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Ascents in Phantom Spires

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 175 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10d Candy Ass Sport 21m, 7
Reed Welsh
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m
Reed Welsh
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.11c Lesbian Love Sport 34m, 9
Reed Welsh
Fell in middle section

 
5.10d 5.10d R T-Bone Trad
Reed Welsh
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side
5.10a Thanksgiving Mixed trad 27m, 1
Reed Welsh
5.10d Burnt Offerings Mixed trad 23m, 3
Reed Welsh
Right start

 
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Slow Dancer Mixed trad 21m, 2
Reed Welsh
5.10a Penny Candy Sport 12m, 3
Reed Welsh
Wed 3rd Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side
5.10d Burnt Offerings Mixed trad 23m, 3
Reed Welsh
Left start Fell getting into roof this time

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side
5.11a Steppin' Stone Mixed trad 7
David Jefferson
A bit of an awkward and uncomfortable start leads to a technical crux and then another powerful crux under the roof. Felt at least .11b to me.

 
5.10a Thanksgiving Mixed trad 27m, 1
David Jefferson
Just as good as the last time I did it, 4 years ago!

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire East Side
5.8 Regular Route Trad 40m
David Jefferson
Great to run a few free solo laps to warm up.

 
Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.11b Leaner and Meaner Trad 18m Very Good
David Jefferson
One fall but close on the redpoint. Steep and pumpy!

 
Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lost John
5.10b Turning Point Trad 46m Very Good
David Jefferson
Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Armadillo
5.10b Phantom of the Opera Sport 8 Very Good
David Jefferson
Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Uncle Max
5.10c Mean Moe Trad Very Good
David Jefferson
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Hard Up Trad 21m Very Good
David Jefferson
5.10b The Prow Sport 9m, 4 Very Good
David Jefferson
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lower Spire East Side
5.10c Last Lock-up Mixed trad 27m, 3 Very Good
David Jefferson
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lower Spire Northwest Side
5.10d Five Tendons Sport 24m, 6 Very Good
David Jefferson
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.7 Over Easy Mixed trad 21m, 1 Classic
David Gibbs
Mike lead this, and had a bit of trouble with the thin slab section by the bolt. Possibly because I was seconding, but I had no problem at all -- looked at it, thought, then just climbed it with no difficulty.

The pull up over the roof is just awesome -- jugs, but big moves. Then more jugs up the face above, fun and easy.

 
5.8 Cockabooty Trad 21m Very Good
David Gibbs
Cockabooty has a few variations, we top-roped a variations with a 5.8 finish -- staying left to pull a few harder moves over the bulge at the end of the lay-back section.

 
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Classic
David Gibbs
If the flakes weren't so intimidatingly hollow for so long, I'd rate it a mega-classic.

I lead the first (harder) pitch, Mike got the easy, with everything solid, second pitch.

 
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Twin Owls
5.10a (unknown name) Mixed trad 12m, 2 Classic
David Gibbs
Some very interesting moves up the initial crack with bad feet below, including at time a very high right foot. Definitely a cruxy sequence. Then a 2nd thin-holds crux around the first bolt. Very happy to get this clean first try.

 
5.8 Unnamed 5.8 Sport 11m, 4 Very Good
David Gibbs
This went clean, too. Some thin moves, here and there. Glad my slab technique is decent.

 
5.8 Unnamed 5.8 TR Top rope 11m Very Good
David Gibbs
After a couple false-starts on the opening thin moves, I managed to get them. Then the rest went clean first try.

 
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.6 North Ridge Trad Average
Ryan Nevius
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Classic
Ryan Nevius
Super classic! One of the best routes I've done at the grade. We all know what 5.9+ means...

 
5.11c Lesbian Love Sport 34m, 9 Very Good
Ryan Nevius
Crux at the start and half-way up. Barely touched the dike..maybe I was doing it 'wrong.' Hard.

 
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.6 North Ridge Trad Average
Ryan Nevius
Did it twice...so many winged ants at the summit. I was attacked! They were as thick as gnats!

 
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.9 Jugs Revisited Trad 55m Good
Ryan Nevius
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Good
Ryan Nevius
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Phantom Wall
5.11c Electra - with Jake Trad 30m Classic
Kole
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Gorilla Rock
5.8 Ko-Ko Box - with Jake Trad 18m Good
Kole
5.8 5.7 Ant Crack Left - with Jake Trad 18m Very Good
Kole
nice arete climb. difficult pro

 
5.8 Ant Crack Right - with Jake Trad 18m Average
Kole
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires True Grit
5.10a True Grit Trad 12m Average
Kole
Short with crux at bottom, hardly a real solo.

 
Tue 5th Mar 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
Wallin
Sat 3rd Nov 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.10d T-Bone Trad Good
Pavel Burov
Some route finding, some balancy moves.

 
Sat 3rd Nov 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.6 North Ridge Trad Don't Bother
Pavel Burov
80m rope is enough to rappel to the ground.

Climbing this route is probably the easiest way to toprope any route on Upper Spire.

 
Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
Pavel Burov
A clean run before a clean lead.

To toprope it lead extremely well bolted Candyass.

 
Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Good
Pavel Burov
Bring a 60m rope and a lot of shoulder slings to prevent rope drag. One pitch.

 
Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10b 5.10d Candy Ass Sport 21m, 7 Good
Pavel Burov
Very soft and probably overrated extremely well protected sport .10. A lot of next to perfect rests between moves.

Bring a long 48" sling, #1 red and #2 yellow C4 + one shoulder sling, and a cordelette to toprope Harding's Other Chimney and Candyass.

 
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
Pavel Burov
Fun lead, solid protection (two long 48" slings, about 5 shoulder slings, Metolius cams from #00 gray to #2 yellow, one optional #3 blue C4 with extension at the very top crack).

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
Pavel Burov
My first try on the route was not successful - hangdoged just after reaching the vertical crack and placing a #1 blue Metolius cam in it.

 
5.10d Candy Ass Sport 21m, 7 Good
Pavel Burov
Very soft. Good rests between moves.

 
5.10d Candy Ass Sport 21m, 7 Good
Pavel Burov
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire East Side
5.8 Regular Route Trad 40m Good
Pavel Burov
A good crack climbing exercise. Perfect hand and foot jams all the way up.

Easy to toprope the lower half (green to yellow C4 to build an anchor).

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.6 Unnamed 5.8 Trad 12m Don't Bother
Pavel Burov
Warm up climb.

It's easy to toprope Corn Flakes from Unnamed anchor by traversing to the left and setting a directional (green to yellow C4).

 
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Mega Classic
Pavel Burov
It's sustained. Eats a lot of small cams.

 
Mon 1st Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.10d T-Bone - with Sonia Trad
ben reardon
5.11c Lesbian Love - with Sonia Sport 34m, 9
ben reardon
5.9 Fear of Flying - with Sonia Trad 58m
ben reardon
Mon 1st Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Lean and Mean - with Sonia Trad 18m
ben reardon
5.9 Corn Flakes - with Sonia Trad 18m
ben reardon
5.10d Candy Ass - with Sonia Sport 21m, 7
ben reardon
5.10c Candyland - with Sonia Trad 21m
ben reardon
5.10a Penny Candy - with Sonia Sport 12m, 3
ben reardon
Sun 23rd Sep 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.10b Smoke House Brown Trad Average
Pavel Burov
An interesting start with a couple of thin moves and a boring straightforward soft finish.

Note, the bolt is very rusty and probably need a replacement.

 
5.6 North Ridge Trad Don't Bother
Pavel Burov
It's an easy way to reach to top of the Upper Spire (nice view). From there one can rappel to toprope any route.

 
5.10a Crispy Critters Top rope 24m Average
Pavel Burov
Soft. Some laybacking, some face moves.

 
Sun 23rd Sep 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Corn Flakes Trad 18m Average
Pavel Burov
Very soft. Left variation is a good liebacking exercise. Right variation is much softer (probably .8).

To make it a little bit harder and more interesting climb it in approach shoes. I was unable to use some footholds with my Five Ten Guide Tennies so I smeared thru the crux. It was fun.

 
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Good
Pavel Burov
A good stemming exercise. Ensure you can do it smooth and fast before leading Fear of Flying.

 
5.10b The Prow Sport 9m, 4 Good
Pavel Burov
A very soft and extremely well protected sport .10.

 
5.7 Over Easy Mixed trad 21m, 1 Good
Pavel Burov
An easy warm up. Traverse to the left and topping out by The Prow (.10b, sport, well protected, soft) is recommended.

 
Wed 4th Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 5.10b Fancy Dancin' Trad 21m Very Good
Hard Landin' Brandon
Nice moves up the face. Climbed just to the first bolted anchor and fooled around with rescue skills.

 
Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Super fun. We did it in 2 pitches. Bring big gear and lots of slings.

 
Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lower Spire East Side
5.10b 5.9 Jack Corner Trad 27m Very Good
Hard Landin' Brandon
Bolts out left of the top are difficult to see. My route-finding failed me and I managed to ascend the chimney before moving left to the last bolt. Looked like 1/4" bolts. Great moves, if a bit scary. Another one of those "5.9"s.

 
Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10a Penny Candy Sport 12m, 3 Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Great exposure. I popped in a cam to control swing between the first and second bolts.

 
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Very Good
Hard Landin' Brandon
Ow my toes. Linked with Penny Candy for the second pitch.

 
Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Shark's Tooth and Clam Rock
5.10a 3-Bolt Arête Sport 8m, 3 Very Good
Hard Landin' Brandon
Short, fun moves. Stand on the top and fight the vertigo.

 
Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.10d Candy Ass Sport 21m, 7 Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Nice moves up the knobby face. Traversing to bolted anchor shared with Candyland felt a bit sketchy.

 
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Mega Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Awesome basketball-sized knobs!

 
5.10b The Prow Sport 9m, 4 Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Awesome exposure coming around the arête.

 
5.7 Over Easy Mixed trad 21m, 1 Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Great fun pulling the roof and tying off knobs. Linked up with The Prow for the second pitch.

 
Sun 1st Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.10a 5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Mega Classic
Hard Landin' Brandon
Did it in 2 pitches, using up lots of nuts. Sustained stemming left me with some sore toes! Beautiful view over the other spires.

 
Sun 1st Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lizard Head
5.10c Lounge Lizard Mixed trad 9m, 6 Very Good
Hard Landin' Brandon
Great climbing, but not sure if it's worth the approach! I popped in a couple of extra cams to protect the crux between bolts.

 
Sat 24th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.7 Over Easy Mixed trad 21m, 1 Very Good
David Jefferson
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Very Good
David Jefferson
5.10b Fancy Dancin' Trad 21m Very Good
David Jefferson
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
David Jefferson
Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.6 North Ridge Trad Good
David Jefferson
Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Very Good
David Jefferson
5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Classic
David Jefferson
Sat 17th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Lizard Head
5.10c Lounge Lizard Mixed trad 9m, 6 Very Good
David Jefferson
Memorable mini summit.

 
Sun 1st Jun 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Slow Dancer Mixed trad 21m, 2 Good
shaunm
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
shaunm
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Very Good
shaunm
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Cornflakes Trad 18m Average
Kole
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Very Good
Kole
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Mega Classic
Kole
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Cornflakes Trad 18m Average
Kole
Mon 27th Aug 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.7 Cockabooty Trad 21m Good
Kurt Montgomery
5.7 Over Easy Mixed trad 21m, 1 Classic
Kurt Montgomery
5.6 Unnamed 5.8 (Unnamed) Trad 12m Good
Kurt Montgomery
Sun 1st Apr 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side
5.7 Ginger Bread Trad 58m Classic
David Walker
great .7 do as one super long pitch

 
5.9 Fear of Flying Trad 58m Classic
David Walker
awsome corner

 
Sat 31st Mar 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side
5.9 Lean and Mean Trad 18m Very Good
David Walker
5.10c Candyland Trad 21m Classic
David Walker
Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Lake Tahoe, California Side
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side
5.11b Harrison Direct Mixed trad 24m, 3
Jet Balili
ss

 

Showing 1 - 100 out of 175 ascents.

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