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Routes as sport in Elevenmile Canyon

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Showing all 40 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Knome Dome
5.9 Waterslide

This is the leftmost bolted line at Knome Dome. Starts by traversing left and then follows a water groove up to a chain anchor.

FFA: Bill Schmausser

Sport 24m
5.7 Sleeping Beauty

Second route from the left at Knome Dome. Follow bolts through a small roof. Nice mantle up on to the slab and to the anchors.

FFA: Bill Schmausser

Sport 25m, 8
5.11a Water Babies

Sustained technical edging and smearing on good rock. Starts fairly vertical and eases in difficulty as the angle gets more relaxed.

FFA: Stewart Green & Brian Shelton, 2006

Sport 18m
5.8 Tourists and Fishermen

2nd route from the right at Knome Dome, on the rightmost edge of the main slab. Start with an angling rightward traverse along a ramp and then head up to chain anchor just below the roof.

FFA: Bill Schmausser

Sport 22m, 6
5.5 Kiddo Climb

On the far right of the wall. The big chain anchors can be seen on the head wall.

Sport 21m, 8
Knome Dome Spray Wall
5.12d Spray Direct
Sport
5.13b/c Spray
Sport 18m
5.13d The Dark Arts
Sport 14m
5.13a Spew
Sport
5.13c/d Surefire
Sport 14m
5.13a Rapture

Starts with the obvious big chalked flake and leads up the steep wall. Perfect line with some perma draws.

Sport 17m, 6
5.14a Outre Salvo
Sport 14m, 7
5.13a Pagan Wisdom
Sport
5.13b Only Entertainment

Start on the slab and then go straight up the impressive head wall.

Sport 13m, 6
5.12d Mungamatic
Sport 12m, 7
5.10d Dad Speaks Parley

The left route on the right wall. Steep and nice!

Sport 12m, 5
5.11a Randy Speaks Farsi

Stick clip the first bolt, move right and up the steep wall.

Sport 13m, 5
5.11b Dan Speaks Darrly

Starts at the bottom of the wall. Climb the dihedral up to the roof to reach the anchors.

Sport 14m, 5
Arch Rock
5.6 Smiley Face

Cruiser climbing on solid granite. Located far left of the Staircase and away from the crowds.

FA: Stewart Green & Martha Morris, 2006

Sport 24m, 4
5.9 Kansas Honey

This bolted line is the second bolted route to the left of Hollow Flake, and the second bolted route to the right of Staircase. Start just right of a pine tree. Crux down low through the first two bolts, easing into cruiser terrain. Use a 70m rope if planning to lower.

FA: Leonard Coyne & Ed Russell, 1980

Sport 35m
5.10+ Zamboni Man

This bolted route climbs the left side of the pillar that is just right of the popular trad line "Hollow Flake"

FFA: Bill Schmausser, 1996

Sport 15m, 4
5.10 B - C Pride of Sweden

Begins off of the ledge atop Hollow Flake, Zamboni Man and Sprout Route. Follows the line of bolts to climber's right of the tree. Low crux leads to sustained and enjoyable friction.

FFA: Bill Schmausser

Sport 18m
Turret Dome
5.10a The Mexicanist

FA: Bill Schmausser & Britt Anderson, 2000

Sport 18m, 6
5.9 Car Stud

FA: Bill Schmausser & Britt Anderson, 2000

Sport 18m, 5
5.10a Sloppy Shoes

FA: Stewart Green & Dennis Jump, 2004

Sport 18m, 4
Messenger Wall
5.10a Archangel

FA: Stewart Green

Sport 58m, 12
5.9 Put It In Perspective

Shares the 3 bolt slab start of The Messenger and continues on the face above the left facing flake.

FA: Bill Schmausser

Sport 30m, 8
River Wall
5.9 Parallel Universes

The leftmost bolted line at the River Wall proper.

FA: Stewart Green & Brian Shelton, 2006

Sport 18m, 4
The Icebox
5.12b Ice, Ice, Baby
Sport 15m, 6
5.11c Queen Byron

First route after the big pine tree. Starts on top of the flake and follows the corner to a bulge (crux). Easier climbing along the dihedral to the anchor.

Sport 17m, 8
5.9 Hemisphere

Starts on top of the slab and follows big flakes. Great line!

Sport 20m, 7
5.6 Corneal Abrasion

This is the first pitch of Brain Freeze. It is the obvious slab to a low anchor.

Sport 14m, 5
5.10d Brain Freeze

This is Corneal Abrasion with its extension. You may climb that as one pitch, better not to clip the first anchor to reduce rope drag. One of the best 10's in the canyon. Slab climbing followed by stemming, smearing and laybacking up flakes and good crimps.

Sport 35m, 2, 15
5.12- The Microfridge

The last route accessed from the lower section at The Icebox.

Sport 21m, 7
5.11c Tenth Avenue Freeze-Out

The leftmost route on the "balcony" above. Bouldery start leads to great climbing on big flakes. 3-bolt anchor with a dubious middle bolt.

Sport 15m, 6
5.11b Ice Age

Starts with Tenth Avenue Freeze-Out for the first 2 bolts and then heads right.

Sport 24m, 7
5.13 The Iceboxer

Starts on the "balcony" just right of Ice Age.

Sport 24m, 10
5.12a Frozen in Time

Follow the base of the cliff up until you see a "cave like" structure. This route starts left of it on the steep face onto a slab and then climb the steep arete. Climbs steeper than it looks! Awesome!!

Sport 15m, 8
5.10 Unnamed Crack

Starts just left of the "cave" and leads into the steep crack above (which is the crux).

Sport 14m, 5
5.10 A Hard Rain's Gonna Fall

The rightmost route, right of the "cave". The crux is around bolt 1 followed by nice and easier climbing to the anchor.

Sport 19m, 7

Showing all 40 routes.

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