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Winslow Wall Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Bernii kletterlisa Bibi Garcia Felix Parham craig Nate Penman

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Table of contents

1. Winslow Wall 100 routes in Crag

Summary:
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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.940101, -110.662886

summary

High quality rock in a secluded canyon, in the middle of the flat surroundings of Winslow. A beautiful, almost mystical place with sport and trad climbs and even some deep water soloing.

description

Bomber sandstone of a quality that comes close to the one in the Red River Gorge in a small canyon. Some of the climbs require "wet feet" or even raft belays. Depending on the season (and the water level) accessibility to the climbs varies. The West Side and the East Side are just 30 / 40 meters apart allowing you to switch between sun and shade as you wish. The bottom of the canyon sees shade for most of the day though.

approach

Take highway 99 south of Winslow east for about 10km. At about milemarker 6 you will see a sign for Territorial Road going left, pass it and look for a fence on the right. Just after the fence begins a dirt road following the fence. Take this road for a little more than a kilometer at which point the better marked one will lead you away from the fence to the left, take this road to its end (another kilometer) where you will find a parking just on top of the canyon.

From there follow the well marked trail along the rim of the canyon for a few hundred meters until you see cairns marking the way down. Scramble down into the gully until you reach the rapelling station with 2 fixed ropes.

You might want to take an ascender for the way back up if you don't want to use the knotted rope and climb up the chimney. Alternatively you may climb Slabalanche (5.6) just left of the ascent gully.

where to stay

You may camp at the parking. There are no facilities.

ethic

The road following the fence crosses private land, please be respectful to ensure ongoing access.

Please pack out EVERYTHING you bring in. Please poop only above the rim.

1.1. West Wall 48 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 34.939719, -110.662986

approach

Same as for Winslow Wall, once down in the canyon cross the river.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Perfection Project 5.14c Sport
2 I Feel So Funky 5.13- Sport
3 Can I Borrow Some Draws? 5.11b Sport
4 Throw Down the Gauntlet 5.13 Sport
5 Pirates of the Carabiner 5.10a Sport
6 Credit Card 5.13 Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 The Black Douglas 5.11d Sport
8 Die-Agonal 5.11 Trad 82ft
9 King Snake 5.9 Trad 150ft

Downstream from access gully

These routes are downstream across the access gully (when you cross at the big block in the middle of the river).

11 Hangin' Judge 5.12a Trad 130ft
12 The Sandstoner

Shares anchor with The Dopeman. Starts in the "bowl" with some stemming and takes the left bolt line up.

5.12a Sport 62ft, 6
13 The Dopeman

Shares anchor with The Sandstoner.

5.12b Sport 62ft, 7
14 She Bro 5.12a Sport 66ft
15 He Bro

Starts just left of Has Bro on the face.

5.12 Sport 52ft, 8
16 Has Bro

The obvious "round" arrete leading to a small roof and a crack to the anchor.

5.11d Sport 52ft, 8
17 Real Big Kung Fu 5.14a Sport 46ft
18 Grey Matter

The right one of the 2 overhanging routes.

5.12c Sport 43ft, 6
19 Om Sweet Om

Balancy traverse right to first bolt, up to slab and nice corner moves.

5.10b Sport 72ft, 6
20 Bro Job

Just around the corner of Om Sweet Om on the dark face. Crimps and edges!

5.11b Sport 72ft, 8
21 Black Juju 5.8 Trad 75ft
22 The Brotherhood 5.12b Sport 89ft
23 French Kissing The Cobra

FA: Matt Childers & Rodman

5.13b Sport 98ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Stick It 5.10c Trad
25 Crack and Shatter 5.14b Sport 82ft
26 Caligula

FA: Matt Childers & David Bloom

5.13b Sport 75ft
27 Picture Me Rollin' 5.13b/c Sport 85ft
28 The Winsloner 5.11c Sport 98ft, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
29 Darkstar / Dark Star

Bolted anchor at about 30m or continue to the top (about 40m).

5.10- Trad 98ft
30 Slim Shady 5.10 Trad 89ft
31 Valley Girl 5.10d Sport 89ft
32 Lady Boys 5.11- Trad 150ft, 2
33 Slap My Fro

Follows the obvious arete. One of America's top 100 routes!

5.12b Sport 92ft, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 Hot Chocolate 5.10+ Trad 82ft
35 Anti-Venom 5.11+ Mixed trad 89ft, 3
36 Sh'ash Nizhitl / The Bear that is Brown

Face climbing on brown patina.

5.12c Sport 89ft, 10
37 American Beauty 5.10+ Unknown
38 Saturday the 14th 5.9 Mixed trad 75ft, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Lemongello 5.11a Mixed trad 49ft, 3
40 Orangello 5.12b Sport 7
41 Bocephus 5.11d Mixed trad 49ft, 4

Grassy area

These routes are further downstream along the grassy area.

43 BlackzillaH 5.12+ Sport 82ft
44 Ebonics 5.11 Sport 79ft
45 Vanilla Voodoo 5.11c Sport 82ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Beer Snake 5.12a Sport 98ft
47 Barracuda 5.12b Sport 98ft
48 Beach Blanket Bingo 5.9 Trad 75ft
49 Baby Seal 5.12b Sport 110ft
50 Bronzing 5.12d Sport 89ft

1.2. East Wall 52 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 34.939806, -110.662400

approach

Same as for Winslow Wall, once down in the canyon stay on the side of the access gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Downstream from access gully

These routes are downstream from the access gully, listed left (furthest down) to right (closest to access gully).

2 Contact High 5.10 Trad 82ft
3 Spontaneous Baby Consumption 5.12c Sport 9
4 Mannish Boy 5.11a Mixed trad 89ft, 6
5 Muddy Waters 5.11c/d Mixed trad 89ft, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Special Dark

Tree at the start/belay.

5.12a Sport 82ft, 10
7 The Godfather of Soul

Shares anchor with Mulva.

5.11+ Sport 89ft, 8
8 Mulva

Located left of Aqua-Vulva.

5.11b Sport 89ft
9 Aqua-Vulva

Starts by the tree.

5.11 Sport
10 Negative 29 5.12 Sport 98ft, 10, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Cold Sweat

Goes almost all the way to the top of the James Brown wall, following patina edges. Watch the rope length!

5.12 Sport 120ft, 12
12 Sex Machine 5.11c Sport 89ft, 12
13 Get On Up 5.12b Sport
14 Skull Fracture

Climb up to the ledge (2 bolts) where teh route staarts. The first 2 bolts have chains on them.

5.13c Sport 110ft, 12
15 Lost Teva Crack 5.10+ Trad 49ft
16 Swamp Thing 5.11d Sport 49ft, 6
17 Om On The Range 5.10+ Sport 49ft, 4
18 Cleon Jones 5.11a Sport 49ft
19 Unknown chimney

Retrobolted

5.10 Sport 49ft
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 Slab My Bitch Up 5.12b Sport 59ft
21 Fontainebleau Heron Addict 5.12c Sport 89ft, 10
22 Atlas Shrugged

Starts just right of the diagonal crack.

5.12c Sport 72ft, 10
23 Angry Johnny

Follows the diagonal crack line.

5.11a/b Trad 69ft
24 Fronthand Backhand 5.13 Sport 39ft
25 Shiva's Lunchbox

Starts deep inside the alcove, climb up on the ledge and belay from there. Always shady.

5.10- Sport 66ft, 6
26 God Save the Queen

The middle route on the north wall of the alcove.

5.12c Sport 49ft
27 The Filth and the Fury

The rightmost route on the north wall of the alcove, follows the arete.

5.12a Sport 49ft
28 Unknown 1

West facing, 15 meters left of Standing on a Corner. You can see the anchor above the ledge.

5.11a Sport 59ft, 8
29 Unknown 2

Starts right of the "Unknown 1" route on the slab. Shares the anchor but you have to move quite a bit left to reach it.

Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Standin On A Corner

Starts in the small gully left of The Girlfriend Route Direct up on the nice face with edges and crimps.

5.10d Sport 66ft, 7
31 The Girlfriend Route Direct

The low angle arrete just left (when looking towards it) of the access gully.

5.8 Sport 92ft, 8
32 Slabalanche

Alternate exit from the canyon. Starts just left of the access gully.

5.6 Sport 98ft, 10

Upstream from access gully

Theses routes are upstream from the access gully starting with the one just right of the rappel line.

34 Artie The One Man Party

Right of the rappel line. Anchor at the same height.

5.10b Sport 46ft, 5
35 Cherry Twist

Upstream on the sandy beach opposite of Hanging Judge.

5.11d Sport 98ft, 10
36 Chalk A Lot, Shake

Just right of Cherry Twist.

5.12b/c Sport 89ft
37 The Soda Special

Next to Chalk A Lot, Shake.

5.10 Trad 89ft
38 Tech Sergeant Chen 5.10c R Sport 39ft
39 Safety Dance

Dry start

5.11a Sport 89ft
40 Mr. Glass

Dry start

5.12a Sport 89ft
41 Moss 5.9 Sport 33ft
42 Choss

Just right of Moss. Shares the anchor.

5.9 Sport 33ft
43 Gloss

Along the rounded flake.

5.9 Sport 33ft
44 Sauce

Shares anchor with Boss.

5.10b Sport 33ft
45 Boss

Shares anchor with Sauce.

5.10c Sport 33ft
46 Dross 5.10d Sport 33ft
47 The Runnels Route

Water/raft start.

5.11b Sport 82ft

Location unknown

The location of these routes is unknown. If you know where they are, please re-sort them.

49 Cruise Control 5.9 Unknown
50 Route 1 5.7 Unknown
51 Fallen Angel 5.10 Unknown
52 Plunge Line 5.9 Unknown
53 Stranger in Paradise 5.10 Unknown
54 Flood Gates 5.9 Unknown
55 The Womb 5.7 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.6 Slabalanche Sport 98ft, 10 1.2. East Wall
5.7 Route 1 Unknown 1.2. East Wall
The Womb Unknown 1.2. East Wall
5.8 Black Juju Trad 75ft 1.1. West Wall
The Girlfriend Route Direct Sport 92ft, 8 1.2. East Wall
5.9 Beach Blanket Bingo Trad 75ft 1.1. West Wall
King Snake Trad 150ft 1.1. West Wall
Saturday the 14th Mixed trad 75ft, 3 1.1. West Wall
Choss Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
Cruise Control Unknown 1.2. East Wall
Flood Gates Unknown 1.2. East Wall
Gloss Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
Moss Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
Plunge Line Unknown 1.2. East Wall
5.10- Darkstar Trad 98ft 1.1. West Wall
Shiva's Lunchbox Sport 66ft, 6 1.2. East Wall
5.10a Pirates of the Carabiner Sport 1.1. West Wall
5.10b Om Sweet Om Sport 72ft, 6 1.1. West Wall
Artie The One Man Party Sport 46ft, 5 1.2. East Wall
Sauce Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
5.10c Stick It Trad 1.1. West Wall
Boss Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
5.10c R Tech Sergeant Chen Sport 39ft 1.2. East Wall
5.10 Slim Shady Trad 89ft 1.1. West Wall
Contact High Trad 82ft 1.2. East Wall
Fallen Angel Unknown 1.2. East Wall
Stranger in Paradise Unknown 1.2. East Wall
The Soda Special Trad 89ft 1.2. East Wall
Unknown chimney Sport 49ft 1.2. East Wall
5.10d Valley Girl Sport 89ft 1.1. West Wall
Dross Sport 33ft 1.2. East Wall
Standin On A Corner Sport 66ft, 7 1.2. East Wall
5.10+ American Beauty Unknown 1.1. West Wall
Hot Chocolate Trad 82ft 1.1. West Wall
Lost Teva Crack Trad 49ft 1.2. East Wall
Om On The Range Sport 49ft, 4 1.2. East Wall
5.11- Lady Boys Trad 150ft, 2 1.1. West Wall
5.11a Lemongello Mixed trad 49ft, 3 1.1. West Wall
Cleon Jones Sport 49ft 1.2. East Wall
Mannish Boy Mixed trad 89ft, 6 1.2. East Wall
Safety Dance Sport 89ft 1.2. East Wall
Unknown 1 Sport 59ft, 8 1.2. East Wall
5.11a/b Angry Johnny Trad 69ft 1.2. East Wall
5.11b Bro Job Sport 72ft, 8 1.1. West Wall
Can I Borrow Some Draws? Sport 1.1. West Wall
Mulva Sport 89ft 1.2. East Wall
The Runnels Route Sport 82ft 1.2. East Wall
5.11c The Winsloner Sport 98ft, 11 1.1. West Wall
Vanilla Voodoo Sport 82ft 1.1. West Wall
Sex Machine Sport 89ft, 12 1.2. East Wall
5.11 Die-Agonal Trad 82ft 1.1. West Wall
Ebonics Sport 79ft 1.1. West Wall
Aqua-Vulva Sport 1.2. East Wall
5.11c/d Muddy Waters Mixed trad 89ft, 3 1.2. East Wall
5.11d Bocephus Mixed trad 49ft, 4 1.1. West Wall
Has Bro Sport 52ft, 8 1.1. West Wall
The Black Douglas Sport 1.1. West Wall
Cherry Twist Sport 98ft, 10 1.2. East Wall
Swamp Thing Sport 49ft, 6 1.2. East Wall
5.11+ Anti-Venom Mixed trad 89ft, 3 1.1. West Wall
The Godfather of Soul Sport 89ft, 8 1.2. East Wall
5.12a Beer Snake Sport 98ft 1.1. West Wall
Hangin' Judge Trad 130ft 1.1. West Wall
She Bro Sport 66ft 1.1. West Wall
The Sandstoner Sport 62ft, 6 1.1. West Wall
Mr. Glass Sport 89ft 1.2. East Wall
Special Dark Sport 82ft, 10 1.2. East Wall
The Filth and the Fury Sport 49ft 1.2. East Wall
5.12b Baby Seal Sport 110ft 1.1. West Wall
Barracuda Sport 98ft 1.1. West Wall
Orangello Sport 7 1.1. West Wall
Slap My Fro Sport 92ft, 11 1.1. West Wall
The Brotherhood Sport 89ft 1.1. West Wall
The Dopeman Sport 62ft, 7 1.1. West Wall
Get On Up Sport 1.2. East Wall
Slab My Bitch Up Sport 59ft 1.2. East Wall
5.12b/c Chalk A Lot, Shake Sport 89ft 1.2. East Wall
5.12c Grey Matter Sport 43ft, 6 1.1. West Wall
Sh'ash Nizhitl Sport 89ft, 10 1.1. West Wall
Atlas Shrugged Sport 72ft, 10 1.2. East Wall
Fontainebleau Heron Addict Sport 89ft, 10 1.2. East Wall
God Save the Queen Sport 49ft 1.2. East Wall
Spontaneous Baby Consumption Sport 9 1.2. East Wall
5.12 He Bro Sport 52ft, 8 1.1. West Wall
Cold Sweat Sport 120ft, 12 1.2. East Wall
Negative 29 Sport 98ft, 10, 12 1.2. East Wall
5.12d Bronzing Sport 89ft 1.1. West Wall
5.12+ BlackzillaH Sport 82ft 1.1. West Wall
5.13- I Feel So Funky Sport 1.1. West Wall
5.13b Caligula Sport 75ft 1.1. West Wall
French Kissing The Cobra Sport 98ft 1.1. West Wall
5.13b/c Picture Me Rollin' Sport 85ft 1.1. West Wall
5.13c Skull Fracture Sport 110ft, 12 1.2. East Wall
5.13 Credit Card Sport 1.1. West Wall
Throw Down the Gauntlet Sport 1.1. West Wall
Fronthand Backhand Sport 39ft 1.2. East Wall
5.14a Real Big Kung Fu Sport 46ft 1.1. West Wall
5.14b Crack and Shatter Sport 82ft 1.1. West Wall
5.14c Perfection Project Sport 1.1. West Wall
? Unknown 2 Sport 1.2. East Wall
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