Routes as trad in Wasatch Front

Potential mixed lines exist within the waterfall basin.

Low angle face to corner. Step across and traverse right trending crack below knifeblade ridge. Finish through notch gaining prominent ledge, gear anchor.

Rack: nuts, #0.1-#2

Steep hand crack through horizontal roof. Finish on face following right leading crack to anchor. Be cautious as the rock strength is questionable with potential to blow gear during a fall.

Rack singles to #0.75, triples #1-#2

Approach: From the main crag look south and you will see a small spire protruding into the skyline, this is the route. A small amount of bushwacking will get you to the base (41.209743, -111.929628).

Rack: Small cams or nuts for top portion.

Bolts supplemented with small to medium cams

From the start of Graffiti Ridge, continue north along base following faint climber's trail. The Spa Crag houses 4 5-easy trad lines. These were developed by a local community member involved with SPI, S&R, and Weber State programs so please be respectful and move on if training groups are present.

There are 4 routes <5.5 with fixed anchors.

Elevation gain <750ft

Ridge scramble north of Graffiti Cave. Approach as for Graffiti Cave then cut north toward the cliff toe. Follow the most appealing route. Class 5 segments exist for the initiated or bypassed if desired.

Egress

-North: Hike northeast/ east to gain hidden valley trail

-Southwest: Navigate down gully, aiming for Graffiti Cave. Either repel or scramble to base of Graffiti Cave.

South facing, broken slab left of Graffiti Cave with various lines to choose. Mostly ~5.6 climbing with harder moves through midsection. Start low below the graffiti cave ledge and avoid the corner. Angle right toward belay tree. Walk off to Graffiti Cave repel or scramble to base.

Standard rack

Climb through roof then follow left leading crack on upper face.

Rack to #1

Same start as Catharsis. Trend right moving through features on upper face.

Rack to #1

Obvious widening crack on right side

Rack to #2

An arbitrary route. Follows flakes right trending in semi-circle back to ground level.

Standard rack

Climb flakes heading left up slab. Build belay on ledge.

Descend via Sunday School belay a short distance to the south.

Rack to #3

Same flakes as Super Bowl Sunday. Instead of moving across slab continue up and right climbing through a corner. Finish at Sunday School belay.

Rack to #2

Start vertical face left of Sunday School (PG-13), or blocky arrete left of face. Move across slab and through overhanging traverse.

Rack small gear to #2

Start in low angled chimney to slab. Continue up left tending hand crack to corner to belay ledge.

Rack to #3

Climb slabs left of Easy Like Sunday. Finish moving left to Sunday School belay. Direct Var. 5.9PG13

Rack small gear to #2

Climbs through obvious gully, finishing at Sunday School belay to the left.

Rack to #3

Starts in crack below slab and right of gully. Climb through the slab finishing at belay for Ritualistically Unclean.

Rack to #3

Climb right side of varnished slab trending left. Finish straight up headwall to belay station.

Rack to #3

Began as for Ritualistically Unclean but continue straight up through left facing corner instead of climbing through the slab. Finish at belay station.

Rack to #3

Left facing corner to bulging crack. Follow slab cracks to belay station.

Rack to #3

A sizable corner at south end.

Rack to #3, optional #4

Immediately left of Rust Pin, corner to left face finish.

Rack 0.1-0.75

Climbs the steep, lichen covered crack system just left of the Orange crush dihedral.

Fun stemming up a dihedral below the cable traverse. Can be easily toproped.

Classic route through shallow, flared jams leads to a bulge and insecure upper flared crack.

Rack to #1

Offers an alternative access for the 4x4 ledge, or egress from the Basement. Several variations exist. Follow corner & exit left to ledge (5.8R); exit corner right, traverse roof, & finish through upper face slinging a boulder near Gagnsta Ledge access for anchor (5.7); climb broken face right of corner to 4X4 ledge & anchor boulder (~5.5)

Standard rack.

Obvious corner located on north end of wall. Shares anchor with Bound for Glory.

Rack to #3.

First obvious crack right of E Street. Variety of jams and bulge crux.

Small gear #0-2

Climb small roof and bulge above Flamingo Lane start using thin cracks.

Rack small gear to #1

Right trending crack & flake features lead to belay ledge above Pocket Loverboy.

Rack to #3

• Direct start variation, Flamingo Lane. Easy run out low PG.

Rack to #4

Corner right of Teardrops on the City. Moves left through roof. Shares anchor with Teardrops on the City

Rack small cams to #2.

-Variation (5.9 PG), traverse right under roof to Giants of Science anchor.

Climb through bulge using hand crack.

Rack to #2

Giants of Science or Lucky Town anchors.

Alternatively belay off ledge. Finish with Class III traverse south along ledge or top out cliff with a short pitch.

Last route encountered before southern cable traverse. Moderate climbing to bolt, thin face crux, & quality 5.9ish finish.

Standard rack to #0.75, passive gear.

Short route through left facing dihedral next to Takeda Route gains Upper Alcove ledge. Build natural or gear belay.

Rack to #3.

Fingers to hands crack on left hand side.

Rack to #3

Follows black streaked crack.

Classic hand crack, option to finish on Universal Current or clip bolts on Raktajino.

Rack to #2, doubles #1.

Rack to #3

Left facing dihedral north of the Tangerine. Climbs face with crack for protection. Gear belay on top, descend south using tree crack area repel stations.

Rack to #6, doubles 3-6.

Rack to #1

Standard Rack, rappel off.

1 bolt for start crux.

Rack to #3.

Climb cracks up & around arete.

Rack to #3

Climb through ledges & flakes to splinter hand crack. Be cautious of loos blocks on topout.

Rack small to #2.

Climb to ledge at start of route. Trend left following flakes and ledges aiming for the upper corner.

Rack to #3

Alternate finish to Solar Flare & Rocketsauce. Traverse right along crack intersecting Rocketsauce at 8th bolt. 1 or 2 pitches.

Rack to #3

Direct finish for Solar Flare

Rack to #2

Var. (10dR): direct variation.

Small nuts/ micro cams to #2

Mixed route starting with 3 bolts.

Rack to #3

Approach as for Utahnics and continue north along base. Locate Tree Crack and find moderate crack. Belay off single bolt.

Rack to #3.

Climbs below prominent overhang.

Climb west face right of overhang (PG13).

Rack to #3

Climb slab to corner in the back of overhang. Move right on horizontal crack beneath roof.

Rack to #3

Climb up and left to left most corner of the roof. Travers under roof walking cams. Exiting roof is the crux for variations 2 & 3.

Climb corner toward large detached block. Finish on diagonal finger to hand crack. Be mindful of sharp corners.

Rack to #4, double #1-#3

Below the Great Flake is a fixed line to access lower class broken terrain and gain 4X4 ledge.

Nuts and cams to #1

Rack to #3

Rack to #3

Rack to #2.

Rack to #3

An ambiguous and notorious Greg Lowe route ascending a right arching corner above Utahnic wall ranging from ~10R-11+X depending on line.

Standard rack, singles to #1, doubles #1-#3

Descent: Walk north to Tree Crack sector and repel from summit tree or anchors at lip.

A little know route climbing an obvious feature......

Start on face south of large arete/ left side of corner. Pass pitons continuing up and left finishing through upper dihedral.

Rack to #3

Start in large corner south of 27th Overhang.

5.8 C2. Thin seem through face. Moderate climbing to topout.

Standard rack, multiple of small cams & nuts.

Begins in corner & climbs to rim.

rack to #3

Follow alternating bolts & horizontal breaks.

Rack to #2

Clip a lone bolt continuing up face using breaks & bods for protection.

Rack to #2

Climb corner to ledge then move left through breaks & pods.

Rack to #3

Climb corner then follow first set of bolts on upper headwall.

Rack to #2

Rack to #3, 70m rope.

Rack to #3, 70m rope.

Breaks & pods lead to corner.

Rack to #2

Rack to #2

Rack to #3

Snake Eyes var. finish. Move left at the start of pitch 2 through small corner. Move back right to gain pitch 2 anchor.

Rack to #2, 70m rope.

Bouldery steep face climbing. Excellent for the grade and great top rope route. Boulders along base make this PG-13/R for leading. Several variations 10+ to 11 range. (41.2173292, -111.9257018)

Rack #0.4-#2

A bolted alpine multipitch heading up the cliff toe south of Ogden Peak and adjacent to Needles Lodge, (41.195116, -111.873204).

Small rack #.5-#2, or passive rack are recommended to supplement bolts.

1. 12 bolts. 55m. 5.8: Climbs through small roof following the face to bolted belay.

2. 2 bolts. 20m. 5.7: Scramble over and down the tops of this initial rock face. Continue up arete, bolted belay. Move belay, 20m. Class III: Move along ridge finding a small saddle below the "White Overhang" feature.

3. 6 bolts. 30m. 5.8: Climb through roof and continue up face. Look for pitons with webbing. Continue left of corner and through upper roof to bolted belay. Move belay, 1 bolt. 10m. Class III: Exposed scramble right and down passing pillar which divides final needle.

4. 2 bolts. 20m. 5.6: Continue up face right of pillar. Bolted belay.

5. 7 bolts. 35m. 5.7: Final pitches can be linked. head up face passing through an upper roof. Bolted belay, flat top out, and summit register.

Egress: Repel final needle to base of pitch 4. Scramble across saddle and easy downclimb to trail on north side leading to Needles Gondola.

Ascends east flank of final needle through a low angled corner and roof.

Rack small to #1

An excellent alpine, bolted multipitch ascending the east face of Mt Ogden to summit. Route starts at Upper Ogden Bowl near south east toe of cliff, (41.199937, -111.877582)

Rack #.5-2 or passive rack to supplement bolts.

Standard approach,

1. 9 bolts. 35m. 5.9: Crux pitch right at the start. Excellent slab climbing up face passing pitons. 2 bolt belay.

2. 6 bolts. 33m. 5.8: Stay right of arete passing through upper roof. Continue to 2 bolt belay. Move belay: Class IV, 50m. Scramble up broken section along left facing corner.

3. 3 bolts. 50m. 5.4: Follow ridge passing small roof and continuing up arete to 2 bolt belay.

4. 7 bolts. 35m. 5.8: Right trending hand crack eventually stepping across small gully. Climb right facing dihedral next to roof stepping out over roof and continuing up face. 2 bolt belay.

5. 5 bolts. 25m. 5.7: Trend right through multiple ledges. Find overhang with piton & bolt belay underneath.

6. 5 bolts. 25m. 5.6: Move right around corner climbing straight up face & passing piton with webbing. 2 bolt belay.

7. 80m. 5.5, mostly Class IV: Scramble up arete & continue on right side of ridge. 2 bolt belay.

8. 6 bolts. 35m. 5.6: Follow bolts right trending to ledge with 2 bolt belay & route register.

9. 2 bolts. 60m. 5.5: Find bolts marked with webbing along arete. Climb until it ends building belay where appropriate. Final Class III scramble to Mt Ogden summit.

Egress: Walk off south from summit gaining trail.

Tricky slab route following thin crack

Small cams & nuts

Continue up gully past Bumbling Gumbies eventually gaining the base of upper spire. Original route started on south side and moved clockwise passing pitons.

Standard rack

Direct start var. to Diamond Spire: 1 or 2 pitches climbing west flank of The Diamond cliff formation. Begin right and up gully from Diamond Direct following decent yet questionable broken slab face, bushy Class III/IV terrain, then finishing on Diamond Spire west face.

Descend: repel & walk off east gully.

Standard rack to #3.

Begin on right trending crack then traverse under roof finishing on slab. Build anchor on ledge and walk off. Less than inspiring placements pg-13.

Rack to #2

You can begin by climbing to first bolt of No Nuts but is not necessary. Pull roof and continue up face or traverse left and around roof. Finish on face with anchors left or up and right.

Rack to #2

Left facing corner.

Rack to #2

Thin tricky to protect route.

Rack small cams- #1, micro-nuts, ball nuts.

Good lead for newer trad leaders.

Rack to #3