Routes in Wasatch Front for selected grade

Bring material to sling a horn for an anchor

Follow ramp up and left, finish on steep face.

Climb broken face trending right at 5th bolt.

Climbs up through 2 bulges.

Pulls left of roof near 2nd bolt.

Climb through roof then follow left leading crack on upper face.

Rack to #1

Immediately left of Rust Pin, corner to left face finish.

Rack 0.1-0.75

Fun stemming up a dihedral below the cable traverse. Can be easily toproped.

-Variation (5.9 PG), traverse right under roof to Giants of Science anchor.

Var. finish through right trending crack in upper headwall.

climb through corner to anchor

Mellow climbing to exciting finish.

Climb to ledge at start of route. Trend left following flakes and ledges aiming for the upper corner.

Rack to #3

Alternate finish to Solar Flare & Rocketsauce. Traverse right along crack intersecting Rocketsauce at 8th bolt. 1 or 2 pitches.

Rack to #3

Mixed route starting with 3 bolts.

Rack to #3

Climb corner toward large detached block. Finish on diagonal finger to hand crack. Be mindful of sharp corners.

Rack to #4, double #1-#3

Nuts and cams to #1

Follow alternating bolts & horizontal breaks.

Rack to #2

Climb corner to ledge then move left through breaks & pods.

Rack to #3

3 bolt belay.

An excellent alpine, bolted multipitch ascending the east face of Mt Ogden to summit. Route starts at Upper Ogden Bowl near south east toe of cliff, (41.199937, -111.877582)

Rack #.5-2 or passive rack to supplement bolts.

Standard approach,

1. 9 bolts. 35m. 5.9: Crux pitch right at the start. Excellent slab climbing up face passing pitons. 2 bolt belay.

2. 6 bolts. 33m. 5.8: Stay right of arete passing through upper roof. Continue to 2 bolt belay. Move belay: Class IV, 50m. Scramble up broken section along left facing corner.

3. 3 bolts. 50m. 5.4: Follow ridge passing small roof and continuing up arete to 2 bolt belay.

4. 7 bolts. 35m. 5.8: Right trending hand crack eventually stepping across small gully. Climb right facing dihedral next to roof stepping out over roof and continuing up face. 2 bolt belay.

5. 5 bolts. 25m. 5.7: Trend right through multiple ledges. Find overhang with piton & bolt belay underneath.

6. 5 bolts. 25m. 5.6: Move right around corner climbing straight up face & passing piton with webbing. 2 bolt belay.

7. 80m. 5.5, mostly Class IV: Scramble up arete & continue on right side of ridge. 2 bolt belay.

8. 6 bolts. 35m. 5.6: Follow bolts right trending to ledge with 2 bolt belay & route register.

9. 2 bolts. 60m. 5.5: Find bolts marked with webbing along arete. Climb until it ends building belay where appropriate. Final Class III scramble to Mt Ogden summit.

Egress: Walk off south from summit gaining trail.

~100ft West of the lower wall. Begins either following a moderate ramp or climbing directly to a high first bolt.

Slab edges up face.

Left facing corner.

Rack to #2

Friction slab solo, no gear until the end.

Begin on thin crack. Pull roof or traverse left to bypass crux. Finish on dihedral or face right of arete. Build belay.

Standard rack

Protection is all there although it may not be obvious. Sustained 9+ climbing.

Rack small cams & nuts

Fist- offwidth(ish) route left of obvious corner. Full value for the grade with occasional holds. Slung horn for anchor. Rack: single #.75-#3, #4 x2, optional #5?, nuts for the topout.

Approach:

1. NOT recommended: climbing loose vegetated terrain directly below route.

2. Hike/Scramble class III/IV terrain right of route. Ascend until narrow cat walk is gained accessing a ledge midway and right of route. Rappel from tree to base of route.

Descent: rappel to fixed anchor near base of route.

Climb R rated questionable & runout slab between sport lines. Originally this began ascending poor cracks off the road!

An excellent off-fist/ offwidth established by Yvon Chouinard. This line is on west side of approach gully.

Rack #1-#4

Follow bolt line for 5.9, veer right at 2nd bolt for 5.8.

Moderate terrain to steep upper headwall. Staying on bolt line 9+ or veer right to finish on easier jugs.

Intricate slab route with several possibilities.

-Variation:

Rack: singles to #3, doubles #0.5-#1

1. Either begin on Avoiding the Issue or left of Pterodactyl trending up and left through broken terrain aiming for ledge below upper roofs.

2. 35m. 5.9: Ascend right side wall toward roofs and staying right of roofs to belay ledge.

3. Move belay to below upper roof headwall.

4. 5.10a: Climb crack right of roof.

-Variation:

Rack: Singles to #3, doubles #0.5-#2 recommended, #4 optional

1. Begin as for Avoiding the Issues & Bloody Show aiming for first ledge below roofs.

2. 45m. 5.8: Ascend face left of roofs through horizontal breaks.

3. Class IV/ 5.easy: Move belay up and north to right facing corner, left of upper roof.

4. 20m. 5.9: Climb corner then continue to topout.

1. Start var. 5.9: Climb south face of buttress further in canyon past darker rock band ~(41.272848, -111.939493).

2. Var. Move right under large roof.

3. Chimney Var. 5.7: Climb & exit chimney on left side.

4. Exit Var. 5.5: Stay in corner to exit.

Not for the faint of heart, moderate terrain leads to questionable roofs, finishing on excellent headwall above.

Approach: As for Eagle's Roost aiming for right side of buttress. Begin near base of buttress near the transition of gully to chimney ~(41.273139, -111939271).

1. 20m. 5.6: Climb face angling right on arete to belay ledge.

2. 25m. 5.7: Proceed up arete on right side. Pass through roof and follow chossy gully. Belay below next headwall.

3. 30m. 5.8: Continue on vertical head wall moving left to avoid loose chockstones. Gain angling ledge following it left around prow to belay below loose roofs.

4. 35m. 5.9 R/X: Pull through roofs with questionable rock and protection placements. Maneuver left then back right finally reaching stacked ledges. Finish on easy terrain & belay at base of upper headwall.

5. 50m. 5.8: Finish on Eagle's Roost head wall with excellent horizontal breaks.

Standard rack, doubles #0.2-#1

1. Thin finger crack leads to arete. Build belay on ledge.

2. Continue up hand crack which turns to off width. Build belay.

Walk off Class IV gully behind route.

Rack thin to #3

Begins on steeper terrain below Northwest Ridge saddle

Finger to hands crack west and across gully from base of Air to Spare.

Rack to #3

Mixed multi-pitch adventure climbing with excellent exposure and position near the northern mouth of Willard canyon, (41.4166362, -112.0169922). Walk into canyon then switchback near conifer tree on north side to traverse talus to base of route. Bolted belays unless noted.

70m rope, 12 draws & single rack #.4-#2.

1. 9 bolts. 40m. 5.8+: Crux pitch follows arete.

2. 5 bolts. 25m. Bolt to start pitch. Follow traversing crack to finish on bolts.

3. 4 bolts. 20m. Climbs face directly above belay.

4. 3 bolts. 30m. Continue on face. Gear belay on slab below roof.

5. 2 bolts. 25m. Finish on corner gaining chain belay above roof.

Egress: 3 Rappels to descent gully, 2nd is down & left.

"Through hardships to the Stars"