Off Balanced Rock Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Richard Pattison Steve Marr adam foss Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns Jaime Beecroft

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Off Balanced Rock 1 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Off Balanced Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.702178, -109.563467

summary

A large rock in the popular tourist vicinity of Balanced Rock.

approach

From the main Arches NP road turn-off towards the Windows area, there are pull-offs on either side of the road within 30 yards of the junction. It's a 5 min hike to the base.

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	Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Northeast Chimney The obvious weakness of cracks and ledges. P1) Climb diagonal cracks leading up and right, leading to a two bolt belay with chains at a comfortable ledge beneath an off-width crack. The climbing is a little awkward in places, but well protected in the cracks. Original P2) Straight up the unprotected wide crack/off-width, once it widens enough... get in there, moving right and chimneying up to the top. Recommended P2 variation) This is a safer option with protection. Move all of your gear to the front of your harness, or better, use a shoulder sling. Climb up just 2m from the belay (to head height), then squeeze into the wide crack walking sideways, it's about chest-width for a few steps. Shuffle along the dusty floor to the highest point of the chimney floor, the anchors are directly above that point. DO NOT continue along the chimney downhill to the daylight and wider section with crack, that's the P1 belay of "Camino" 5.10. From the highest point of the chimney floor, squeeze upwards as best you can, quite awkward, very much like canyoneering, there are some ledges slightly to the right, you're aiming for a crack 5m up where the chimney widens to a more comfortable width. You can protect the crack with cams and even pass a couple of stuck/fixed pieces. Exit into the daylight and rappel chains. The actual highest point of Off-Balanced rock is behind the chimney and requires a serious exposed unprotected move at 5.10+, probably best just to be satisfied being on the main bulk of the rock. Enjoy the views and wave down to the hordes of tourists at Balanced Rock. Descent: 2 rope rappel reaches the ground, or, 2 x 25m raps via P1 belay. FA: Unknown	5.7	Trad 160ft, 2

Route

Grade

Style

Selected ascents

★★ Northeast Chimney

The obvious weakness of cracks and ledges.

P1) Climb diagonal cracks leading up and right, leading to a two bolt belay with chains at a comfortable ledge beneath an off-width crack. The climbing is a little awkward in places, but well protected in the cracks.

Original P2) Straight up the unprotected wide crack/off-width, once it widens enough... get in there, moving right and chimneying up to the top.

Recommended P2 variation) This is a safer option with protection. Move all of your gear to the front of your harness, or better, use a shoulder sling.

Climb up just 2m from the belay (to head height), then squeeze into the wide crack walking sideways, it's about chest-width for a few steps. Shuffle along the dusty floor to the highest point of the chimney floor, the anchors are directly above that point. DO NOT continue along the chimney downhill to the daylight and wider section with crack, that's the P1 belay of "Camino" 5.10.

From the highest point of the chimney floor, squeeze upwards as best you can, quite awkward, very much like canyoneering, there are some ledges slightly to the right, you're aiming for a crack 5m up where the chimney widens to a more comfortable width. You can protect the crack with cams and even pass a couple of stuck/fixed pieces. Exit into the daylight and rappel chains.

The actual highest point of Off-Balanced rock is behind the chimney and requires a serious exposed unprotected move at 5.10+, probably best just to be satisfied being on the main bulk of the rock. Enjoy the views and wave down to the hordes of tourists at Balanced Rock.

Descent: 2 rope rappel reaches the ground, or, 2 x 25m raps via P1 belay.

FA: Unknown

5.7

Trad 160ft, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade		Stars	Name	Style	Pop
5.7		★★	Northeast Chimney	Trad 160ft, 2