Ascents in Middle Spire having Beta

Great to run a few free solo laps to warm up.

One fall but close on the redpoint. Steep and pumpy!

Mike lead this, and had a bit of trouble with the thin slab section by the bolt. Possibly because I was seconding, but I had no problem at all -- looked at it, thought, then just climbed it with no difficulty.

The pull up over the roof is just awesome -- jugs, but big moves. Then more jugs up the face above, fun and easy.

Cockabooty has a few variations, we top-roped a variations with a 5.8 finish -- staying left to pull a few harder moves over the bulge at the end of the lay-back section.

A clean run before a clean lead.

To toprope it lead extremely well bolted Candyass.

Very soft and probably overrated extremely well protected sport .10. A lot of next to perfect rests between moves.

Bring a long 48" sling, #1 red and #2 yellow C4 + one shoulder sling, and a cordelette to toprope Harding's Other Chimney and Candyass.

Fun lead, solid protection (two long 48" slings, about 5 shoulder slings, Metolius cams from #00 gray to #2 yellow, one optional #3 blue C4 with extension at the very top crack).

My first try on the route was not successful - hangdoged just after reaching the vertical crack and placing a #1 blue Metolius cam in it.

Very soft. Good rests between moves.

A good crack climbing exercise. Perfect hand and foot jams all the way up.

Easy to toprope the lower half (green to yellow C4 to build an anchor).

Warm up climb.

It's easy to toprope Corn Flakes from Unnamed anchor by traversing to the left and setting a directional (green to yellow C4).

Very soft. Left variation is a good liebacking exercise. Right variation is much softer (probably .8).

To make it a little bit harder and more interesting climb it in approach shoes. I was unable to use some footholds with my Five Ten Guide Tennies so I smeared thru the crux. It was fun.

A good stemming exercise. Ensure you can do it smooth and fast before leading Fear of Flying.

A very soft and extremely well protected sport .10.

An easy warm up. Traverse to the left and topping out by The Prow (.10b, sport, well protected, soft) is recommended.

Nice moves up the face. Climbed just to the first bolted anchor and fooled around with rescue skills.

Great exposure. I popped in a cam to control swing between the first and second bolts.

Ow my toes. Linked with Penny Candy for the second pitch.

Nice moves up the knobby face. Traversing to bolted anchor shared with Candyland felt a bit sketchy.

Awesome basketball-sized knobs!

Awesome exposure coming around the arête.

Great fun pulling the roof and tying off knobs. Linked up with The Prow for the second pitch.

ss

great liebacks

great hends and feet all the way, first pitch only

eb

Excellent Pro

Sandbag rating. Keep some gear for an anchor at the top

Big time pendulum potential

Just fun climbing over crack/flake system.

Supposedly a highly rated climb, but i wouldn't mind not doing it again!

exposed face/arete climbing up to the top of the spire.

fun climbing on a hand crack and flakes

TR

thin crack in corner/dihedral system.