Ascents in Oregon having Beta

Third T from the B, pretty dang hard for a V5 (guidebook grade) especially if you do the OG beta, skipped the pocket all together and went big with the right hand. Really fun boulder, and I suspect in the top 10 of Oregon.

30mph sustained winds and some vicious rope drag detracted a bit from the experience on this one. Still, the view was good, and it's always interesting to stand on a sea stack at the beach.

fun enough, 5 bolts, just bolts at the top

dirty, what a surprise... 5 bolts and just bolts at the top so you'll need to rap unfortunately

5 bolts with chains, very fun small and findy ledges

12 bolts total with chains at the top. these people need to learn how to count bolts. this route is stellar fun! must climb

17 bolts, 18 if you count the useless first one you can skip from the ground. extend everything after the OW area and into the face. bolts and chains at the top

mossy!! 8 bolts with chains at the top and a bunch of gross wiggly bolts

Fun route with the crux being the move out onto the face. Worked the route for about a year on TR till I was able to get the redpoint.

Very fun climb were the crux is right at the end.

Cool!

This was much more fun than I thought it'd be. Yay heel hooks!

TR. Couldn't get past ringlocks and a crack too narrow for my toes.

Struggled on TR. Skipped the low crux of the route and climbed the much easier upper half, which was quite fun.

Great fun! Watch for loose stuff below the crack.

Avoid. The book draws a topo line up a moss-choked seam, which strikes me as dubious and at odds with the recommended gear width. To the right of this is the 2.5" crack leading to the loose column. The low climbing is good, but after that everything is ugly. The loose column is dangerous, but you'll need to plug some gear around the stronger section of it. Above this bad gear, a run-out on chossy holds leads to a bush for a top anchor. I traversed to the Knobland anchor instead.

Great moves. Watch out for the loose hold near the first bolt.

Damn that was fun. Mother Nature crafted some wonderful handholds up the underside of this cave. The guide book describes the route as "contrived until you try it" and I'd agree. It felt strangely natural to stick to the steepest line. Fun knee bar! Tightly bolted -- I'll have to try this again on lead!

Link up. Clipped first 2 bolts of Captain Horatio Horn Blower, traversed right and finished on Aqua Man starting from the 2nd bolt. Good fun. Also led to a more interesting (and sustained) route.

with Laura. A couple of bolt placements were a bit awkward. Twice I placed gear only to find a bolt later. I personally thought the rock quality was least conducive to gear at the only spot where bolts are lacking! Still, there were a few fun moves and interesting pockets on the route.

TR'ed a (5/8/5.9) line mixing Beyond the Siskiyou Sky and this route. Some fun cracks and bulges to overcome.

Fun final move... Felt easy for 5.10a

Clean and quick

Fun warm up

(First part of link up with Fishhooks on the Whip).

(Second part of link up with White Slab Crack). Huge holds, fun moves. 3rd bolt is harder to clip if you're short, but there's a spot for a 0.5 C4 between bolts 2 and 3.

Solo.

For the camera

Not climbed often, the route was a little dirty. Bring webbing for rap anchor. Takes FULL 60m rope.

TOO MUCH MOSS, go to the north honeycombs, the south blows

MOSS, go to the North Honeycombs, the south honeycombs blows

moss, sucks

Beautiful.....funny crux 2nd pitch

good boulder warmup

The original ratings at the callahans complex were soft. Paradigm shift is actually 5.9 rating. The route starts with finger pockets then side pulls and underclings, offering friction for feet. The route then shifts to pure friction slab climbing for the final four moves. An absolute classic line.

good climb, a little mossy

very good climb, pumpy

good but mossy, slippery

started raining when i got on top