Ascents in The Dihedrals

Almost got it, ahhh well. Not sure if this is classic because it's good or classic because it was the first bolted face in Smith.

Regardless, it's got probably one of the coolest holds I've ever used on it. That weird spock/X grip in the crux is wild.

Feels over rated

Took a lot of work there was nothing powerful just thin insecure climbing top to bottom

When I first tried this I thought maybe first or second go….then proceeded to not free any of the moves, not free any on top rope…my ego didn’t want to long term project a 24…but here I am. Today made some actual links. Linking everything seems daunting. Thin, thinner then anything I’ve tried pure face, no jugs to retreat and shake, insecure, minuscule feet, ten foot moves to one hand move from one painfully sharp crimp to another…

Pretty average rock in the bottom and top thirds, but the mid-section crux is awesome.

Probably on the softer side as well, considering it's right next to Latin Lover (which gets 12a) which I can barely pull onto. Grades are dumb.

Will I ever not dog this? If this is 12a then everything back home is soft

Awesome, puzzling, vertical-dyslexia inducing.

traversed a bit too far on slab then got direct beta. Engaging!

Hard but doable.... not many bolts on it 😅

Thought this was a fairly rough warmup.

First 12a flash at Smith ytb, super nice. Maybe not classic Smith style, hit the concensus crux and suddenly felt at home on the small but positive crimps. Classic.

Tried the extension and took a squeeeaaaaaler.

Thin, fun and funky. Awesome.

Pumped out one move before the rest. Had a GREAT fall. Biggest I've had in a while haha

Thought this was pretty rough but won't say it's a sandbag cause it's the first route I've climbed here

baffled by move at 2nd bolt, slapping/falling into the arete. doesn't make sense yet, will require work. bump right hand higher into better arete pinch? HARD. keep right hand lower and bump left hand onto shitty crimp/sloper? must find better body/hip position

sequency. probably stay right of the crack.

would be 3 or 4 stars if longer and no scrambly start.

no rest till obvious ledge. very techy, must climb smart

So knobby!

Pretty stiff for the grade, keeps you thinking!

Super nice route. I had to pull over the crux move using the QuickDraw right after the big hole above the crag. But possibly I would go a bit right for doing the crux. Very powerful nice moves. A blue cam can be placed in the hole before the crux. Possibly makes it less scary. Left to it there is a 12a (when you traverse left before the crux). I want to try that one when I am back in Smith rock.

I arrived at the crux already feeling not so fresh anymore after it took me a lot of time to place gear in the irregular crack below. As it turned out, the crux is also hard and technical, so it's very unlikely I could have onsighted it. Skipped the crux using the quickdraw in order to be faster as we only had half a day of climbing, but it would definitely be worth going back to this one.

Since I wasn't sure I was going to send Churning in the Wake, I decided to go back to this one where I was relatively confident that I could do it within a few tries. Had to rest once while putting in the quickdraws, sent it next try. This is really an amazing and very long quality line.

Great route! Figuring out the beta is super fun. Technical moves on small handholds.

I thought my skin had recovered but crimping in this route hurt so much that I came back down after the fourth quickdraw.

Actually very nice hand crack. The last part involves some down climbing to the anchor. Which feels a bit weird when following. I felt super cold so I said take 2 times. But actually there is good rests and it's a very nice crack route.

Super nice extension of Heinous Cling. But very hard. The crux moves are going left with very high feet on very bad holds. Could not do all the moves in the crux on first try. Runout at the top where you need to traverse left to the anchor of the route next left to it and then go right again. Above the first crux there is a dynamic move to a jug which I could do when placing the feet while sitting in the rope .

Two more tries today. In first try I had to get the beta in again. I did not remember much from yesterday. Then I sent it . Super proud because it involves some big bolt distances and a dynamic move to a good ledge. Before that is very nice climbing on good and not so good pockets (finger holes) and crimps.

Climbed it again while putting in the quickdraws and twice more as the first part of the full route.

Hard for the grade, but easier than Chain Reaction, at least for me. Definitely doable, but I didn't have enough body tension in the crux after all the climbing below. Only did it with two rests, one after falling in the crux move, and then one at the committing dynamic move above where I wasn't motivated enough after I had already fallen.

Nice crack but the anchor placement is awkward.

First try was on toprope for working the moves. Will try in lead tomorrow.

Nice route, first bolt is rather high and the climbing to the first bolt is hard for 5.10b. @mf clipped it for me . Afterwards technical moves on bad holds