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Nodes in White Rock Spring Peak

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White Rock Spring Peak

The large mass of light-colour/whitish rock that is seperate from both the Calico Hills and from the main Red Rocks formation, with Willow Springs creek being between it and the main formation.

Sheep Skull Crags
Sheep Skull Crags
5.9 It's a Love Thing
Dust to Dust
5.8 Intestinal Flu
5.9 Black Glass
5.8 Pneumonia
5.10b Pencil Lead
Ledger Crags
Ledger Crags
Ulysses
5.7 The Ledger

Park at White Rock Trail Head (there's a small dirt lot right next to Scenic Route Drive) if you want to cross country or at the main trailhead lot if you wish to take the trail to the gully.

Approach:

You can cross country the flats (with lots of small gullies) or use the gully which White Rock Loop crosses and goes up the mountain right next to The Ledger.

Descent:

There are 3 possible routes out:

  • Rappel down the route. This is the easiest and safest, you can do a single rappel from pitch 2 with a 70 meter rope.
  • Scramble to the right about 75 meters, then down a gully to a tree and use it to rap to the ground. Two 60 meter ropes.
  • Go left and scramble down the gully. This involves 3 rappels on suspect webbing and quite a bit of route finding.

Pitches:

  1. 25m: 5.5 Corner climb to a ledge with bolts. Crack gloves are useful but not required.

  2. 30m: 5.7 Scramble up the staircase and around the corner, then up the dihedral to a large ledge. Anchor to the webbing and cord around a bolder.

  3. 20m: 5.7 (possibly 5.8) around the corner to the right and up a slab to the final bolts. This is quite exposed and is sure to get the heart pumping.

Protection: Up to Camalot #3

5.10b Holed Up
Angel Food Wall

The white pyramid-shaped east/north-east facing wall on the lower-right flank of White Rocks Springs Peak. It has a number of long moderate multi-pitch climbs.

Angel Food Wall
5.10d Psychomania
5.6 Sandy Hole
5.9 Eigerwand
5.7 III Tunnel Vision
5.7 Group Therapy
5.8 Group Therapy Variation

Variant final pitch.

5.8 Stilgar's Wild Ride
5.10a Rude Rocks
5.10+ Goobies for Gumbies
5.8 Healy's Haunted House
5.8 Purblind Pillar
5.9 Echolalia
5.6 Lean Lady
The Enclaves

A collection of gritstone style routes.

The Enclaves
5.10d The Bollocks
5.11c Scian Dubh
5.12c Saracen

mostly sport with a couple optional pieces.

5.9 Rosie's Day Out
White Rock Springs Bouldering
White Rock Springs Bouldering
Stooge Boulders

Accessed from parking at lost creek and hiking back towards the Owl. A couple quality lines but fragile rock.

White Rock Springs Bouldering Stooge Boulders
V4 Bloop

likely broken start hard. much harder than V4 now...

V0 Slab Left

Left crack of boulder up the hill from Bloop.

V2 Sloop Woof

Slab to overhang. Landing is not great. Scary top out.

V0 - 1 Slab East

facing Sloop Woof.

V3 Just Say No
V3 The Sugar Baby
V3 Sugar Right
V2 Sugar Arête Left
V4 Sugar West Arête - sit
V3 Sugar West Arête - stand
V6/7 AC
V4/5 DC
White Rock Springs Bouldering
Seinfeld
White Rock Springs Bouldering Seinfeld
V6 Jerry

One move wonder. Crimp plate right side of steep overhang. Go to jug, then top out.

V6 George

Right of Jerry. Sit start chocolate crimps, go more or less straight up.

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