Ascents in Middle Brother

I linked pitches 1&2 which were fairly loose though safe if you are careful. Pitch 3 is super sustained and difficult but with good pro the whole way. We traversed too low on the 4th pitch which turned it from 5.9 to an 11- boulder problem after sustained overhanging hand jamming. The 5th pitch is amazing as is the last. Perhaps a forgotten Valley gem due to the rock fall?

had just enough gear for redirects to get a rope down the first two pitches from the deviations anchor. so good: full body wrestle in p1 (complete with gear sling for the full experience as I wanted to stitch the traverse up more) then bomber foot jam/calf lock + smear + forearm bar/butterfly shuffle for type 1 fun. keen to scramble around and lead p2 next time if I can get the gear together

enjoyable and cruisy on TR; problem section was fine as steep jam without gear/rope in the way or a ledge to think about

nervous on 5.9 part due to proximity to ground but got through it, then two slightly ledgy falls from steep 5.8 hands section: a fumbled downclimb retreat, then (probably sensibly) backing off trying it as a greasy layback without more gear or enough stability to bump gear. ankle was already a bit cranky; promised Cody the remainder could be stitched up and he kindly agreed to finish the lead with more gear

with Enga and Jean from YMS

My first roped solo aid. Slooow. Maybe ~1ft/min. C1 or C2? The tree at the base makes an excellent anchor.