole climb was as good as the last two bolts this thing would be all time but unfortunately that wasn't the case.
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Sun 29th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Junkyard Junkyard Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ New Yosemite | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
awesome start, slightly overhanging #1 hand jams with some option for footholds. eases up after pulling the bulge to 5.6-5.7 climbing
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5.9 | ★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind | 21m | |||||
more jugs than crack holds, but still fun.
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5.10a | ★★ The Entertainer | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
good crack climbing broken up by ledgy traverses, finishing with some decent face moves
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Star Trek Wall | |||||||
5.6 | Transporter Crack | 12m | |||||
wet
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5.6 | ★ Beam Me Up, Scotty | 11m | |||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Central, Right | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Ritz Cracker | 26m | |||||
awesome jams broken up by a couple ledges
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Star Trek Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★★ Crack Of The Klingons | 11m | |||||
Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Fern Point Party Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Party Till Yer Blind | 27m | |||||
commiting start on lead (also for following). great movement but finicky gear
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Kaymoor Slabs | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Fool Effect | 38m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
just a long route. a couple good moves, but not a 4-star route. wasps in a crack 2/3 of the way up
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Sat 28th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Ritz Cracker Area | |||||||
5.10 | ★ New Tricks For The Old Dog | 18m | |||||
pumpy fun line
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Thu 26th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Badass Tattoo | 26m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
fun route with good moves through different sections of climbing
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
decent long route. not very continuous
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5.9 | ★★ Crescendo | 18m, 6 | |||||
slabby, balancy cruxes
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5.10a | ★★ Zeitgeist | 26m, 10 | |||||
fun jug haul
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5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | |||||
slippery feet in the dihedral, not a gimme
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Wed 25th May 2022 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Top | |||||||
5.7 | Bio-Slab | ||||||
Tue 10th Nov 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Burning Buttress | |||||||
7a 5.11c | ★ Steve Martin's Face | 24m | |||||
Trad Tricky gear!
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7b 5.12c | ★ Chorus Line | 26m, 4 | |||||
Trad A journey through time and space with zero chalk, holy moly. This would be 7c+ in Tensleep ha!
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Sun 18th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Nice long climb, with a few loose blocks. Really reminded me of the 15 and 16 at Little Triggers Wall at Bardens Lookout!
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Sat 17th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Cotton Top Cotton Club | |||||||
5.9 | Hidie Hidie Ho | 18m | |||||
I liked this one, varied face and slab climbing, with some technical tiny holds, flake and juggy arete! ... and some vegetation in between!
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Thu 8th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Almost Heaven | 12m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11c | ★★ Moon Child Posse | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 8th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 8th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10a | Play it by Ear | 20m | |||||
It could be 5.10b.
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Wed 7th Oct 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
5.11c | ★★★ Sancho Belige | 23m | |||||
So happy to onsight it. You really need to know how to rest on this route.
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5.10b | ★ Springer | 23m | |||||
Thu 23rd Jul 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
Mon 6th Jul 2020 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.8 5.6 | ★ Bobby D's Bunny | 21m, 9 | |||||
did not climb like a 5.6 very deceiving start.
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5.8 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | |||||
Fri 15th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger | 24m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Bimbo Shrine | 24m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 14th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.12b | ★★ Hourglass | 26m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | |||||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger - with Jon Shen | 23m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 9th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Seven-Eleven Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Tony the Tiger - with Jon Shen | 24m | |||||
5.11d | ★★★ Scenic Adult - with Jon Shen | 27m | |||||
Thu 7th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Just Send It Wall | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Just Send It - with Jon Shen | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 7th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Fern Buttress Thieves Area | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Thieves In The Temple | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 5th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Jaws - with Jon Shen | 17m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.11c | ★★★ Marionette - with Jon Shen | 21m | |||||
Mon 4th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Bullet The New Sky - with Jon Shen | 26m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 4th Nov 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Blocks Area | |||||||
5.11d | ★★★ Disturbance - with Jon Shen | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 15th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Must do.
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Tue 15th Oct 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Diamond Point | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Strike a Scowl | 23m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful climb. Much more comfortable belay if you scramble up the V0 boulder.
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Sun 1st Sep 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Beer Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter | 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
first chimney ever
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Sat 8th Jun 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Five-Five My Ass - with Shane | 12m, 4 | |||||
Thu 25th Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall The Cirque | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ The Warm-up | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Actually a lot of fun... layback moves through the crack were great.
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5.12b | ★ Graffiti | ★ Good | |||||
Not the greatest route but I've been gunning for onsights and the crux looked defined so gave it a crack. Stuffed the beta and recovered, stoked!
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Wed 24th Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Beauty Mountain Super Mario Boulder | |||||||
5.5 | Guides Route, Left | 12m | Average | ||||
Well, now I can say I climbed trad at the New I guess.
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Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.12a | ★★ Pockets of Resistance | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First 5.12a onsight, stocked to do it on this short, crimpy, techy route.
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Mon 22nd Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor White Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Almost Heaven | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice climbing at the grade, and a perfect warm up for the type of climbing at the crag.
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Thu 4th Apr 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Endless Wall Snake Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Legacy | 27m, 10 | |||||
Tue 26th Mar 2019 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bridge Area Crags Bridge Buttress | |||||||
5.11b | Golden Summer (Golden Shower) | 11m | |||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Shady Lady | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Night climb
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5.9 | ★★ Mrs. Field's Follies | 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 27th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete (Rico Suave) | 20m | |||||
Sat 27th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie (Flight of the Gumby) | 24m, 9 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
Thu 4th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ The Green Piece | 21m, 6 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Low Voltage | 21m | |||||
Thu 4th Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Rico Suave Buttress | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | 20m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 3rd Oct 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Bubba City Tattoo Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ The Good Book | 18m, 7 | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Geisha Girl | 29m, 11 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Kinesthetica | 27m, 8 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Lieback and Enjoy It | 18m, 7 | |||||
Sun 16th Sep 2018 - New River Gorge | |||||||
Kaymoor Butcher's Branch | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Springer - with Ulfi | 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Techky
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5.10b | ★ Low Voltage - with Ulfi | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Reachy.
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