Ascents in Tennessee having Beta

The starting crux gave me a hell of a time last winter. Today changed to the heel hook beta and went down 2nd go after a bolt to bolt warmup run. Hard for 12a.

Nowhere close to Leakage. Only about 11b until the actual “seam” move.

Countless attempts over 4 years. Went from scary-as-shit to fun-as-hell. Yee-fuckin’-haw! Soft for 5.13 but I’m taking the points with how much effort and time this required. I must’ve fallen 20+ times on that swing.

3 tries total over 3.5 years. Felt good to have revenge on a route that hurt my feelings

Face is not the greatest, but the roof climbing is epic.

3rd try, 2 sessions. Pretty soft compared to some other 13’s at the Obed. Upper-roof crux varies in difficulty depending on your height, I think.

Really satisfying to put this one together.

Hard to read crux down low. Pretty cool, but a little desperate. The remaining climbing is actually quite pleasant though.

3 sessions. One of the coolest boulder problems on any Obed route. Some very strong climbers over the years have all given this 12d, but you'll find a few that give it 12b/c. Definitely doesn’t stack up to Canyon Man or The Vision Lives on for difficulty.

Can’t claim the OS since I think I tried it sometime in high school or early college. Manky today but still super fun.

A little spicy for the grade and pretty hard to read up top. Dirty. 25 ft runout to the first bolt.

Fell after grabbing a sleeping bat behind the handlebar jug

guess the endurance is still on point!

Wet top but good warm up

Hated this thing when I first tried it. The crux demands absolute perfection from your climbing ability, with precise control of foot movements and solid core. After spending some quality time with it over 4 sessions the send-go couldn’t have felt better and might have been the most enjoyable ride of the season so far.

Locker room 12+

Locker room 12+

Locker room 12+

That was satisfying. First go of the season. 2 letter-grades harder than The Odyssey, and 1 letter-grade harder than The Bird.

One of the best of the best. Could be considered 5.11+, depending how good you are at kneebars…but in no reality is this 12b.

Really great, consistent movement for the grade. Lower crux is rather height-dependent and more like 11c. Usually dry when Herbivore and Carnivore are wet.

Tried this years ago in college and only remembered when I started touching the holds, so not technically an Onsight.

5.12a/b. Second go. Easier than Tieranny. Really fun movement, quite overlooked for how good it is.

Most people give this solid 12b which is interesting.

Some puckering, airy moves on jugs with sparse feet. Epic mental warmup. Worth doing just for the spacewalk finishing traverse.

A sleeping classic. Deserves more attention.

Shrooming Path. So sick!

Left of Chestnut

Never ending story - with Grechy

Chestnut left

Kruesi - Sarah hung the draws

Much better on the start than last year when I just gave it one go with a stick clip, but the first session was a wash, and second session I botched the beta on my warm-up. Oops! It went, though... and with an ACL tear I didn't know about, just some instability of my knee

One hang

One hang

Hanging draws

dihedrals, The Pudding (with Beckett) hard crux! need more time to figure out some footwork but ran out of skin and juice.

dihedrals, Marble (with Beckett)

dihedrals, Marble (with Beckett)

dihedrals, Sugar Loafin (with Beckett)

dihedrals, Rapa Nui (with Beckett)

FINALLY unlocked the crux beta, so excited!! Feeling possible now

12a in the book and MP... feels like 12a

Not your average quickie - with francois

Lord of the Rings, dihedrals, with Francois