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Medlicott Area Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cormac Tooze Hard Landin' Brandon rick Gary K jeremy Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) Burns

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Medlicott Area 126 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
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A
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Seasonality

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 37.860493, -119.421374

access issues

As of 27/06/22:

-"A reservation will be required to drive into or through Yosemite National Park from May 20 through September 30, 2022, for those driving into the park between 6 am and 4 pm." (note this may occur through a in-park camping or accomodation permit or wilderness/bigwall permit), a permit is NOT required if entering the park outside of these hours. (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/reservations.htm )

-"As of May 2021, a wilderness permit is required for all overnight big wall climbs. During this pilot, wilderness permits for climbers are free and there are no quotas or limits on the number of permits available." (ref: https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingpermits.htm ). See previous link for details on picking up this permit.

inherited from Yosemite National Park

1.1. Medlicott Dome 91 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 37.858227, -119.422706

1.1.1. South Face 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Damsel Fly 5.11b Unknown
2 Yosemite Barking Toads 5.10a Unknown
3 Right 5.10b Unknown
4 South Face 5.8 Unknown
5 Monster Walk 5.8 Unknown

1.1.2. East 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Super Chicken 5.9 Trad
2 Scorpion 5.11b Unknown
3 Wailing Wall 5.11d Unknown
4 The Yawn 5.9 Unknown
5 Lighter Side 5.12b Unknown
6 Black Magic 5.11c Unknown
7 Omega Race 5.11c Unknown
8 Vapor Lock 5.11c Unknown
9 Slipstream 5.11c Unknown
10 Streamline 5.10a Unknown
11 West Face 5.8 Unknown
12 Fun House 5.7 Unknown
13 Shagadelic 5.8 Unknown 430ft

1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bitter Creek 5.8 Unknown
2 Bumps 5.10b Unknown
3 Blues in A 5.9 Unknown
4 The Middling 5.7 Unknown
5 Knuckle Ball 5.11c Unknown
6 Show Don't Tell 5.12c Unknown
7 Come and Get It 5.10b Unknown
8 The Coming 5.9 Unknown

1.1.4. White Line Fever Area 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Second Coming 5.10d Unknown
2 Breathing Hard 5.9 Unknown
3 Dik Me A Dog 5.11d Unknown
4 The Joystick 5.11a Unknown
5 Pilot's License

FA: Steve Schneider, Dimitri Bevc & Rich McDonald, 1987

5.11d Unknown
6 The Schneiderato 5.12c Unknown
7 The SS 5.11d Unknown

1.1.5. Center 44 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Two Cams Too Open 5.10d Unknown
2 Lone Ranger 5.11d Unknown
3 Material World 5.11c Unknown
4 Like A Virgin 5.10c Unknown
5 Get Into The Groove 5.11a Unknown
6 Live To Tell 5.11c Unknown
7 Follow Your Heart 5.11c Unknown
8 Playing With A Full Deck 5.10c Unknown
9 Royal Flush 5.12a Unknown
10 Space Rover 5.10d Unknown
11 Full House 5.11c Unknown
12 Dazed and Confused 5.11 Unknown
13 Hyper Space 5.10d Unknown
14 Chartres 5.9 Unknown
15 Priaprism 5.11d Unknown
16 Spellbound 5.12a Unknown
17 Shambles 5.11b Unknown
18 Woodward Finish 5.10b Unknown
19 Shipoopi! 5.12a Unknown
20 Slider-Banger 5.11d Unknown
21 Bachar/Yerian

Mini documentary Bachar-Yerian

FA: John Bachar & Dave Yerian, 1981

5.11c X Trad 5
22 Truth or Dare 5.12c Unknown
23 Living in Sin 5.12a Unknown
24 Bandaloop

FA: Steve Schneider

5.13a Unknown
25 Cat Spray 5.11d Unknown
26 Die Hard (Bachar Project) Unknown
27 Peace 5.13c Sport 250ft, 2
28 Pretty in Pink Point 5.12c Sport 2
29 15 Seconds of Fame 5.11a Sport
30 Big Time 5.11b Sport
31 Dress Rehearsal 5.11c Unknown
32 Lead Doll 5.11d Unknown
33 King of the Hill 5.12a Unknown
34 Shady Rest 5.10a Unknown
35 Hill Crest Drive 5.9 Unknown
36 Raging Waters 5.13c Unknown
37 Circus-Circus 5.13b Unknown
38 Shiner 5.11a Unknown
39 Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine 5.13b Unknown
40 The Winery 5.11a Unknown
41 Shell Shock 5.11c Unknown
42 Drinking Buddies 5.10c Unknown
43 Black Dahlia 5.12c Unknown
44 Guy Takes A Bomma Gusta 5.11c Unknown

1.1.6. Far West 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Swinger 5.11+ Unknown
2 You Asked For It 5.10 Unknown
3 Sweet Jesus

FA: Chris Vandiver & Tom Higgins

5.9 Unknown
4 One Toke Over the Line 5.10c Unknown
5 Ciebola 5.10b Unknown
6 Swiss Orange Chip 5.11c Unknown
7 The Castoff 5.11c Unknown
8 Ciebola Continuation 5.10b Unknown
9 Alien 5.11c Unknown
10 Wrinkle in Time 5.11a Unknown
11 The Kid 5.10b Unknown
12 The Pinhead 5.11b Unknown
13 Here's Johnny 5.10c Unknown
14 General Shortie 5.10d Unknown

1.2. Virgin Dome 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Virgin Killer 5.11a Unknown
2 Ho Charlie 5.10b Unknown
3 No Bones 5.11a Unknown
4 Virgin Testimony 5.11+ Unknown

1.3. Sticks and Stones 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Centinella 5.11d Unknown
2 Friends in High Places 5.11a Unknown
3 Slim Pickins 5.12a Unknown
4 Sticks and Stones 5.10a Unknown
5 Lost in Face 5.11 Unknown

1.4. West Farthing Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pieces of Eight 5.8 Unknown
2 Two Bits Worth 5.8 Unknown
3 Black Light 5.10b Unknown
4 Maniac's Maneuver 5.7 Unknown
5 Kryptonite 5.9 Unknown
6 Master Samwise 5.9 Unknown
7 Three Stooges 5.8 Unknown
8 Rock n' Rope 5.8 Unknown
9 Zephyr 5.7 Unknown
10 Save Out Soul 5.9 Unknown
11 Cop Out 5.8 Unknown

1.5. Dozier Dome 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Rock climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Easy Walk 5.6 Unknown
2 Repo Man 5.9 Unknown
3 Granite Garden 5.9 Unknown
4 Stir Crazy 5.8 Unknown
5 Holdless Horror 5.7 Unknown 400ft
6 Side Dish 5.8 Unknown
7 Out of Bounds 5.8 Unknown
8 Out of Gas 5.10d Unknown
9 Ursula 5.10c Unknown
10 Claim Jumper 5.12a Unknown
11 Angelic Upstart 5.11a Unknown
12 Tune Up 5.10a Unknown
13 After Thought 5.8 Unknown
14 Dozier Dihedral 5.9 Unknown
15 Erret Out 5.7 Unknown

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
5.6 Easy Walk Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.7 Fun House Unknown 1.1.2. East
The Middling Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Maniac's Maneuver Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Zephyr Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Erret Out Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Holdless Horror Unknown 400ft 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.8 Monster Walk Unknown 1.1.1. South Face
South Face Unknown 1.1.1. South Face
Shagadelic Unknown 430ft 1.1.2. East
West Face Unknown 1.1.2. East
Bitter Creek Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Cop Out Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Pieces of Eight Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Rock n' Rope Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Three Stooges Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Two Bits Worth Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
After Thought Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Out of Bounds Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Side Dish Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Stir Crazy Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.9 Super Chicken Trad 1.1.2. East
The Yawn Unknown 1.1.2. East
Blues in A Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
The Coming Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Breathing Hard Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
Chartres Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Hill Crest Drive Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Sweet Jesus Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Kryptonite Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Master Samwise Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Save Out Soul Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
Dozier Dihedral Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Granite Garden Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
Repo Man Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.10a Yosemite Barking Toads Unknown 1.1.1. South Face
Streamline Unknown 1.1.2. East
Shady Rest Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Sticks and Stones Unknown 1.3. Sticks and Stones
Tune Up Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.10b Right Unknown 1.1.1. South Face
Bumps Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Come and Get It Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Woodward Finish Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Ciebola Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Ciebola Continuation Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
The Kid Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Ho Charlie Unknown 1.2. Virgin Dome
Black Light Unknown 1.4. West Farthing Wall
5.10c Drinking Buddies Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Like A Virgin Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Playing With A Full Deck Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Here's Johnny Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
One Toke Over the Line Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Ursula Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.10 You Asked For It Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
5.10d Second Coming Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
Hyper Space Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Space Rover Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Two Cams Too Open Unknown 1.1.5. Center
General Shortie Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Out of Gas Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.11a The Joystick Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
15 Seconds of Fame Sport 1.1.5. Center
Get Into The Groove Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Shiner Unknown 1.1.5. Center
The Winery Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Wrinkle in Time Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
No Bones Unknown 1.2. Virgin Dome
Virgin Killer Unknown 1.2. Virgin Dome
Friends in High Places Unknown 1.3. Sticks and Stones
Angelic Upstart Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.11b Damsel Fly Unknown 1.1.1. South Face
Scorpion Unknown 1.1.2. East
Big Time Sport 1.1.5. Center
Shambles Unknown 1.1.5. Center
The Pinhead Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
5.11c Black Magic Unknown 1.1.2. East
Omega Race Unknown 1.1.2. East
Slipstream Unknown 1.1.2. East
Vapor Lock Unknown 1.1.2. East
Knuckle Ball Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
Dress Rehearsal Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Follow Your Heart Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Full House Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Guy Takes A Bomma Gusta Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Live To Tell Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Material World Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Shell Shock Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Alien Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Swiss Orange Chip Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
The Castoff Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
5.11c X Bachar/Yerian Trad 5 1.1.5. Center
5.11 Dazed and Confused Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Lost in Face Unknown 1.3. Sticks and Stones
5.11d Wailing Wall Unknown 1.1.2. East
Dik Me A Dog Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
Pilot's License Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
The SS Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
Cat Spray Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Lead Doll Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Lone Ranger Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Priaprism Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Slider-Banger Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Centinella Unknown 1.3. Sticks and Stones
5.11+ Swinger Unknown 1.1.6. Far West
Virgin Testimony Unknown 1.2. Virgin Dome
5.12a King of the Hill Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Living in Sin Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Royal Flush Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Shipoopi! Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Spellbound Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Slim Pickins Unknown 1.3. Sticks and Stones
Claim Jumper Unknown 1.5. Dozier Dome
5.12b Lighter Side Unknown 1.1.2. East
5.12c Show Don't Tell Unknown 1.1.3. Middling/Coming Area
The Schneiderato Unknown 1.1.4. White Line Fever Area
Black Dahlia Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Pretty in Pink Point Sport 2 1.1.5. Center
Truth or Dare Unknown 1.1.5. Center
5.13a Bandaloop Unknown 1.1.5. Center
5.13b Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine Unknown 1.1.5. Center
Circus-Circus Unknown 1.1.5. Center
5.13c Peace Sport 250ft, 2 1.1.5. Center
Raging Waters Unknown 1.1.5. Center
? Die Hard (Bachar Project) Unknown 1.1.5. Center
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