Routes as sport in Smith Rock Group

1. (5.7) 9 bolts. Climb 'King Nothing'[301845909] to the bolted belay.

2. (5.10b) 10 bolts. Continue up edges on the face to a 2 bolt anchor.

Rappel the route to descend.

First pitch

Up and right around bulges, to a step hard right under the small roof to anchors above. Has a 5.10 bolted extension which makes for a nice, long 35m pitch. Tie a knot in the end of your 70m rope to lower

Great climbing on good quality rock. Sustained 5.10 climbing with a cryptic crux.

1. (5.6) 10 bolts.

2. (5.10c) 6 bolts.

3. (5.10b) 10 bolts.

4. (5.9) 10 bolts. Frightening rock quality.

Descend by hiking down the 3rd class gully to the last 3 rappels of 'Wherever I May Roam'[19225615].

The start is good but the rock then turns to rubbish. It's nice and steep and long but most of the climb might eventually fall down bit by bit.

Best route on the wall but that's not saying much

Short highly bolted original route on the wall

Shares the first two bolts of Wannabe Llamas

Optional 3" cam protects moves below the first bolt.

This variant of 'When Llamas Bolt'[19224721] climbs the right side of the arête (8 bolts) before traversing right to join 'Scary Llamas'[19224613] (2 bolts).

Aptly named. Generously bolted route, tough stemming in the afternoon shaded corner. Overhang and smooth wall with a lack of positive handholds in the crux makes this a tough route on lead.

Approach via the first 2 pitches of 'Wherever I May Roam'[19225615]. Ascend the crack and arête past 8 bolts to the bolted anchors. Rappel with 2 ropes to descend.

All belay anchors are bolted.

1. (5.8) 7 bolts. Climb P1 of 'Adventurous 9904'[301696386].

2. (5.9) 9 bolts. Clip a bolt and step across the top of a leaning chimney. Follow the bolts traversing up and left.

3. (5.9) 9 bolts. Continue traversing left around an exposed face, ignoring the bolts leading up for 'The Unforgiven'[16799941] and 'Tears of Rage'[19225339]. Top anchor is also the top of rappel #3.

4. (5.9) 10 bolts. Follow bolts up and right past a tricky arête to easy slab.

5. (5.9) 5 bolts. Easy slab leads straight up to jugs on a headwall and anchors up on top.

Descend with 60m rope in 4 rappels.

1. Rappel off the back (east) side above a 3rd class gully and walk over to chains above the west face.

2. Rappel to anchors at the top of pitch 3.

3. Rappel most of the length of the rope and look for anchors to the right.

4. Rappel to the ground.

Consult a topo (e.g., Watts guide) and know the descent before you start. Climbers have been injured and rescued after rappelling this route from the wrong anchors.