Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mon 13th Nov 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ El Corazón - with Sam | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
|
|||||||
Tue 24th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13a |
★★★ Freerider
- with
Jesse
1
5.10c
lead by
Jesse
2
5.11b
lead by
Jesse
3
5.10c
lead by
Jesse
4
5.11
lead by
Jesse
10
5.11c
lead by
Jesse
11
5.1
lead by
Jesse
12
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
15
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
16
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
21
5.11c
lead by
Jesse
23
5.11a
lead by
Jesse
24
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
26
5.12b
lead by
Jesse
29
5.11d
lead by
Jesse
31
5.10d
lead by
Jesse
| 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Ground up over seven days and then we camped on top and hiked down on the eighth day. We pre-hauled to Hollow Flake Ledge, took two rest days, and then went up the route. Some nice Germans fixed the lines off Heart to above the Hollow Flake for us so we didn’t climb those pitches on our pre-hauling day and preserved our ground up as much as we could. We also didn’t do the Free Blast before our ground up attempt which was cool and definitely added to the experience. I top roped the Monster because I got tired of whipping from the move into it all the way back into the Ear in the dark at 5am and then gave the reigns to Jesse who fired it and then I followed. I top roped the Enduros because we didn’t do them first go and I also took the stance at the no hands ledge on the move off heart. These are my asterisks, do with them what you will.
I will probably write something more when my brain and body decide to work again. Best thing i’ve ever done! |
|||||||
Fri 6th Oct 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with James Hurrey | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 29th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Jacob Kuchler | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 4th Sep 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Simon | 1000m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
4 days and 3 nights in the wall (el cap tower ->great, camp 4 ->crap, camp 6 -> super slippery) with prehauling to sickle ledge.
Amazing and exhausting experience!
|
|||||||
Tue 6th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Unfortunately didnt get a chance to get further than 6 pitches up the shnoz this season. Anthony and I did a 'dolt run' to practice speed climbing. I went with antons 'intermediate clove hitch' method of breaking up the death loop as opposed to the self belay because im not stoked about lead falling onto a device im wearing. The only sketchy moment was forgetting to undo one of the cloves and pulling a nut out from above. It was my only piece and i couldnt place above so i had to shimmy down and replace the nut. After that i just waited for tony to get up and put me on belay. Ultimately more research on this as well as the route itself would be needed for the holy 'niad'. A 3 or 4 day ascent might be a prerequisite.. Or 2 days with hammocks and only bars and drinking peoples piss off the wall to avoid hauling? Still stoked to get up on the 'best rock climb in the world' and look down the dawn wall with howling wind to juice up the exposure even more.
|
|||||||
Sun 4th Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
First lap I had one fall on the sixth pitch then onsighted the rest. Sent second time round. Felt flowy. Really enjoyed this
|
|||||||
5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - with shane | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
The Freeing ended after the freeblast then it turned into Aidrider !
Absolutely mega adventure and I feel like I learnt alot along the way.
Day 1, stuck behind an aid parties initially. But just climbed around them and their gear. Sent all of the free blast. Got the rope stuck twice on the half dollar. Then fixed to the hollow flake and slept on heart ledges. "The move" felt absolutely mingin. Day 2, hauling these pitches was exhausting. Then straight into the hollow flake. & it was just as terrifying as I thought it would be. Need Todo more othwidth climbing bumping two tipped number sixs leaving one and then another before questing 15m above them without any gear felt pretty out there. Then Shane threaded the anchor and started the downclimb taking two falls. Then when he climbed up further I threw the rope down for him to retie back in. Then he untied and I pulled the other line. And the sound I won't forget anytime soon. Metal rattling into the abyss. Shane "was that the six ?* ... " That was both of the sixs" Then we sat on the ledge contemplating if we could climb the rest of the route without any number sixs. Fixed the next two pitchs and stayed on the hollow flake Ledge that night. Day 3, onwards and upwards. Anxious about our position but psyched to be moving. The ear was something to experience. Sadly or happily we skipped the monster and aided the salathe. Made it to the alcove for lunch then climbed to the Spire and fixed two pitches above. Day 4, I think I slept a Total of one hour. Not sure why I decided to sleep on the slopping ledge ahaha. Boulder for breakfast. Such cool movement on this thing ! The crimp before the Gaston thumb move felt pretty spoogy. Gave the moves a few goes but didn't spend too long on it. Sewer pitch was filthy. Shane got the snorkel on for that. Sport lose flake pitch was pretty nerving but pretty sweet climbing. Boom enduro corner. Alot more sporty than it looks weird kneebar stuff and sick laybacking, final pitch of the day and the most exposed pitch of the climb. Wild traversing over the void. Day 5. Pretty dismal free climbing effort on this day ahaha. Those sliver jugs were just too good Frankly I felt pretty destroyed. & Was just happy to be on the summit !! |
|||||||
Thu 1st Jun 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Climbed free up to 11a, aid the rest. We bailed at pitch 9 because of a hand injury.
|
|||||||
Mon 29th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Henry Burt | 1000m | |||||
When Henry and I first arrived in Yosemite, my stoke to climb much of anything was pretty low. Our campsite in El Portal was 40 minutes out of the park and offered all the social life that retirees in rental RVs could dream of. Oppressive heat baked every wall, and day by day the Valley seemed more like a concentration camp for hoardes of ill-informed tourists than a climbing destination.
After being cited by park rangers on our third day of climbing I was ready to throw in the towel, and had Henry not been on this trip I probably would have. Nonetheless, the pile of aid gear we had both amassed beckoned to be used, and with some inspiration from Nick and Dave (and assurance there’s no rangers hiding in the stovelegs) we set off. I should note that both Henry and I wanted to climb pure alpine style, that is without fixing and hauling to Sickle. In hindsight our early arrival at El Cap Tower meant we could have done this, but on Nick’s advice we compromised by hauling every pitch (including Pine Line and first four) but fixing lines from Sickle and sleeping on the ground. Personally I think this is a big concession in style, but it possibly avoided an epic and got us ahead of the crowds, so I'm happy we did it. Day 1: Jug to Sickle. Henry led every pitch to arrive on El Cap Tower at 5:20pm. Day 2: Mini epic on the Texas flake. Originally Henry was to take the first block, but we swapped for me to lead this pitch. Didn’t die. Henry flashed the King Swing and I recovered from a pretty bad bonk to lead from Grey Bands to Camp 5. The Great Roof was seeping with slimy algae, which made backcleaning the entire thing (so that Henry could lower out) a pretty spicy experience. Day 3: Bit of a slow start while 4 all-star NIAD teams passed us. Triple-crowners Nick and Danford, Connor Herson, Tom Herbert, YOSAR rangers… we felt like the only gumbies on the wall! I led the wild bolt ladder clipping 3 bolts in the top 30 meters and we followed the final NIAD team down to the valley floor. Overall a pretty cool end to a pretty cool trip, and possibly my last log here. I've started to realise I'm not quite eloquent enough to express how I feel on bigger objectives in writing, and most often I simply don't want to. Back in Sydney in a bit |
|||||||
Sun 21st May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
El capihoofa!! Finally on the big stone.. The first couple hundred metres but still felt like a 4 year old in a candy shop up in the sea of rock. Bringing sunnies up there would be good beta. That white rock reflects light like snow. Insecure and exciting low angle climbing but never full cheesegrater potential (for me cos shane led the sketchy 5th pitch). An el cap adventure wouldnt have been complete without some french free.. which was the only reason i grabbed the draws instead of sending. We lay on the mammoth ledge top out at 1pm staring up at salathe wall with slack jaws for 20 min before beginning the descent. Getting to rap fixed lines down to the ground for a 5 minute descent to the cars is also a luxury i will miss.
|
|||||||
Fri 19th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Dave Burt | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 16th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Flashed NIAD 9 hours. First time climbing The Captain
|
|||||||
Thu 11th May 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Dolt run. Averaged 50 mins per pitch until stovelegs traffic slowed us. Learned how to aid in a tree the day before.
Goal was to keep up with 3 French wizards who overtook us on the footstool (both their seconds freeing everything to Dolt). Mission was kinda accomplished. |
|||||||
Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.10d ~5.10d |
★★★ The Nose
- with
Mitch Lindbeck
| 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1 and a half pitches.
|
|||||||
Mon 20th Feb 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Camilla Satte | 1000m | |||||
Mon 6th Feb 2023 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
| 1000m | |||||
Thu 1st Dec 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Sun 20th Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
| 1000m | |||||
Tue 15th Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 VI |
★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose)
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
| 880m | |||||
Sat 12th Nov 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
| 1000m | |||||
Thu 20th Oct 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
1
2
3
4
5
| 1000m | |||||
5.10b C2 | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Mon 10th Oct 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Sebastian fuller, Sebastian Fuller | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.6 C4 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ The Shield - with Grigri/SP | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Muir to the shield, rope solo aid faff sloth style. Clean (definately not hammerless). Wild.
Few days fixing to P6, then waited around for some replacement approachies that never arrived, 14 days on-wall, several days to get everything back down. Rack brought for Muir->Shield (clean) June 2022 Hooks: -2*talons (only used 1) -1*cliffhanger (only used 1) -2*Narrow cam hooks (only used 1) -1*micro, wide (not used) Pitons: -15 #3 peckers or equiv staight tomahawks (wouldn't have minded having 20, MVPs on the headwall) -2* #1 peckers -2 * #2 peckers -2 random size sawed angles (old booty, size unknown), would have been good to have a full set to use skeleton key style. Useful but probably not essential, only used twice, more #3 beaks likely more useful -Wall hammer -Mini hammer for nut cleaning on clean pitches -Funkness device (used for cleaning a few unnesessary fixed beaks) -Few random heads -No LAs -Few heads - brought but never used. Nuts: -1 set standard micro nuts (barely used) -2-3 sets offset brass nuts (clutch) -1 set peanuts (completely unused - would not bring) -About 1kg of offset alloy nuts - very helpful esp gold/blue Cams: -2*set of offset X4s (clutch, despite copping a lot of slack for the harder alloy found them pretty bomber in weird grooves within the SA scars) -1*Aliens black-green (didn't use much) -Triple totems set from black - grey (0.4 equiv), and mix totems/C4s triples to #3, double #4, double #5 (big gear most useful for the muir section, probably a bit over the top) Misc: -3-4 large Wire rivet hangers (never used) -> some of the micro/piano wire size wire rivet hangers may have been useful instead of 3mm nylon -Few meters of 3mm nylon cord (useful for a few of the old RURPs -Few meters of ?11/16th webbing for fixed gear -Few leaver biners (bootied a few, used a few) -Sharp knife for cleaning off some tat, honestly in some spots I wish I had a narrow head locking pliers for getting some mank tat off. -Didn't bring an adjustable spanner - many, many of the quicklinks and hangers were loooose (At least on the muir pitches). Crux aid pitches went clean as previous party placed a mashie at the bottom of the groove, without which would have been quite a challenge. Cleaned a bunch of tat (but theres still a lot that really needs the chop), and a few beaks from the headwall pitches that were taking up nice beak scars that should go fine hand placed. |
|||||||
Jun 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ Salathé Wall | 880m | |||||
Mon 14th Mar 2022 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with chase bailey | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
19h05
|
|||||||
Mon 1st Nov 2021 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b |
★★★ The Nose
- with
Rob Zipplies
1
5.13b
1028m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
| 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Bailed from Sickle Ledge after Rob injured his ankle. Unfinished business. Planning to go back for this one.
|
|||||||
Wed 20th Nov 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Jacopo Larcher | 1000m | |||||
Tue 29th Oct 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) - with davedave, Stubbsy | 880m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
My first route up the big stone! 4 days up wall plus fix and haul. I had heaps of fun getting super scare with good mates defiantly so keen for other routes on the wall!.
Cruxes of the route were the 5.7 no gear pitch! and just managing the logistics with the bags.
|
|||||||
Mon 7th Oct 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
I 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider - with running support for al iAD - 23hs 15mins approx | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Support ascent - FF'd by Al
|
|||||||
Wed 2nd Oct 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Andrew Godwin | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Realisation of a long term dream to climb El Cap. This was our second attempt after the aborted effort a week earlier. Cheated a little bit by jugging fixed lines to Sickle, thereby skipping the first four pitches that we had already climbed the first time. Hauled to Sickle on a warm day, then waited for the cold weather to blast off. I was questioning our strategy while jugging the fixed lines in the cold rain at 2 am, but it blew over and we had great sunny, cool conditions for the next four days. Lost about four hours on the traverse into the stove legs when I got the lead rope stuck in a lower out sling. Had to wait for a couple of slow Canadians behind us to catch up and free it. Other than that it was smooth sailing to the top. Only saw two other parties on the route. A couple of fast Swiss guys passed us at camp IV, and Thomas and Christoph the crazy Germans climbed behind us from the great roof to camp VI, then went in front the next day. The bivy on top was magic, made even better by the deep sense of satisfaction that came from finally achieving a multi-year goal.
|
|||||||
Fri 27th Sep 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 | ★★★ The Nose - with Jemma Herbert | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 24th Sep 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
dry jug run 3hrs.
|
|||||||
Sun 22nd Sep 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 5.8 C2 VI | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) - with rogue shitter, snapgate rogueshitter | 880m | Average | ||||
Pitch numbers per Sloan Topo 2019
Loose seige tactics - freeblast (blocks per SG/RS)
Separate prehaul and fix day up lines to mammoth (fixed lines ok..ish)
P11 - RS P12 - DD P13 - DD P14 - SG Bivy Gray Ledges (good) P15 - SG P16, 17 - DD (shortfix) P18 - SG (no pro - tension into ~5.6 climbing to crossroads.) P19 - SG Bivy Camp IV (v. average, recommend crossroads bivy+fix) some traffic delays P20 - RS P21, P22, P23 DD (shortfix) Bivy Camp V (ledge + hammock) P24 - fixed by SG P 25, 26 pitched DD (traffic) P27, P28, P29-30 - RS (Skipped 1.5" piece) Topout ~3-4pm with same day descent east ledges (fourth rap rope moderate coreshot) |
|||||||
Sat 21st Sep 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Andrew Godwin | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First attempt at the Nose. After climbing and hauling to sickle we waited a day before blasting off. Ended up behind a couple of other parties which slowed things down a lot. Bivied on Dolt first night. Ran into a traffic jam on top of the Boot Flake and had to wait ages, then struggled with the King Swing. Tried maybe 10 times before taking a bad swing back into the wall and injuring my hip and ankle. The party in front of us threw me a line so I could pull on to Eagle ledge. Spent a very uncomfortable night there. Climbed two more pitches the next day, but gave up due to pain in my hip. Rapped to Dolt that afternoon, spent the night, then rapped to the ground the next day.
|
|||||||
Fri 13th Sep 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C1 | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) - with Stubbsy | 400m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Total classic.
We climbed it in 12 hrs at 5.9 c1
lots of cool features stubbsy nailed the crux pitch only cheese grating a few times hahaha.
the half dollar is terrible to aid! Do it on a cool day as you get roasted in the sun! |
|||||||
Tue 11th Jun 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Brendo | 1000m | |||||
3d 2 nights on wall, night at top plus prefix and hauled to sickle.
|
|||||||
Sun 2nd Jun 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Did first pitch 10c
|
|||||||
Jun 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13c 5.13c/d | PreMuir - with Jacopo Larcher | ||||||
Tue 28th May 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.8 C2 5.8 C2 VI | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | |||||
Tue 8th Jan 2019 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12b C4 5.9 C4 VI | ★★★ Muir Wall (All Clean) - with Danny | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
First real big wall. Took 5 days! Combination of free an aid. Danny was the aid hero!
|
|||||||
Nov 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Oct 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.10b C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Sep 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ The Shield | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Wed 20th Jun 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 A3 5.7 A3 VI | ★ Magic Mushroom | 880m | |||||
Attempted with Alastair. Got 12 pitches up before retreating due to mental exhaustion.
|
|||||||
Sun 3rd Jun 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.7 A3 5.7 A3 VI | ★ Magic Mushroom | 880m | ★ Good | ||||
Bailed from pitch 16 after two days. Will dropped the portaledge midbar and I was psyched out after witnessing the two guys fall off Freeblast
|
|||||||
Wed 30th May 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12d 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider | 880m | |||||
Mostly free with Alastair and Audrey.
|
|||||||
Tue 29th May 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Super fun. In 9 hours with Dan.
|
|||||||
Thu 24th May 2018 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11d C1 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Incredible route, desperate slabs, hard offwidths and steep cracks. The freerider variation at the top is amazing. 5 days plus a day of hauling to Hollow Flake
|
|||||||
Dec 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ Salathé Wall - with Jonny Baker | 880m | |||||
5.14a | Magic Mushroom (free) - with Jacopo Larcher | 880m | |||||
5.14a | Magic Mushroom (free) - with Barbara Zangerl | 880m | |||||
Mon 16th Oct 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
A classic. Amazing finger locking in pin scars! To Triangle Ledge. New life goal - freeing the Salathe one day. Two falls on the crux pitch
|
|||||||
Sat 14th Oct 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 | ★★★ The Nose - with Jakob Kapelj | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Dedicated second on my first big wall. I'll have to come back and swing pitches, at least take all the C1's, on my next go.
|
|||||||
Tue 26th Sep 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.10c C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
3 days, 2 nights
|
|||||||
Fri 22nd Sep 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Kav, Magnus | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5 days. Nailed by a thunderstorm day 3. climbed through a snowstorm day 4. Got the adventure we were chasing!
|
|||||||
Mon 3rd Jul 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Epic. Lots of free climbing up to 5.9 and pancake flake 10a. Aided the harder pitches. First day just lead fix and haul to sickle. Day 2 up to el cap tower. Day 3 to camp V. Topped out next day at 4pm and in the valley by dusk. So psyched for NIAD next time!
|
|||||||
Tue 6th Jun 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Freerider - with Alex | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
No big deal
|
|||||||
Fri 28th Apr 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 VI |
★★★ The Nose
- with
mafalda
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
| 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 1st Jan 2017 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.14a 5.7 A3 VI | ★ Magic Mushroom | 880m | |||||
30pitches up to 5.14a
|
|||||||
Wed 19th Oct 2016 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Sun 1st Nov 2015 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Trent, Ronan | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
At it again because we love it so much. Went lighter than last time and made it to Camp 4 on day 1. Cruised through to Camp 6 on day 2 then meandered to the summit by lunchtime day 3.
Got to lead the Boot and Great Roof this time around with was pretty sweet. Definitely feeling more confident with this big wall thing second time around.
|
|||||||
Wed 21st Oct 2015 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 | ★★★ The Nose - with Trent, Olly | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Unbelievable!! Sieged it in a team of three with a heavy pig over three days.
Made it to El Cap Tower on Day 1 after jamming my way through the awesome stove legs cracks.
Day 2 we got held up a little on Texas flake before Olly smashed through the King swing and Trent led us through the Great Roof and up to Camp 5 in the dark.
Day 3 was just a mission to the top trying to avoid a bunch of NIAD teams. Topped out at about 8.30 and had an awesome summit party with a few of the other teams.
|
|||||||
Fri 9th Oct 2015 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
5.10c C1+ 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Stephen Varney | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
5.10c C1+ graded based on what I onsighted (though attempted to free up to 5.11c). Managed to climb free heaps of the route, with some french-free, and only a few pitches of actual aid, over 2.5 days hauling 45kgs. Reached pitch 21 on the first day after battling past a swarm of clueless climbers clogging up the lower pitches. So much immaculate rock and climbing in a stunning position, and at relatively tame grades. A dream come true! Pulling 5.10c over 1000m clean air... INSPIRING!
|
|||||||
Sat 26th Sep 2015 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Lead pitches 6 7 8.
|
|||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | |||||
Tried to do triple direct but didn't realize how small the gear was. Much thinner than the nose!
|
|||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with Hannah Bowey | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Lead and hauled each pitch. Fixed to Sickle, made it to dolt the second day before crashing for 2 hrs, then summed up the energy to get to El Cap Twr. Day three got a little held up but made it to the pitch below the great roof. Day 4 cruised the great roof in 45 mins and was at camp 6 by 3pm! Big wall chill time was great! Day 5 topped out by 12pm right beside Hans Florine doing his 100th ascent!
Rack-1 set x4 offsets, doubles in c4/x4 0.2 to #4. Triple red and #3. Set link cams. Offset nuts |
|||||||
Mon 18th May 2015 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with ut, Dan | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Not a bad little climb eh. I had to cheat through a few of the harder bits.
|
|||||||
Mon 3rd Nov 2014 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) (Freeblast) | 400m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 20th Jul 2014 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ Salathé Wall (Salathe Wall) - with James | 880m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 17th Jun 2014 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose - with James Flannigan | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Day 1, fixed to Sickle. Day 2 - Sickle to Stoveleg Crack. Day 3 - Stove to the top of the Boot. Day 4 - Bivied beside the Great Roof (Hans Floring passed us by!!!). Day 5 - started climbing at 3am and topped out at 11pm. Day 6, the 10 hour death march down the Yosemite Falls Trail. What an awesome climb, a year and a half of preparation for this to be my first big wall!
|
|||||||
Oct 2013 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12d 5.13a VI | ★★★ Freerider | 880m | |||||
Wed 25th Sep 2013 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Oct 2012 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13c 5.13c/d | PreMuir | ||||||
Oct 2011 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13a | Golden Gate | 1000m | |||||
First free female ascent
|
|||||||
Sat 6th Nov 2010 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11a A3 | ★★★ The Nose - with Sean Leary | 1000m | |||||
Speed record in 2h 36m 45s
|
|||||||
Tue 26th Oct 2010 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 A1 | ★★★ The Nose - with Kristian Brønstad | 1000m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 22nd Sep 2008 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.11b | ★★★ The Freeblast (1st 10 of Salathe) | 400m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
with Enga. Incredibly windy!!! Had started it in 2000 but got held up for 5 hrs!! Good to finish finally
|
|||||||
Fri 1st Aug 2008 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
A2 5.8 C2 VI | ★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | |||||
A3+ 5.9 A3+ VI | ★★★ The Shield | 880m | |||||
Mon 8th Oct 2007 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 A1 | ★★★ The Nose - with Thomas Huber | 1000m | |||||
Speed ascent in 2:45,45 hours
|
|||||||
Thu 4th Oct 2007 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 A1 | ★★★ The Nose - with Thomas Huber | 1000m | |||||
Speed ascent in 2:48,30 hours
|
|||||||
Wed 19th Sep 2007 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Aid; Made it up 5 pitches before weather rolled in.
|
|||||||
2007 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.12a A2 | ★★★ Nose - with Alexander Huber | 1000m | |||||
Speedrekord in 2:45:45 Stunden
|
|||||||
Thu 1st Jun 2006 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Salathe Wall | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
1st El Cap route, 5 days of rad climbing
|
|||||||
Sat 1st Oct 2005 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13c 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 21st Sep 2005 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★ Good | |||||
Pitches 1-19, bailed
|
|||||||
Thu 1st Sep 2005 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13c 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
Rope-gunned the first 2/3 (free or french-free). Followed the rest. Saw Tommy and Beth up there preparing for their free ascent.
|
|||||||
Thu 30th Jun 2005 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ Triple Direct (Salathe/Muir/Nose) | 880m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
My ninth El Cap route. El cap off the couch! I hadn't aided for 2 years and I hadn't hauled for 5!! I managed to lead all but 2 pitches and haul the whole thing. Teresa did really well although she thought i was trying to poison her with Bagels (this can't really be food can it?) I freed a lot up to 5.10 which was really fun, especially all of thepiches on the nose!! What an amazing route. 3 nights (with Teresa)
|
|||||||
Sat 2nd Oct 2004 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ||||||
Sun 29th Aug 2004 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Wed 26th May 2004 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.13b | ★★★ Salathe Wall | 880m | |||||
aided over 4 days
|
|||||||
Sat 1st May 2004 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Shield | 880m | ||||||
When your partner take 4 hours to lead the easiest aid pitch, sometimes its better to just go down. I did score a shiteload of gear off him though!
|
|||||||
2004 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
5.9 C2 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
all free
|
|||||||
5.13c 5.9 C2 VI | ★★★ The Nose | 1000m | |||||
obviously not at 13c
|
|||||||
Mon 27th Oct 2003 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
bailed
|
|||||||
Sun 26th Oct 2003 - Yosemite National Park | |||||||
Yosemite Valley El Capitan Southwest Face | |||||||
★★★ The Nose | 1000m | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Done over 4 days, some classic pitches mixed with some occasional horrible grovelling. Probably not as good as salathe but still awesome
|
Brittany, Victoria, and I jugged to Mammoth the night before to try and maximise our sleep then the next morning Adrian and Sam simuled to Mammoth and collected their pre-rigged belayers (Brittany and I (Victoria just came to hang out and talk shit bc she’s a legend)) and Sam and I started romping while Adrian and Brittany chilled on the ledge to give us some time to create a gap so Adrian could start his attempt without us being in the way. Pretty classic scenes on the big stone if you ask me.
Highlights included: - Listening to multiple Lorde albums in full - Jugging the Nietzsche chimney and being rewarded with a lie down on Babsi’s portaledge - Taking a whole bunch of fucked up pendulums cleaning Sam’s gear to save time (“should i lower out or just take the fall?” “nah you’ll be fine there’s nothing to hit just take the whip”) - Sam firing every pitch like an absolute machine with only one fall on the Beak Flake - Jugging with two back packs - Down aiding the end of the roof pitch because Sam forgot to back clean his gear and i couldn’t lower out and also did not want to take the 15mpendulum whipper into the Tower - Having a chorus of 10 or so people from different routes cheer Sam on as he sent the roof traverse as the sun finished setting - Arriving at the tower and being handed a cup of tea that had been made by Miska and her partner who sent Golden Gate - Honestly just the whole thing. Supporting your friends to achieve their dreams is the fucking coolest thing ever.
I won’t forget this day for a long while. Thanks Sam.