Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass | 21m, 7 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | |||||
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Lesbian Love | 34m, 9 | |||||
Fell in middle section
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5.10d 5.10d R | ★ T-Bone | ||||||
Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side | |||||||
5.10a | Thanksgiving | 27m, 1 | |||||
5.10d | ★ Burnt Offerings | 23m, 3 | |||||
Right start
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Fri 5th Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Slow Dancer | 21m, 2 | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Penny Candy | 12m, 3 | |||||
Wed 3rd Oct 2018 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★ Burnt Offerings | 23m, 3 | |||||
Left start
Fell getting into roof this time
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire Northeast Side | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Steppin' Stone | 7 | |||||
A bit of an awkward and uncomfortable start leads to a technical crux and then another powerful crux under the roof. Felt at least .11b to me.
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5.10a | Thanksgiving | 27m, 1 | |||||
Just as good as the last time I did it, 4 years ago!
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire East Side | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Regular Route | 40m | |||||
Great to run a few free solo laps to warm up.
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Sat 27th May 2017 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.11b | ★★ Leaner and Meaner | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One fall but close on the redpoint. Steep and pumpy!
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Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lost John | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Turning Point | 46m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Armadillo | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Phantom of the Opera | 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 4th Apr 2015 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Uncle Max | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Mean Moe | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Hard Up | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ The Prow | 9m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lower Spire East Side | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Last Lock-up | 27m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lower Spire Northwest Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Five Tendons | 24m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Over Easy | 21m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mike lead this, and had a bit of trouble with the thin slab section by the bolt. Possibly because I was seconding, but I had no problem at all -- looked at it, thought, then just climbed it with no difficulty.
The pull up over the roof is just awesome -- jugs, but big moves. Then more jugs up the face above, fun and easy. |
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5.8 | ★ Cockabooty | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Cockabooty has a few variations, we top-roped a variations with a 5.8 finish -- staying left to pull a few harder moves over the bulge at the end of the lay-back section.
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Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
If the flakes weren't so intimidatingly hollow for so long, I'd rate it a mega-classic.
I lead the first (harder) pitch, Mike got the easy, with everything solid, second pitch. |
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Sat 5th Oct 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Twin Owls | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ (unknown name) | 12m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Some very interesting moves up the initial crack with bad feet below, including at time a very high right foot. Definitely a cruxy sequence. Then a 2nd thin-holds crux around the first bolt. Very happy to get this clean first try.
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5.8 | ★ Unnamed 5.8 | 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
This went clean, too. Some thin moves, here and there. Glad my slab technique is decent.
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5.8 | ★★ Unnamed 5.8 TR | 11m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After a couple false-starts on the opening thin moves, I managed to get them. Then the rest went clean first try.
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.6 | North Ridge | Average | |||||
Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super classic! One of the best routes I've done at the grade. We all know what 5.9+ means...
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5.11c | ★★ Lesbian Love | 34m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crux at the start and half-way up. Barely touched the dike..maybe I was doing it 'wrong.' Hard.
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.6 | North Ridge | Average | |||||
Did it twice...so many winged ants at the summit. I was attacked! They were as thick as gnats!
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Jugs Revisited | 55m | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Phantom Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Electra - with Jake | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Gorilla Rock | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Ko-Ko Box - with Jake | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 5.7 | ★★ Ant Crack Left - with Jake | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
nice arete climb. difficult pro
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5.8 | ★ Ant Crack Right - with Jake | 18m | Average | ||||
Wed 1st May 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires True Grit | |||||||
5.10a | True Grit | 12m | Average | ||||
Short with crux at bottom, hardly a real solo.
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Tue 5th Mar 2013 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★ T-Bone | ★ Good | |||||
Some route finding, some balancy moves.
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Sat 3rd Nov 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.6 | North Ridge | Don't Bother | |||||
80m rope is enough to rappel to the ground.
Climbing this route is probably the easiest way to toprope any route on Upper Spire. |
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
A clean run before a clean lead.
To toprope it lead extremely well bolted Candyass. |
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★ Good | ||||
Bring a 60m rope and a lot of shoulder slings to prevent rope drag. One pitch.
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Sat 13th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10b 5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Very soft and probably overrated extremely well protected sport .10. A lot of next to perfect rests between moves.
Bring a long 48" sling, #1 red and #2 yellow C4 + one shoulder sling, and a cordelette to toprope Harding's Other Chimney and Candyass. |
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5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fun lead, solid protection (two long 48" slings, about 5 shoulder slings, Metolius cams from #00 gray to #2 yellow, one optional #3 blue C4 with extension at the very top crack).
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My first try on the route was not successful - hangdoged just after reaching the vertical crack and placing a #1 blue Metolius cam in it.
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5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Very soft. Good rests between moves.
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5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass | 21m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire East Side | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Regular Route | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
A good crack climbing exercise. Perfect hand and foot jams all the way up.
Easy to toprope the lower half (green to yellow C4 to build an anchor). |
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.6 | ★ Unnamed 5.8 | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
Warm up climb.
It's easy to toprope Corn Flakes from Unnamed anchor by traversing to the left and setting a directional (green to yellow C4). |
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Sat 6th Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
It's sustained. Eats a lot of small cams.
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Mon 1st Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★ T-Bone - with Sonia | ||||||
5.11c | ★★ Lesbian Love - with Sonia | 34m, 9 | |||||
5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying - with Sonia | 58m | |||||
Mon 1st Oct 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean - with Sonia | 18m | |||||
5.9 | ★ Corn Flakes - with Sonia | 18m | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass - with Sonia | 21m, 7 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland - with Sonia | 21m | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Penny Candy - with Sonia | 12m, 3 | |||||
Sun 23rd Sep 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.10b | Smoke House Brown | Average | |||||
An interesting start with a couple of thin moves and a boring straightforward soft finish.
Note, the bolt is very rusty and probably need a replacement. |
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5.6 | North Ridge | Don't Bother | |||||
It's an easy way to reach to top of the Upper Spire (nice view). From there one can rappel to toprope any route.
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5.10a | Crispy Critters | 24m | Average | ||||
Soft. Some laybacking, some face moves.
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Sun 23rd Sep 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Corn Flakes | 18m | Average | ||||
Very soft. Left variation is a good liebacking exercise. Right variation is much softer (probably .8).
To make it a little bit harder and more interesting climb it in approach shoes. I was unable to use some footholds with my Five Ten Guide Tennies so I smeared thru the crux. It was fun. |
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5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
A good stemming exercise. Ensure you can do it smooth and fast before leading Fear of Flying.
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5.10b | ★★ The Prow | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A very soft and extremely well protected sport .10.
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5.7 | ★★ Over Easy | 21m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
An easy warm up. Traverse to the left and topping out by The Prow (.10b, sport, well protected, soft) is recommended.
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Wed 4th Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 5.10b | ★★ Fancy Dancin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice moves up the face. Climbed just to the first bolted anchor and fooled around with rescue skills.
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Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super fun. We did it in 2 pitches. Bring big gear and lots of slings.
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Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lower Spire East Side | |||||||
5.10b 5.9 | ★★ Jack Corner | 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Bolts out left of the top are difficult to see. My route-finding failed me and I managed to ascend the chimney before moving left to the last bolt. Looked like 1/4" bolts. Great moves, if a bit scary. Another one of those "5.9"s.
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Tue 3rd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Penny Candy | 12m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great exposure. I popped in a cam to control swing between the first and second bolts.
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5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Ow my toes. Linked with Penny Candy for the second pitch.
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Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Shark's Tooth and Clam Rock | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 3-Bolt Arête | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Short, fun moves. Stand on the top and fight the vertigo.
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Mon 2nd Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Candy Ass | 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Nice moves up the knobby face. Traversing to bolted anchor shared with Candyland felt a bit sketchy.
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5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Awesome basketball-sized knobs!
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5.10b | ★★ The Prow | 9m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Awesome exposure coming around the arête.
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5.7 | ★★ Over Easy | 21m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Great fun pulling the roof and tying off knobs. Linked up with The Prow for the second pitch.
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Sun 1st Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.10a 5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Did it in 2 pitches, using up lots of nuts. Sustained stemming left me with some sore toes! Beautiful view over the other spires.
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Sun 1st Jul 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lizard Head | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Lounge Lizard | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climbing, but not sure if it's worth the approach! I popped in a couple of extra cams to protect the crux between bolts.
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Sat 24th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Over Easy | 21m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Fancy Dancin' | 21m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.6 | North Ridge | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 18th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 17th Mar 2012 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Lizard Head | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Lounge Lizard | 9m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Memorable mini summit.
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Sun 1st Jun 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Slow Dancer | 21m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Cornflakes | 18m | Average | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 19th Apr 2008 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Cornflakes | 18m | Average | ||||
Mon 27th Aug 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Cockabooty | 21m | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | ★★ Over Easy | 21m, 1 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 | ★ Unnamed 5.8 (Unnamed) | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 1st Apr 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire East Side | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Ginger Bread | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
great .7 do as one super long pitch
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5.9 | ★★★ Fear of Flying | 58m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
awsome corner
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Sat 31st Mar 2007 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Middle Spire North and West Side | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Lean and Mean | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Candyland | 21m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 29th Jul 2006 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||||||
Phantom Spires Upper Spire West Side | |||||||
5.11b | ★ Harrison Direct | 24m, 3 | |||||
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