Ascents in Taos as Clean

Possible gear placements render it PG-13.

Got up it twice. Yay.

I had a bit of trouble in the crux zone, where the left wall and the right face roll into a crack. Done w/Fritz leading.

Some of rock feels as if it has little ball bearings on it.

Both times I climbed it I was off a bit to the left of the bolts, making the face climb more intense. Someday I will follow the bolts.

Tough 5.9 overhang, Then I took a mostly unremitting 5.7+/5.8 face somewhat left of the actual(easier)route.

Almost all of the climb is offsize. Requires Number 5 and 6 Camalots to protect. We don't have any that big, so we had to toprope it. Bypassed the crux on 5.8 friction.

Route zigs considerably to arete on the right. That was where Ed's mind was lost.

Hard enough to be interisting. Do-able enough to be fun. Slips past the toughest cruci on Ground Up (10 b/c).

Route we took to chains for Ground Up and How Ed Lost His Mind.

Nice friction pitch with some runout

5.5 X for adults, 5.6 X for kids. This route is charming, on greenish bumpy rock between unnamed 1 and Gila Monster. Goes up to tree. Kids should love it toproped.

Coulden't quite do the regular Zorro route crux, so did the variation instead.

Got a free try on this one. Used other climbers toprope to set our own. Most pro needed to lead it is tiny stuff; I'll pass.

Led most of it, but traded off and Fritz led the crux, so he gets lead credit. Route starts to the left of Chickenshit at a tree following cracks and depressions under a bulge at one's left and arcing across the top of a friction face to end at the top of Chickenshit. No record of this route, but someone probably did it as it is in an area with some 5.10's and 5.11's.

Two and 1/2 practice ascents. Had to work out the crux. A family with two subteen girls climbing something slightly tougher, so I can't climb as good as a fifth grader.