Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.6 | ★★ Eureka — 2 attempts | 26m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 27th Sep 2022 | ||||
Spectacular moves, epic climb! Pure enjoyment going up. Did it twice just for the fun!
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | |||||
Fell off with my face next to the anchors, twice! Devoted, but early days in the trip.
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5.10d | ★★ Jailbird | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | |||||
I forgot how to hold small holds on a slab, felt nails in the sun.
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5.10d | ★★ Dragonslayer | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Mono pockets on a 10D
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Stuffed the crux sequence on my first shot. Sent second.
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5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 9th Nov 2016 | ||||
Dream route, a fantastic voyage covering all types of styles. Super pumpy, second shot
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
Nice climb, requires a little route-finding
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5.12a | ★★★ Stay the Hand | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 9th Mar 2004 | ||||
Bouldery
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 9th Mar 2004 | ||||
Some, including me, think that this is actually a 12a.
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5.11d | ★★★ The Return of Chris Snyder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 1st Mar 2008 | ||||
ouch!! it hurt!!
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5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 14th Oct 2005 | ||||
sweet route
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5.11d | ★★ Sex Show | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Apr 2006 | ||||
sweet, two distinct cruxes.
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5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 16th Oct 2005 | ||||
nice route. good rests.
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5.6 | ★★ Eureka | 26m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 2nd Oct 2005 | ||||
cool features up high
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Jul 2002 | ||||
first trad lead
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5.8 | ★ Valor Over Discretion | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 14th Oct 2005 | ||||
reminds me of a trad climb
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 14th Oct 2005 | ||||
two goes. next time for sure.
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5.9 | ★ Put Me in the Zoo | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 9th Sep 2001 | ||||
good for a warm up
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5.10a | ★★ Chimp | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 14th Oct 2015 | ||||
Great slab climb w lots of good crimpers along the way. Enjoyable moves.
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5.12a | ★★★ Hippocrite - with Eric Godfrey | 14m, 4 | Red River Gorge | Fri 7th Oct 2016 | |||||
Just couldn't stick the dyno... maybe having a small wing span to compress into the move is not very helpful...
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5.11b | ★★ Geezers Go Sport - with Eric Godfrey | 25m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Fri 7th Oct 2016 | |||||
Funzos
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5.10c | ★★ One Brick Shy - with Eric Godfrey | 8 | Red River Gorge | Fri 7th Oct 2016 | |||||
Yep, starting on 10s after a 25 hours of driving...
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5.7 | ★★ Father and Son | 12m | Red River Gorge | Fri 3rd Sep 2004 | |||||
Good fun climb
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5.7 | ★★ casual viewing | 21m | Red River Gorge | Fri 3rd Sep 2004 | |||||
A block fell off the rock which caused me to fall. If not for this, I would have climbed it clean.
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5.10a | ★★ Kentucky Pinstripe | 24m | Red River Gorge | Fri 3rd Sep 2004 | |||||
We saw this bolted route and decided to climb it without knowing the rating. Doug said it was "7 or 8ish" so I gave it a go. This turned out to be pretty hard.
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5.11b | ★★ Monkey in the Middle - with Matt Schimke, o_g | 25m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | ||||
Great climbing
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5.10a | ★★ Chimp - with Matt Schimke, o_g | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 21st Oct 2015 | ||||
Slab trickery
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction - with Jessie Rushbrooke | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
Super fun outing,hey Jess
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5.11a | ★★ Synchronicity - with Gareth Llewellin | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
I wanna be Gareth when I grow up
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5.9 | ★ Kampsight | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 8th May 1999 | ||||
First attempt in the Red
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5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 8th May 1999 | ||||
First successful climb I can remember
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5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | ||||
Way better than Ledger line, the route right next to it. Really cool start if you go direct. Kinda wigged out when alex started talking to the rest of the group about the runout, and my concious mental blocks then became more noticeable. I noticed that I often caught the top of my toe on the rock, which makes me think that I'm dragging my feet and holding back from committing completely to the moves. I've been kinda bothered by some bad news about the new job, so this kinda threw my mental game off.
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5.9 | ★★ Andromeda Strain | 27m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Way burly trad route, really need to work on the liebacking skills. I took a fall off of the route about 5 feet from the top from sheer exhaustion.
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 10th May 2005 | ||||
Amazing view from the anchors.
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5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | ||||
Good red river gorge overhanging pump fest. I wouldn't say this was 10c though, book lists it I think more correctly as 10a. Anywho, I went into this climb not looking to onsight, but it just went so smoothly and with good technique that I was able to take advantage of good form and breathing control.
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5.10b | ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2006 | ||||
Dirty as shit up top, had some trouble figuring out the crux.
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
First time on it got a little wigged out, had trouble deciding how much gear to place and where. Took a rest on a piece and then moved up a move or two and found a sweet ass ledge that I should have just pulled through to.
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5.8 | ★★ Five Finger Discount | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Took just the gear I knew I would need, and now that I knew about that sweet ledge and the bomber placements, I flew right through this sweet finger crack. Favorite climb of the trip.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Jun 2006 | ||||
Awesome route, but long and commiting as shit for me. Placed almost my entire rack but for nuts and tricams, still was run out though. Really freaked me out like 50-75 feet of C crack traverse. Anchors for the first belay are way the hell up there. Lots of pretty good hexes in camming mode. Not 100% confident in them though, but I wouldn't have been able to climb and protect it otherwise. Was so intent on keeping the #3 camalot on my rack for up top that I never placed it, which was pretty stupid on my part as it would have given me huge piece of mind. Also, instead of rapping off of the tree, I would prefer to rap off the first anchor, would be much safer.
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5.12d | ★★★ Darkness Falls | 20m | Red River Gorge | Sat 6th Apr 2019 | |||||
5.12a | ★★ Way Up Yonder | 29m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
11a first pitch
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5.11c | ★★★ No Place Like Home | 30m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
A bad ass climb, wicked fun!
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5.10d | ★★ Just Duet | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 14th Oct 2006 | |||||
first climb after 8 hrs. of driving
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5.10b | FA ★★ You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 14th May 2006 | ||||
Great climb but some loose rocks still... not many people climb it...
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5.9 | ★ Trouble Clef | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 23rd Mar 2008 | ||||
End of the day, just pumped out. Will definitely send next time i get there
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue - with Gareth Llewellin, Bernie Walsh | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
Is very good line, but not on a moist Kentucky day. bottom holds wet. Big holds, nice moves and a crux before the anchor.
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue - with Gareth Llewellin, Bernie Walsh | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
Is very good line, but not on a moist Kentucky day. bottom holds wet. Big holds, nice moves and a crux before the anchor.
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5.11c | ★★ Lynx Jinx - with Gareth Llewellin, Bernie Walsh | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
Very Exciting route as the first draw came completely off when i passed it. Luckily i could put it back on and didn't fall a long way to the deck! Still got the onsight! memorable...
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5.11b | ★★ Geezers Go Sport - with Gareth Llewellin, Bernie Walsh | 25m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
good fun. long and pumpy..
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5.11c | ★★★ Hippopotomoose - with Gareth Llewellin, Bernie Walsh | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 1st Nov 2015 | ||||
was a good line. tough and moist on the day and i ran out of juice...
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5.10a | ★ Rest Assured | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Nice warm up. good moves. bit damp at the bottom.
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5.12a | ★★ Us and Them - with Gareth Llewellin | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Great quality route. Good moves to a slopey and reachy crux. various sequences will work.
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5.12a | ★★ Us and Them - with Gareth Llewellin | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
With the beta sorted it went clean second time. Great fun line
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5.10d | ★★ Pocket Pussy - with Gareth Llewellin | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Fun climbing. Last route of a great day.
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5.11d | ★★ Sex Show - with Gareth Llewellin | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Steep and sustained right to the top. Same wall, more great moves!
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5.11d | ★★ Seek the Truth - with Gareth Llewellin | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 5th Nov 2015 | ||||
Even more steepness! Not as well cleaned or traffic'd but still a great line with big moves a reasonable rest.
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5.12a | ★★ Morning Wood - with Rob Saunders | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th May 2017 | |||||
Hard and steep down low to work out the powerful pockety boulder sequence.
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5.12a | ★★ Morning Wood - with dru mack | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th May 2017 | |||||
Got it right second go. Through the second crux and motored on up to the anchors! Great line and a bit more grunt for the grade.
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5.11b | ★★ On Beyond Zebra! - with Dru Mack | 24m, 9 | Red River Gorge | Mon 15th May 2017 | |||||
Long warm up for the day. Waiting for Dru to smash out Zookeeper.
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5.11a | ★ Skin the Cat - with Dru Mack | 25m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 15th May 2017 | ||||
careful start over the void. Fun Climbing and a tricky ending.
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | 1996 | ||||
so, so close but never managed a clean lead
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5.6 | ★★ Eureka | 26m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 30th May 2012 | ||||
A fun first lead for a new sport leader.
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5.7 | ★★ Father and Son | 12m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2013 | ||||
My first trad fall on a #3!
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5.7 | ★★ Casual Viewing | 21m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Oct 2013 | ||||
Excellent line with great gear. Lots of stemming and layback moves.
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5.7 | ★★ Father and Son | 12m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2016 | ||||
An excellent route with great protection.
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5.7 | ★★ Vision | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Sep 2016 | ||||
Excellent climb. Starts with fingers and then leads to a nice hand crack. Fun!
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 8th Sep 2016 | ||||
Got on this thinking it was a 5.11. Was very wrong. A bouldery start off slimey green rock leads to very steep climbing until the crux.....at the anchors.
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | ||||
It really is an amazing line. Splitter hand crack for 2 pitches. Low angle for the first pitch. Second pitch is more vertical. The crux is a slight offwidth section guarding the end of the 2nd pitch; layback and squeeze your body in the crack! Standard rack; I used a #5 in the offwidth section to make things feel better.
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5.9 | ★ Jump For Joy | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | ||||
A contrived dyno crux start with high potential for ground fall leads to an otherwise pleasant face climb. Stick clip the second bolt.
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5.10a | ★ Fadda | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 10th Sep 2016 | ||||
A beautiful, technical face climb. Fun!
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5.11b | ★★ Geezers Go Sport | 25m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 23rd Mar 2024 | ||||
Jesus the finish was desperate for me
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5.11c ~5.12b | Disappear | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | Tue 9th Apr 2024 | |||||
Direct line has a crux that feels harder than any of the 12as I have tried here. But there is a traverse away from the bolt that is maybe 11c? Rest of the climb is easy and so much fun
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5.12a | ★★★ Hippocrite | 14m, 4 | Red River Gorge | Fri 19th Apr 2024 | |||||
Made it to the last bolt and gave up 😭
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5.11b | ★★ Monkey in the Middle | 25m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 22nd Apr 2022 | ||||
Rest day climb
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5.12a | ★★★ Hippocrite | 14m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 24th Apr 2022 | ||||
2 falls
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5.10b | ★★ A.W.O.L. - with gl | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
So busy, all day. Good climb, continually climbed from 10 till 430.
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5.10d | ★★ Dragonslayer - with jess | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
Great climbing. Amazing double mono move down low, need to stick clip the first bolt for that to not be scary. Gets a bit close to the route to the left.
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5.10c | ★★ Crazyfingers - with sg | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
This wall was busy on a raining Saturday. Jumped on this to warm up. Had to pull pretty hard on two finger pockets down low. Got pretty pumped trying to avoid the move, but pushed through.
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5.10d | ★★ Pulling Pockets - with ms | 15m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | ||||
The four 510 routes on this Wall are all very similar, but the size of the pockets varies. This one has four finger pockets. Good stuff.
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5.12a | ★★★ Stay the Hand - with ms, gl | 15m | Red River Gorge | Sat 24th Oct 2015 | |||||
Had a quick go at the bouldery start after belaying Matt while he worked it. Needless to say it didn't go well for me. Matt blitzed it later in the day in style.
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5.9 | ★ Tourist Trap | 24m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
The bottom section was wet and unpleasant. The top arete was great.
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5.11b | ★★ Reciever | 20m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
These 5.11s were great.
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5.11c | ★★★ Centerfire | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Tried to move to quickly through the middle section and fell off. Great route.
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5.11a | ★★★ Bandolier | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Stellar lower wall, and a pump overhanging flake finish. Though I was going to pump off while clipping, but held it together.
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5.9 | ★★ Wadcutter | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Nov 2015 | ||||
Amazing shotgun pockets. Not often you can use twin split 5 finger pockets to pull a move (I.e ten mono pockets....).
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5.11c | ★ Misfire | 17m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
Last route of the day. Climbs better than it looks. Powerful boulder problem crux slapping the blocky arete. Pumpy up high.
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5.11b 5.11d | ★★ Recoil | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
Graded 11d, but felt a grade or two easier to me. Really good moves.
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5.11b | ★ Del Boy | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
Some grotty rock down low, but a fun journey winding up the wall.
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5.10d | ★★ Pocket Pussy | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
Steep warm up.
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5.11d | ★★ Sex Show | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 9th Nov 2015 | ||||
Wow, this was super sustained. Had to hang around to try to recover at mid height. I was thankful the draws were on, especially on the Anchors.
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5.10d | ★★ Pocket Pussy | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2005 | ||||
pumpy
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5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
Fell at the last move on my onsight attempt... Sent it on the next go.
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5.10a | ★★ Chimp | 18m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
Very nice technical moves up a not so easy slab.
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5.9 | The Gunner | Red River Gorge | Don't Bother | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | |||||
Meh.
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5.11a | ★★ Snake Charmer | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 18th Oct 2019 | ||||
Long. Beautiful.
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5.11d | ★★★ Ro Shampo | 18m | Red River Gorge | Tue 5th Nov 2019 | |||||
Listed as 12a in the guide book and MP. I thihnk this would be acurate if you're shorter or less power oriented. Since that is the main style of the red, I think 11d is fitting.
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5.7 | ★★ Vision | 24m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 24th Oct 2005 | ||||
Great Jams
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5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction | 43m | Red River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 13th Sep 2002 | ||||
That crack gets WIDE at the top!!
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5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 19th Sep 2004 | ||||
easy
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5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat | 20m | Red River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Feb 2005 | ||||
my very first lead
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