Showing all 26 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
5.12d | ★★ Grand Delusion
A thin crack leads up to two bolts before traversing left past a row of pitons to a 2-bolt top anchor above a ledge. Pro to 1". Before it was freed, this was an aid route known as Scapegoat (5.8 A2). Top-rope this route by climbing 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] first. FFA: Chris Clifford | 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | ★★ The Podium
Fingers-to-fists crack leads to a wide chimney that leads up the right side of the Lobe, to the left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Descend by rappelling from the tree. | 15m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10 | Trumpled under Foot
Variation of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. | 15m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.11a | ★ Expresso
From the top of P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457], continue left up the line of bolts. Rappel back to the top of 'Pony Express'[20649457] to descend. FFA: Joel Moore | 5 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.9 | Crack Face | Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||
5.11b | ★ The Man Who Fell to Earth
Start up the crack shared with the start of 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205], then traverse up and left along bolts. Difficult face climbing past large knobs takes you to the 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'[20649205]. Pro: a 1" cam for the crack at the start. FFA: Paul Crawford & Dan Osman | 24m, 6 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10c | Hard Right
Pro to 2". | Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||
5.9 | ★ Pony Express
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5". FFA: Dick Long FFA: Gene Drake & Jim Hicks, 1970 | 61m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1953 | |||||
5.8 | ★ West Chimney
FFA: Warren Harding & John Ohrenschall, 1953 | 91m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1967 | |||||
5.10b | ★★ Fat Merchant Crack
Huge pro 5" to 12". FFA: TM Herbert & Royal robbins, 1967 | 61m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1968 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ TM's Deviation
FFA: TM Herbert & Bruce Cooke, 1968 | 91m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1970 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Pony Express
Many parties just do the excellent first pitch. Pro to 3.5". FFA: Dick Long FFA: Gene Drake & Jim Hicks, 1970 | 61m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1973 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Blind Faith
Start at the belay anchor atop P1 of 'Fat Merchant Crack'[20649769]. Follow the left-leaning corner up to the roof, then traverse right to finish with P3 of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985]. A dangerously sharp edge at the beginning of the traverse out of the roof has resulted in a fatal accident. The sharp edge may or may not still be there, but the risk can be mitigated by placing additional protection for the follower directly after the crux. FFA: Jim Orey, John Bowlin & Charley Jones, 1973 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | |||
1977 | |||||
5.12a | ★ Cry Uncle
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457] first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts. FA: Bill Todd, 1977 FFA: Tom Herbert & Paul Crawford, 1987 | 21m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10b | ★★★ Hyperspace
Pro to 1.5". FFA: Richard Harrison & Jay Smith, 1977 | 15m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10a | Twist and Shout
Start to the right of 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. Climb up the left-facing ramp to the top of the pedestal, and clip the first bolt. Steep face moves to the second bolt are followed by a right-facing corner to the top. Pro to 2", including micro-nuts. FFA: Joel Moore & T. Phillips, 1977 | 55m, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1984 | |||||
5.12a R | ★★ The Ghost in the Machine
Descend with 60m rope in 3 rappels past top anchors for 'Pan Dulce'[20649661] and 'Grand Delusion'[20649721]. Pro to 3", including micro nuts and slings for knobs. FFA: Ed Drummond & Mark Robinson, 1984 | 76m, 4, 20 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1986 | |||||
5.11d | ★ Back in Black
Start up the 5.6 chimney along the left side of the Lobe to meet the top of the 'Podium'[20649253] chimney. From here, a line of four bolts leads up and left. Powerful protected moves past the bolts are followed with a 40 ft of easy (5.6), runout climbing to the top anchor. Walk off, or descend with a 60m rope by rappelling to the anchors for 'Hyperspace'[20648887]. FFA: Jay Smith & Karl McConachie, 1986 | 4 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1987 | |||||
5.12a | ★ Cry Uncle
Thin edges on the bolted face lead up to a left-leaning 5.10d crack that is difficult to protect. Avoid fragile flakes. 2-bolt top anchor. Top-rope this route by climbing P1 of 'Pony Express'[20649457] first. Pro to 1", including micro-nuts. FA: Bill Todd, 1977 FFA: Tom Herbert & Paul Crawford, 1987 | 21m, 3 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1989 | |||||
5.11c | Only the Young Die Brave
Climb up the bolted arête with a crux above the 2nd bolt. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Man Who Fell to Earth'[20649103]. Pro to 4". FFA: Dave Kennedy, Will Chen & Mark Robinson, 1989 | 21m, 5 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.11b | Under the Spreading Atrophy
Start just left of 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Tenuous moves on thinner and thinner holds lead up the bolted face to a thin crack. Traverse right and finish with the last 30 ft of 'Pony Express'[20649151] to the shared chain anchor. Often top-roped after climbing 'Pony Express'[20649151]. Pro to 3". FFA: Will Chen & Mark Robinson, 1989 | 27m, 5 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1990 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Pan Dulce
Pro to 2". Descend by rappelling back down the route, or traverse around to the right to finish on 'Harding's Chimney'[20650297]. FFA: Dan Patitucci & Joel Moore, 1990 | 61m, 3, 2 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
1992 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Sugar Daddy
FFA: Joel Moore, 1992 | 2, 6 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
2001 | |||||
5.11d | ★ Ziplock
This horizontal line starts from the top of the first pitch of 'Bolee Gold'[20649985] and traverses directly left past 2 pitons. Small pro to 1". FFA: Aidan McGuire & John Robinson, 2001 | 27m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.10c | ★ Happy Face
A thin finger crack along an arête leads up to the first bolt. Continue up the arête for a couple of moves before climbing the face to the bolted top anchor. Pro: a couple of small pieces for the crack at the start. FFA: Aidan McGuire & Jerry Klatt, 2001 | 27m, 7 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
2011 | |||||
5.11b | Mackerel Sky
Ascends the face right of 'West Chimney'[20649505].
FFA: Aidan McGuire, 2011 | 37m, 2, 10 | Lake Tahoe, California Side |
Showing all 26 routes.