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An eight bolt extension to the original. There is yet another anchor about 2/3 of the way up but ignore this as it's no harder (and even better) to go to the top.

Boulder crux right off the ground then big holds. There are two sets of anchors for this climb. If you stop at the first, it is 5.9, if you go to the second it's 5.10c.

Not any harder and you need two ropes (or two raps) or a longer than 70m rope.

Busy!

New anchor added to allow for lowering with a 70m rope (and lowering the grade by a letter)

Hard move just below the top

A nails (v5-6) crimp boulder under the first bolt guards an enjoyable 5.11ish pumper. Worth doing when it's cold.

(12c in the 3rd Edition Smith Rock Guide)

FA: Martin Grullich, 1988

Extension the Energy Crisis

While this is certainly a one-sequence wonder route, it's a lot of fun. The crux section is just before the anchors and involves technical long reach moves. Just right of Nine Gallon Buckets and left of Taco Chips. Starts in a pocketed seam. 8 bolts & loweroffs on anchor

Extension continues up the face on decent crimps with good clipping stances. None of the move are harder than the lower crux, its just more enduring. The extension make cool ranch flavor a worthwhile route. Permadraws and lower off anchors.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): East Wind Design

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780999723357

Color 3rd Edition:
Providing an in-depth look at many premier rock climbing sites within a relatively convenient drive from Portland, the color 3rd edition of Northwest Oregon Rock helps you ascend to the next degree.
  • Informative beta details 800+ routes at over 75 different rock climbing sites across Northwest Oregon and Southwest Washington, including both sides of the Cascades
  • Climbing sites include Chimney Rocks, Horsethief Butte, Enola, Pete's Pile, Bulo Point, Area51 and the summit of Needle Rock, among other crags and alpine pinnacles
  • This definitive reference guidebook will help you focus on your next climbing goal with rich details, effective route beta, detailed ink topos and photographic maps

Author(s): East Wind Design

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780999723326

Featuring the best bouldering sites in the Columbia River Gorge, Gorge Bouldering Select captures the essence of its core areas with valuable details and photographs as your guide to scale the rocks.

Bouldering sites featured include Larch Mountain Boulders, Alpenglow Boulders, Hamilton Boulders, Horsethief Butte and Empire Boulders

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 29 Apr
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