Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Portland Rat Cave | ||||||||
5.14- | Freakshow | 20m | Thu 1st Oct 2015 | |||||
#2go
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Portland Madrone Wall Fourth Class Wall | ||||||||
5.10+ | Cult Of Personality | 11m | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||||
Bouldery. Did all the moves, but hung repeatedly. I think I could redpoint this pretty quickly if I had it wired.
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Portland Madrone Wall Orange Wall | ||||||||
5.8 | Route Crafters | 17m | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||||
Nice warm up.
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5.10b | Orangotang | 15m | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||||
Fun, diverse climbing. Juggy overhang to techy crux pulling above a roof, to easy but thoughtful slab climbing. Stick clipped the high first bolt.
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Portland Madrone Wall Hardscrabble Wall | ||||||||
5.8 | Exodus | 15m | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||||
5.10c | Nouveau Riche | 18m | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||||
wooo! what a great route! .5 in right under the finger lock protects the ground Crux but the next few moves are pretty tough too, didn't place a piece till that was over but I think placing a piece before moving would be a lot safer. the true Crux for me was the middle which I was able to get through by using the far left horizontal halfway through the top of the finger crack because my fingers are too fat for all dat.
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5.7 | Electric Everything | 18m | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||||
5.10- | Windows Of Your Mind | 15m | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||||
biggest whipper of my life! #1 just below the v taken trying to pull the roof above = kicking your belayer in the back as you pass them touching toe tips on the ground. wowza. keep a bit right at the roof and gain the small right foot ledge then slot a . 3 to stave off ground fall devastation and then the right side pull on the roof will keep you really safe. don't do what I did.
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Portland Madrone Wall Main Wall | ||||||||
5.10b | Pillow Talk | 8m | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||||
Watched David climb this and really paid attention to his beta. Stick clipped the first bolt.
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5.9 | Catharsis P1 | 12m | Sat 19th Nov 2022 | |||||
Fun, athletic route. Stick clipped the first bolt.
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5.9 | Catharsis P1 | 12m | Thu 27th Aug 2020 | |||||
Portland Carver Rockgarden Wall | ||||||||
5.11- | Smerk | 17m | Thu 29th Aug 2013 | |||||
Onsight.
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5.11c | Uncola | 15m | Thu 29th Aug 2013 | |||||
Flash.
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5.11b | Notorious | Thu 29th Aug 2013 | ||||||
Second go.
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Portland Hagg Lake Road Slab | ||||||||
5.7 | The Brotherhood | Average | Thu 17th Feb 2005 | |||||
Portland Waterboard City Park Old Wall | ||||||||
5.9 | Ain't No Gimme | 8m | Average | Sat 17th Apr 2004 | ||||
To wet and muddy
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Portland Waterboard City Park The Slab | ||||||||
5.8 | Crack Walk | 6m | Average | Sat 17th Apr 2004 | ||||
First true lead where I placed my own pro.
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Portland Broughton Bluff Mean Street | ||||||||
5.10a | Thunder Frogs | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||||
5.10a | Thunder Frogs | Sun 3rd Sep 2023 | ||||||
Portland Broughton Bluff New Frontier Cliff | ||||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tin Star (X) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 26th Feb 2005 | ||||
crazy nasty and long approach, but the route was stellar, pun somewhat intended.
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5.8 | Split Decision (X) | Average | Sun 1st Apr 2001 | |||||
a long walk through stinging nettles!
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Portland Broughton Bluff North Face | ||||||||
5.9 | ★★★ gandolfs grip (Gandalf's Grip) | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Sep 2011 | ||||
5.9
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5.9 | ★★★ gandolfs grip - with Nicky | 30m, 4 | Sat 3rd Sep 2011 | |||||
5.9 | Traffic Court | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
gandolfs grip is next to traffic court
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Portland Broughton Bluff Spring Rock | ||||||||
5.8 | Toe Cleavage | Average | Fri 1st Jul 2005 | |||||
5.8 | Toe Cleavage | Thu 10th Jan 2002 | ||||||
One nice smear in the middle
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5.11a | ★ Free Bird | ★ Good | Thu 10th Jan 2002 | |||||
tr
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Portland Broughton Bluff Bat Wall | ||||||||
5.11a | ★★ Superstition III | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | |||||
1st pitch only (5.10+)
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5.11a | ★★ Superstition III | ★★ Very Good | Sun 25th Mar 2007 | |||||
Did first pitch (5.10+) only due to rain. Use yellow or red Alien (1-2cm) to protect crack right below piton and anchors.
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5.11a | ★★ Superstition III | ★★★ Classic | 2002 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Lost Boys | ★ Good | 2002 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Lost Boys - with Sofia | ★★ Very Good | Thu 31st May 2018 | |||||
Tricky to onsight
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5.13c | Fright Night | Average | Sun 30th Jun 2013 | |||||
Portland Broughton Bluff Red Wall | ||||||||
5.8 | That's the Way | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||||
5.8 | That's the Way | 2004 | ||||||
5.8 | That's the Way | Thu 1st May 2003 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sheer Energy | 2004 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sheer Energy | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||||
5.10a | ★ Sheer Energy - with Sofia | ★ Good | Thu 31st May 2018 | |||||
5.9 | Physical Direct | 2004 | ||||||
5.11b | ★★ Hard Body | ★★ Very Good | Sat 30th Nov 2013 | |||||
Through the crux, fell after. Next Time for sure!
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5.11b | ★★ Hard Body | Sat 30th Nov 2013 | ||||||
Took at the crux. It will go though.
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5.10a | Dry Bones | 2002 | ||||||
one hit wonder
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5.11c | ★★ Critical Mass | ★★ Very Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | |||||
Nice climb with a fun lunge and tough bulge.
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5.7 | Arch de Triumph | Thu 1st May 2003 | ||||||
5.9 | ★ No Friction | 14m | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | |||||
5.9 | ★ No Friction | 14m | Thu 1st May 2003 | |||||
5.9 | ★ No Friction | 14m | ★ Good | Sat 12th Feb 2005 | ||||
one hard move
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5.9 | ★ No Friction | 14m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.9 | ★ No Friction | 14m | 2003 | |||||
a beautiful roof
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5.10c | ★★ Red Eye | Thu 1st May 2003 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Eye | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Eye | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | |||||
5.10c | ★★ Red Eye - with Sofia | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd May 2018 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Sheer Stress | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st May 2001 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Sheer Stress | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sheer Stress | ★★ Very Good | 2003 | |||||
5.10a | ★★ Sheer Stress | Tue 1st Jul 2003 | ||||||
5.10a | ★★ Sheer Stress | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2006 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick | 9m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st May 2003 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick | 9m | Sat 25th Mar 2006 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick | 9m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st May 2003 | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick | 9m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick | 9m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Jun 2004 | ||||
great edging
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5.10d | ★★ Thai Stick - with Sofia | 9m | Thu 31st May 2018 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | ★ Good | Sat 25th Mar 2006 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | Wed 1st Aug 2001 | |||||
greasy, sustained
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5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | Don't Bother | Tue 6th Jan 2004 | ||||
to much travel, ugly
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5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Wrong route. I didn't climb route.
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5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th May 2013 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack | 9m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 15th May 2013 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Classic Crack - with Sofia | 9m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 2nd May 2018 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | 2003 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 6th Jan 2004 | ||||
uncommon crux problem
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5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | ★ Good | Sun 21st Mar 2004 | ||||
To easy after the crux.
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5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★ Anastasia | 8m | Thu 1st May 2003 | |||||
5.10d | Arcturus | 6m | 2003 | |||||
5.10d | Arcturus | 6m | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Portland Broughton Bluff North Face Wall | ||||||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jun 2008 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★★ Very Good | 2004 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 15th Jul 2005 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★ Good | 1999 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 19th Jun 2005 | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★ Good | Sun 3rd Jun 2007 | ||||
First pitch only. Very fun lead.
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5.9 | ★★ Gandalf's Grip | 30m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Portland Broughton Bluff Hanging Gardens Wall | ||||||||
5.9 | ★★ Spud | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Jun 2006 | |||||
5.4 | Prometheus Slab | 2002 | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | Average | 2003 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | Average | Mon 1st Aug 2005 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | ★★ Very Good | Sat 19th Feb 2005 | |||||
very easy... good beginner route
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5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | ★ Good | Tue 24th Jun 2008 | |||||
5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||||
warmup
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5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | ★ Good | Tue 24th Jun 2008 | |||||
Nice beginner trad lead.
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5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | 2003 | ||||||
5.6 | ★ Giant's Staircase | Average | Fri 16th May 2008 | |||||
Very easy. The name says it all.
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