Routes as sport in Central Gorge

Climb the arete

This route contains both some amazing climbing at the grade and some of the most unpleasant choss in the gorge. An amazing choss pile that won't be to everyone's enjoyment but for those that like navigating loose rock while doing some nice climbing, get on this and contribute to the cleanup of what will inevitably become a classic.

A thin crux and a bit contrived, links with Venom eventually.

An area classic, considered stout at the grade especially for the tall. An extension continues above the anchor, adding some nice face climbing above but doesn't change the grade significantly.

Gripping slopey slab climbing.

Start left of the Black Hole chimney, up the crimpy face. Smile your way up lovely jugs through the steep roof and then climb carefully through some pretty bad rock in the top half. Great movement, but a few of those blocks and flakes aren't gonna be there forever. Leaders and belayers should wear helmets.

Start up awkward chimney to gain bolted crack. Climb up this to the right of the Focus anchor. Take a breather, extend the anchor (a lot) then quest out the steep headwall. Classic of the area.

Black Hole into Flux Capacitors redpoint crux. Climb the first 11 bolts of Black Hole then bust out right towards FC via an independent bolt. Either keep trending right to clip another FC bolt (and cop loads of drag) or boulder out above the independent link-up bolt. An awesome excursion linking all the best climbing on the wall.

A deadset forearm melter. Either climb the arete (10b) or Flux Direct (12b) to get to the FC headwall which can be identified by a lone fixed chain draw at the beginning of the steepness.

Alternate start to FC if you feel like really squeezing the juice out of your arms.

Super long enjoyable route up the left arete on the south face of the Solarium. Rap twice to get off.

Fun and varied climbing straight up the middle of the south face of the solarium to an independent anchor down and left of the Sendero anchor on the top right edge of the pink slab.

Awesome runout and engaging climbing up an easy juggy face to an arete up high, ultimately culminating in a worryingly slippery slab crux guarding the anchor.

Takes the direct line under the Sendero anchor.

Climb featured face diagonally up and left towards crack, then follow crack back rightwards to anchors.

Currently (fall 2013) loose, but should be a great climb once it cleans up.

Climb super polished, glassy slopers, clipping homemade hangers for @90ft.

New route on the left side of the steep headwall. Start up Aurora's permadraws and bust out left about 2/3rds of the way up. More technical, great holds and great climbing.

Aurora is the awesome overhanging line on the far left side of the Great Wall of China. The route starts off with vertical climbing until you get to a small ledge that provides an awkward but decent rest. From the rest blast up the overhanging headwall with good holds. The last few moves are pumpy and a little dynamic.

Take Corona to the top by bouldering through the final dihedral.

Left-hand of the pair of short sport routes that go to a ledge part-way up the wall.

Climb Fortune Cookie then continue up the face.

Right-hand of a pair of short climbs to a ledge part-way up the cliff.

A fun continuation of China Doll. Crux is weaving through the overhangs that leads to a fun moderate headwall to the anchor.

Mussy hook anchor.

Easy but quality extension of Tsing Tao 10b. Extension is the same grade, just more of it.

Enjoyable steep juggy climbing through bif huecos, trending left over the roof and onto a nice headwall. Rock is a bit suspect, but climbs better than it looks.

Start immediately right of Mandarin Orange. A bit squeezed in, but adds a great and sustained upper headwall.

Climb Peking Duck to the anchors, traverse right and continue up to the top anchors of Yellow Peril.