Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 21st Mar 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Flutterboy Blue | 12m, 5 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.9 | ★ Stay Off the Radio Jeff! | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | Sweet Jane | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
5.7 | Trundling Kentucky | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Fri 6th Mar 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Sunbeam Buttress | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Moonshine | 18m, 5 | |||||
5.9 | ★ Backstabber | 12m, 4 | |||||
Tue 25th Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Ohio Climbing | 17m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 22nd Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Coyote Cliff | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Thunderclinger | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 17th Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Johnny's Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ 59" Drillbitch | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 17th Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Tectonic Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Gettin' Lucky In Kentucky | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Plate Tectonics | 20m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Hideout | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Boltergeist | 30m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 2nd Feb 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Great Wall | |||||||
5.7 | ★ Glory and Consequences | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Legends of Limonite | 15m, 6 | Average | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Bitter Ray of Sunshine | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.6 | ★ La Escalada | 21m | Don't Bother | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Guide Wall | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Built for Life | 14m | Average | ||||
5.8 | ★ Mona Lisa Crack | 14m | Average | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Land Before Time Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Basilisk | 6m, 2 | Crap | ||||
5.8 | Coprolite | 9m, 3 | Crap | ||||
5.10a | ★ Watering Hole | 18m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Prehistoric Extermination | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Ryanosaurus | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10c | ★ Sabertooth | 17m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | |||||||
5.10d | ★★ Return of the Manimal | 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Ohio Climbing | 17m, 5 | Average | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Send Me On My Way | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | ★ The Offering | 14m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.8 | A-Beano | 9m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.11a | ★ Methane Rising | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.7 | CH4 | 9m, 3 | Crap | ||||
5.7 | Trundling Kentucky | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
5.8 | Sweet Jane | 15m, 1 | Average | ||||
5.7 | ★ The Bee's Business | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★ Stay Off the Radio Jeff! | 15m, 6 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.9 | ★ Flutterboy Blue | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | Redeye Brew | 14m, 4 | Don't Bother | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Practice Wall | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Beta Spewer | 6m | Average | ||||
5.11b | ★★ Smear Tactics | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.1 | Kate's 1st Trad Lead | 6m | Don't Bother | ||||
5.7 | Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni | 6m, 2 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.5 | Yu Stin Ki Pu | 6m | Don't Bother | ||||
5.4 | Acrophobiacs Anonymous | 8m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.7 | Slabalito | 6m, 2 | Average | ||||
5.8 | Shawty | 6m, 2 | Average | ||||
5.6 | ★★ Dragon's Mouth | 17m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Johnny's Wall | |||||||
5.9 | Two Chicken Butts | Don't Bother | |||||
5.8 | Thanks Holly | 14m | Average | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Spinner | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ Bethel | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10a | ★★ 59" Drillbitch | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Animal Crackers | |||||||
5.10b | ★ Sam | 14m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Rikki Tikki Tavi | 15m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.7 | Harvey | 24m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
5.8 | ★ Casey | 23m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 28th Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Boneyard | |||||||
5.8 | Abby Gabby Doo | 9m, 5 | Don't Bother | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Stealing Melinda | 8m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.10b | Surfin' the Whale's Back | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | Hijacked Project | 15m, 6 | Average | ||||
5.9 | ★ One-Armed Bandit | 24m, 12 | ★ Good | ||||
5.10b | ★★ Lucy Goosey | 24m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Cindarella | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 23rd Jan 2020 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Hideout | |||||||
5.10c | ★ Preemptive Strike | 27m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 26th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Bruise Brothers Wall | |||||||
5.10a | ★★ Rat Stew | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Send Me On My Way | 23m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 26th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Land Before Time Wall | |||||||
5.8 | Coprolite | 9m, 3 | Don't Bother | ||||
Sun 22nd Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Solarium | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends | 28m | |||||
Sun 22nd Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Indy Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis | 12m, 4 | |||||
5.10b | ★ Mentor Powers | 12m, 4 | |||||
Fri 20th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Solarium | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends | 28m | |||||
Fri 20th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Will Vidler | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First redpoint burn today after a bolt-to-bolt to warmup and equip. Felt strong and climbed well (its amazing what temperatures about 0 do for one's climbing ability), and sending this was a great end-cap to the trip, finishing in mega-classic fashion. Getting the team-send with Will Vidler was just the perfect conclusion.
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5.12b | Blue Collar - with Will Vidler | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
Ugh. The rock is generally quite average, but the bouldery start and the climbing around the crux is enjoyable. The crux itself is 5 moves of heinousness. After breaking off one of the crux micro-crimps, and spending a bunch of time to put together another sequence, I decided that I couldnt be bothered.
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5.11d | ★★ Immaculate Deception - with Will Vidler | 27m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Loved the dihedral boulder problem start. The rest of the route across the face and up the arete is fun but only about 10c.
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Perfect finish to the trip with a team send
of this route! Just absolute class and absolute fun, it doesn’t get much better! Stoked beyond belief. I warmed up on it then bungled a move on my first red point go today, but it went fairly easily after that and I felt gloriously solid on the tricky crux up high. I probably owe this ascent to the weather gods for finally bringing some manageable temperatures! Third shot today plus one exploratory lap the other week and three hopeless goes on the freezing day of death. Now on to Vegas and J-Tree!!
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Wed 18th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Will Vidler | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
3 more Red point burns when the warmest it got all day was -1 (and as low as -7). 2nd lap I had my frozen hands on the victory jugs but no capacity to hold on (had been totally numb for the entire upper crux). Proper heartbreaker and ensuing temper tantrum.
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5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Three goes in the worstest most arctic-est weather ever. The forecasted max temp for the day was -1 and that wasn’t until 3pm. Radical radical route but no real hopes of a send in such horrendous temperatures. I did get the beta down pat though.
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Sun 8th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Will Vidler | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super rad and surprisingly sustained. On my flash attempt I fell off at the first bolt, then went from below that move to the top and fell off at the last move... probably a good think I didnt link to the end . My favourite of the routes here, as the jumpy roof start is awesome, and the final duelling pockets is spectacular.
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5.12d | ★★★ Triple Sec - with Will Vidler | 29m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very broken up, but 3 x super rad cruxes in different styles. The bouldery pocketed start is the highlight, but the face sections are interesting mono slabbing. Really cool. Prolly 12c.
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Sun 8th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Indy Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis - with Will Vidler | 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mostly cruisy (but weird) crimping with a single hard pull on a small hold. Okay, I guess.
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5.10d | ★★ Makin' Bacon - with Will Vidler | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprisingly thin and sustained at the grade. Make sure you warmup your fingers first.
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Sun 8th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Jesus Wept - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Less interesting moves but more sustained and probably better than Triple Sec. This wall is STACKED! We’ll be back for sure.
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5.12d | ★★★ Triple Sec - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 29m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Brilliant face climb in my style but probably more like low end 12c regardless. I had one go to equip it, then had a false start on the bottom boulder, came down and rested for 10 minutes then sent it packing. Stoked!
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Sun 8th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Indy Wall | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Mid-Life Crisis - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
One hard pull.
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5.10d | ★★ Makin' Bacon - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Dan, Bryan | 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good and crimpy. Finally I didn’t fall off something!
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Wed 4th Dec 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Solarium | |||||||
5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends - with Will Vidler | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
So impossibly steep, with less jugs than you might expect, but still not too hard at the grade. Tonnes of fun.
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5.12b | ★★★ Abiyoyo - with Will Vidler | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mega climbing on a waterpolished steep face, but very cruxy. I came up with a moderately ludicrous drive-by cutloose for the send.
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5.11c | ★★★ Banshee - with Will Vidler | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Beautiful rock and varied moves, with some tough climbing at the grade in the middle. The giant hueco's are funky!
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5.11a | ★★ Air-Ride Equipped - with Will Vidler | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Pretty cool wandery steepness at the grade... but very stop-start.
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5.12b | ★★★ Super Best Friends - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ann Marie, Fernando Hernandez | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My total anti-style so it was cool to manage to
top this one at the end of the day. First onsight at the grade but I think it’s probably a bit squishy. Stupidly outrageous jugs through the roof forever, so so much fun. I love rock climbing.
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5.12b | ★★★ Abiyoyo - with Paul Frothy Thomson, Ann Marie, Fernando Hernandez | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very psyched to manage this. Awesome but cruxy climbing on beautiful, baked, golden sandstone. Just had to hold on for the ride.
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5.11a | ★★ Air-Ride Equipped - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Unlikely for the grade. Not super special but still very fun.
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5.11c | ★★★ Banshee - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Borderline classic. The climbing above the hueco is superb but I found it a little bit tricky and ugly trying to get there. Still a brilliant route on beautiful rock though!
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Sat 23rd Nov 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley Land Before Time Wall | |||||||
5.7 | Basilisk | 6m, 2 | Crap | ||||
5.8 | ★★ Prehistoric Extermination | 15m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Ryanosaurus | 17m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tue 19th Nov 2019 - Red River Gorge | |||||||
Muir Valley The Sanctuary | |||||||
5.13a | Name Dropper - with Jon Shen | 21m, 7 | |||||
5.12d | ★★★ Peace Frog - with Jon Shen | 24m, 8 | |||||
5.13a | ★★★ Prometheus Unbound - with Jon Shen | 29m, 10 |